Tims Les Paul Spalty

Awesome... Realparts are about a 15 minute drive from my place. It's nice to know there's a local guy.

Got bored with sanding... ;) Decided to play around with headstock ideas.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...228_103517.jpg

Between using the wire brush and the sanding, most of the glue stains have come out. However there is one persistent stain in the cutaway that looks pretty embedded.

There's also some fill under the binding that stands out a bit, as well as a stain on the binding. I'll do the best I can with it, but it might have to become a "feature" of this guitar.

I'll validate that by saying I'm not after perfection - from the outset I've been after a playable guitar that looks nice, and a bit different. I can live with a flaw or two at the end of the day.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...228_105742.jpg

The problem with the 3-way switch:

I've done a rough diagram, looking into the switch cavity from the back of the guitar.

The outer circle is the main cavity for the switch.
The inner (smallest) circle is the hole that the switch goes through.
The middle circle is a rout that is (presumably) there so that the switch is a little closer to the surface so that more thread comes through to the top...
But for some reason none of the circles are centred.

That shaded area is a 1-2mm lip, that prevents the switch from seating properly. The rectangle represents the switch casing, and one corner of the casing is sitting on that lip, preventing it from sitting flush against the back of the cavity.




http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...28_152528s.jpg

mmmm, need to cut some timber, or will an angled toggle fit in?

The switch will fit if I leave off the second nut. There's enough thread for the jam nut on top of the Treble/Rhythm plate if I do it this way.

I might just go with this option, unless there's a compelling reason to have the other nut underneath the timber...

the two nuts act together to lock the timber between them, but if you don't get the top one loosening itself, then it's all good

Tim, be careful leaving the inner nut off. As Stan says the two nuts would normally act to clamp the timber between them so the load is taken on the threaded shaft. Leaving that nut off can see the top of the switch body stressed with the switch falling apart. I know because I've done it before and broken a switch...or two :(

Could you remove some of that shaded timber with a dremel tool or elongate the hole to get enough clearance perhaps?

I could... If I had one.

I might look into either a deep thread nut or maybe a switch with a longer thread/smaller housing. Jeez those Switchcraft components are bloody expensive.

Funds are incredibly tight at the moment. Once a couple of clients pay their outstanding invoices I will be able to buy a finish and get a decent rotary tool for future use. All I can do right now is continue sanding... probably not a bad thing, really..

Ok... I'm getting paranoid. How much sanding is enough?