1st DIY Build and never touched a guitar before, Terminology?

true Trevor, we do think we are touching on the copper shielding.

we, stupidly, have been rushing this build as we desperately need to start playing or we will lose interest and end up throwing the Bass in the Bin.

so, in our rush, we have ended up causing ourselves to take longer time to do the job if we had of taken our time and built this Bass properly, and carefully, in the first place.

the wiring is messy, usually we don't wire like this but we are not used to wiring and soldering in cavities, which is a big difference to wiring and soldering on our RC Rock Crawlers.

heya Trevor, we cleared up any concern with the copper shielding.

seems as though we have the same problem as others with the wrong wiring diagram being supplied by suppliers.

is there any way of knowing, as we are not a master guitar builder, how are we supposed to wire this Bass Guitar, the IB-5, with the parts supplied.

the wiring diagram that is wrong has been in place for a long time, why would this wrong build diagram still be supplied as the way to wire up this bass guitar.

Trevor, do you know of where we could perhaps find the PROPER wiring Diagram for our IB-5, or any wiring diagram for any guitar, is there such a place as we have been searching and we come up with nothing more than the wrong diagram.

thanks all, if maybe anyone...?

Hi L.U.

From what I can make out, the only errors on the Pitbull wiring diagram are:

1. Earth to jack connection - it should be the connection to the right of the "short hot wire connection" when viewed from the back of the plug (NOT the left as shown on the diagram!)

2. The first lugs on the volume pots should be soldered to back of those pots (those solder joints are not shown as a red dot). I would solder a very short link of wire from the lug to the back of the pot (rather than bend the lug!).

PS: I would normally do most of the soldering with the volume and tone pots out of the guitar. I use a small wooden board to keep the pots in place (see the link below). Place them in the cavity once finished. Then solder the pup and jack wires.

Wire harness Link: https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post203343

howdy TD.

your wiring looks pristine. very clear.

we are going to have to strip all our wiring and start from the beginning, following the way you have your wiring.

when the kit says that the wiring/soldering level is advanced, we thought this odd as the diagram showed very clearly how to wire the electronics. the only thing wring with this kit and the description of how to build this kit has been the wiring of the electronics, which is, as we see it, the most important part to do with building an electronic instrument

thanks again TD.

Don't follow my actual wiring, as that was for a FB-1 kit! It also has a 3-way switch (not shown) in the circuit. Follow the idea of doing the circuit out of the control cavity.

Still follow the Pitbull IB-5 wiring diagram from their website. Just switch the ground wire on the jack and solder the bent lugs onto the back of the volume pots. Everything else is fine!

Thanks TD,

but...

need to buy new pots. trying to bend the lugs to the back of the pots saw great damage as circuit board broke on both volume pots.

we are going to get someone to supply and fit the electronics as the Jack is also damaged beyond repair trying to remedy some work based on a dodgy wiring diagram.

thank you to whomever posted this Crap wiring diagram for the IB - 5 as this has cost us more than we were planning on with this Bass Guitar build.

thank you very much!

I have found that with wiring and finishing the best way of doing it quickly is to slow down.

I am dyslexic and prone to messing up wiring, so I do some things to help minimize the agony:

First, I draw out my wiring diagram using the the actual colors of the wires that my guitar/bass will be using. I try to use several colors to make it easy. One color for grounds. A separate "hot" color for each pickup. A third hot color for hot to the jack, etc. Once I have the diagram drawn in "living color", I post it here, and ask folks to take a look at it for accuracy. They have generally been kind about it ;-)

Since encountering my first one, I have avoided barrel jacks like the one that comes with your kit. If you must use one, I recommend splurging a little and getting a Switchcraft jack. They are not terribly expensive but they are much better than the ones with the kit.

Whether you use the one with the kit or a better one, test which lug is hot using a multimeter (on the ohm setting). When you plug a guitar cable into the jack, the hot lug should connect to the tip and only to the tip. If either of the other lugs connect to the tip, that would mean there is a grounding issue somewhere.

Most barrel jacks have three lugs. In your case, either of the other two (or both) can connect to the ground/earth.*

You don't have to bend the grounded lug on the volume pot. If you do bend it, do it gently and then solder it to the case. HOWEVER, I don't bend mine. I solder a small piece of tinned wire from the lug to the case. I find it tidier, I also find it easier to solder other connections to the wire rather than the case. It is also much easier to unsolder, if I ever have to do so.

Finally, I test all gournd/earths with the multimeter. I plug in a cable, with one lead of the multimeter touching the shaft. Strings, shielding tape and all ground points should show continuity. None of them should show continuity with the tip.

This won't completely eliminate making mistakes. I have made plenty of others! But it will minimize them ;-)

On cost: If you are happy with the quality of the kit hardware, consider asking Tim. I think he keeps some extras around and may be willing to send them at a good price.

You can't completely rely on charts. Most of the ones you see on the internet (Including the ones on the PB site are done by volunteers. Specifications are subject to change. Sometimes import-spec parts have lugs in a different place than US spec parts. Wiring colors change over time and brand.

Even so, I have seldom seen a wiring problem here (in particular a couple of mine!) that someone here could not disentangle. Just takes a little patience.


*The "barrel lug" is used as an on-off switch with many active electronics basses and guitars. These guitars have a battery operated preamp. The battery ground wire is connected to the "battery lug" so that when the player plugs in the guitar cable, the preamp is turned on by grounding the battery. The preamp is turned off by disconnecting the ground when the cable is removed from jack. So both the "ground" and the "battery" lugs connect to the shaft of your guitar cable.

howdy all.
we have finally got our 5 string IB - 5 Bass guitar back from the shop who worked on the wiring and supply of pots and TR barrel for our bass due to incorrect wiring diagram provided.
hope the photos help. we could not get any clearer at this stage but is under an uncovered light at nite time, so the best we can get in these light conditions.
will try tomorrow to get better pics during the daylight.
the bass does sound good, but these are not the original supplied electronics and with an expensive 40 watt amp, only on half volume though.
when we see the wiring, it is not difficult, just don't follow the diagram supplied.

:) :rolleyes: ;) :D

Glad you got it working! Looks like a nice, tidy soldering job. Can't tell well from the pics, but it looks to me like the nut on the barrel jack needs to be tightened down a bit more. Also curious why there is no shielding under the pots? Since the pots are grounded it probably won't make any difference, but usually the case of the pot touches the shield when the nut gets tightened down.

FWIW Most of the wiring diagrams were developed years ago. The one you are referring to is 11 years old. As the website notes, they were mostly drawn by a member (aka a volunteer). If you take a look on-line you'll see that different barrel jacks configure their lugs differently. Same thing happens with switches. The diagrams are offered as advice, not gospel, so it's generally a good idea to test the parts before soldering.

These charts predate the new owner, and they are generally helpful, but one still needs to test to make sure that the parts are spec'd correctly. If anything is not as it should be, my experience has been that PitBull does a good job of rectifying the issue, including sending out new parts. That said, wiring colors, switch and jack lugs are subject to slight variations over time. Members on the forum are often aware of them as in this case, which is why it's good to ask here.

The chart in question, actually looks pretty good to me, and may have been correct for the jack that came with kits back in 2014. That said, if one follows this diagram exactly, the only error I see is at the jack, and would have just required unsoldering and and resoldering one of the connections on the jack. The pots actually look right in the diagram to me...unless I am missing something?

In my time I have FUBAR'd plenty of electronic components, particularly in the beginning, and still any time I get in a rush. Usually I do what you did, and get some new parts. But for those fortunate enough to live in Australia, Tim has offered to help with parts if asked.