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Yeah, I can understand your trepidation: once you start, you can't stop. :P
A mate of mine, AKA the forum's very own Nickosaurus was very successful with his design.
Marked it out first:
http://i.imgur.com/3HBT1AN.jpg?1
Rough cut with coping saw, well outside the lines:
http://i.imgur.com/zmzSmBY.jpg?1
Then 80 grit to shape:
http://i.imgur.com/UBdEUeh.jpg?1
After that you have the simple task of smoothing everything out, and sanding up to the appropriate grit for your finish. Viola. :)
Basswood isn't as nasty as some people says it is. I'm finding out myself that it's full of surprises. That kit has come up really nicely - the grain actually looks like it has some depth in it. Good stuff!
Btw - Leftys rule!
Thanks for the feedback, guys.
west0288 (& Nickosaurus): awesome! I haven't worked with maple before, so wasn't sure how much I could get away with.
Timsan: The surprises are hidden by the fluffy fibres - but lefties have had worse. ;-)
As a first build, I'm very pleased with it.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...8s-face_on.jpg
There is some very nice figure going on in that body..
Basswood can be either really boring or nicely figured, it is a timber that can really surprise you.
I have put together a few kits that after sanding I have gone Meh... but as soon as the first coat went on I have thought Holy crap on a cracker! check out the figure in that!
It appears that you have scored a really nice kit, and I will be following this build with interest :)
I agree DB , My SV-1 turned out to have some awsom grain in it too. But I'm looking forward to a super kit if you know what I mean ;)
Dude you scored one mean bit of maple on that kneck and by the looks ya making us proud.. Looks dam stunning .
man look at that kneck 8O
Yo Bird, don't fret about cutting the 'stock out. With your coping saw it'll be easy. Make sure the blade is sharp an d don't get too close to the line. Also - watch the degree of bend in the blade when you're getting into the tighter turns on the shape or it'll snap (from experience...). I found large slice across the diameter of the shape followed by triangle cuts in the tight spots worked best.
Was a trip to see my photos posted without me... haha! The third pic was just before the final shaping (had a few flat spots). 80-120 grit was plenty to shape the maple - it's really not that hard.
How did you apply the tru-oil? Fingers + thin coats? I'm tempted after seeing your results man. Looks wicked.
Nice job on the headstock, Brodie. I remember the first time I shaped the maple I was pretty apprehensive too, but I think it sands really well.
great start and another vote for lefties rule!
I haven't done much since my 6 July update due to "curing time" (me - not the guitar. :-( )
I've cut back the Tru-Oil finish on the body with 0000 steel wool to remove surface marks etc.; it's now a lot smoother and thinner than before. (Unfortunately, basswood is a ding magnet.)
I still haven't figured out how to get a perfect, final coat with Tru-Oil - but I think I'm closer to it than before.
Hey ozbird,
Personally, once I am at your stage I start with a light wet-sand every 2 coats, starting at 800 grit then working through 1200, 1500 and 2000. I just sand smooth enough so that I dont go through the last layer of oil (ie. not much sanding at all), then clean the sanding residue off with metho before resuming the coats. It makes for a smoother and smoother finish as you go. You can do a couple of rounds of one grit before moving to the next depending on how your finish is looking.
Hope this helps.
cheers,
Gav.