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Yikes.... Tomorrow, can you post a good pic or two so I can see the offending item from a few angles?
I think I have a work around for you but I just need to see it more clearly.
Actually, could you email pics to me at dingobass@pitbullguitars.com please?
Yep, can do.
Here's some pics of the damage.
:(
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...k48-splits.JPG
Ray, if you think you have a faulty kit, we do have a pretty solid return policy. I can't quite tell how bad the problem is from the photos (considering you dropped it), but you shouldn't think that just because something costs $99 you have to accept something that's faulty. If you think you have received a product that shouldn't have left the factory or our warehouse, please say so and we will replace it.
Adam, thanks for the follow-up.
You probably remember I noticed the separation on delivery but thought it was superficial and (assuming a solid finish which would mask it) decided to accept the body.
As it turns out my cock-up has revealed that the flaw was much worse than I thought. Typically a knock like this shouldn't split the blocks - so there was definitely a risk of the body splitting sometime down the track.
I really appreciate your concern, however I will kick on with this one. Apart from anything else it will give us an opportunity to reinforce the veracity of BD's signature quote!
Really this event is probably a blessing in disguise. At least this way I can make a lasting repair then continue on with peace of mind.
In hindsight I probably should have done a twist and roll test on the suspect lamination in the first place - but no biggie.
I have sent some good pics to DB as well as onto the Thread, so I'm sure some good advice is on it's way.
Copy of the email I sent to Ray this morning.
Hi Ray,
I think that your best bet is to get some medium viscosity superglue from Stewmac.
It will come with some whip tips with a very fine nozzle.
Flood the gap with as much glue as possible and clamp it.
Next up, if you have a router cut a slot to clean up the damaged ares and cut a blank to fill it.
Superglue this in then sand it back to the correct profile.
You should end up with a repair that is stronger than the original join..
Cheers DB, certainly sounds like a good solid fix.
As I have already told DB I may go with a quick and nasty fix on this one. I was never expecting much from this kit, it's more of a test-run for future projects.
However if this was a more serious project then I am pretty sure that the DB fix would be the go.
Either way I'll post pics of the works.
Thanks again DB! (by god this Forum is good)
Let me preface this post by saying that what I have chosen to do a quick and nasty repair. Applicable in this case because I am finishing in Enamel, not a stain, and can accept speed over durability.
I have just finished re-bonding the split lamination and secured it using a skew-screw method.
The process I followed;
1/. Used a clamp to close the join tight and hold it in its home position.
2/. Made a series of 3-stage "angle" holes to allow me to use screws to hold the join closed and secure.
3/. Released the clamp and gently separated the split.
4/. Blew a slightly thinned bonding glue into the spilt using compressed air - gently.
5/. Reapplied the clamp and screwed the join shut.
Once dry I will clean up the drill holes and split, then fill them. So in about 36 hours I will be back to where I started.....
Here are some pics of the completed repair and I diagram of the 3 stage holes.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...skew-screw.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...t-and-shut.JPG
Body is stalled, so onto the neck and shaping the headstock.
Typical to my M.O. this will be a replica guitar, pre-CBS 60's Strat in this case.
I have a set of '62 reissue plans, so I have printed out the head from them to use as a template.
I am a fan of the jigsaw, used one for a long time and have become pretty good with it. However I know a lot of people are not and with good reason; it is very easy to get in a lot of trouble, very quickly, with a Jigsaw.
So to protect the timber from bruising I tape off and then draw the outline on the tape. When I cut I always leave a good 2mm of meat, means more sanding but significantly reduces the risk of tears.
I shape down by hand with 80 grit paper and a cork block, occasionally rolling the paper onto dowel for concave section. I use P80 Norton T423, which is actually a metal-work product, but excellent for shaping or rough profiling (but way to rough for anything else). Using a combination of with and against the grain strokes, but always finishing on a few with the grain passes.
Next will be some fine sanding with 240, then 320, then a pad, then a lighter pad....sanding, sanding, sanding....
However that's it for tonight. I have just been told to "stop playing with that guitar and get ready for the gig!".
Yes dear.....
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...ad-outline.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...-rough-cut.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...-Head-face.JPG
Nice work Ray!