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It sure is.
I've checked the neck itself - it has the slightest convex curve which as I understand it is fine. I haven't tightened the nut at the head end yet, is the best time to do that is when the strings are on it?
I'm going to do the pre-wiring today as that's something I've had a lot of experience in and can do as the coats of paint begin to land on it :)
I read through, but I am a little confused about whether you did a fret-leveling? Typically when you do that the neck should be perfectly flat. To check the flatness I use a straight edge with notches. I bought one for guitar for $10, but I have also made them for basses from an aluminum straight edge.
Attachment 45332
It should not be concave or convex. So much for the question you did not ask ;-)
To answer the question you did ask, yes, you need to have the strings on, and the guitar tuned to do the truss rod adjustment. If the neck is flat the string tension will pull it to slightly concave from string tension. Doesn't matter, at that point, whether it is a little convex or concave because you'll be adjusting it to get it where it needs to be.
I have an engineers rule that I notched with an angry grinder to check the neck for straightness, a stanley knife blade for a fret rocker and a metal spirit level with a machined face for a sanding bar, I run a strip of blue masking tape down the machined face and then super glue the abrasive material to that.
Does the job admirably, quicker and much cheaper to obtain than buying from the likes of Stewmac.
All available from the shed that should not be mentioned
Hi there fender3x :)
I followed the instructions that said to check if the neck is concave or convex. If widely out of whack, and certainly for concave, it might need to be nut-tightened to get it fairly flat before checking the frets to see if any are proud.
My neck was ever so slightly convex which I think is fine, and once the strings are on and tightened it levels it out a bit more.
When I did the fret-levelling I found a couple that were a touch high but gentle work and they're level with the others now.
I also did the 2 E-strings check where you put these on (bridge etc just temporarily on too) to ensure they ran nice and parallel to the neck (they did)
I had a mongrel steel straight edge, a purple sharpie pen, some 400 sandpaper... and a pair of aging old eyes hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by dave.king1
I think quite a few of us have those :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Barno
I'm ready now to get stuck into the painting. Very exciting. I know this will take a while but I'm prepared to put in the effort. (My plan = 3 coats primer, 3 coats top, 3-5 coats clear)
I'm liking a dark-grey-hammered look spray paint, and I've put the first primer coat on (I sanded all over to 400, then gave the front a light 800 sandpaper). I've used the hammer effect spray before, it's very nice. It needs a nice smooth base to work properly on. Hopefully the clear top coats and in-between sanding won't ruin the hammered eff
The first coat of grey primer feels a bit odd. 24 hours of drying later, I thought it would be pretty smooth, to be honest. It feels a bit gritty, almost dusty. I did it in the garage, with no wind or air circulating. Even remembered to move the car outside first. I shook the can for 3 minutes to start with, and it is definitely suitable for wood.
Has anyone come across this? I'm surprised it's like this, maybe that's how primer goes?
I'm thinking it will get 3 coats (coat 1, dry 24hours, light sand, coat 2, 24 h, etc)
I've posted some pics. Any thoughts, most welcome.
Thanks!Attachment 45335Attachment 45336Attachment 45337
I have only used "rattle cans" a couple of times. But I recall Forum members talking about spraying a dust coat (as a check for flat surfaces!), where the can is held too far from the body being painted - resulting in the paint drops drying before they hit the body. I would try holding the can a bit closer to the body while spraying to get a wetter coat. My 2 cents!
Sounds feasible - I'll give it a light sand today and a closer coat tomorrow when the weather nears 20 deg.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor Davies
Happy to spend a bit more time getting it right now so it looks half-decent later on!!
thanks Trevor
I have had the dust/pebble effect before. As TD said, could be distance. Could also happen when it's really hot and/or dry out. Either way it's generally caused by some of the paint drying before hitting the surface. You could try getting closer. I'd also check the temperature ranges it's supposed to be painted in, and if it cares about humidity.
It may not matter with a primer coat, since you may not care much what it looks like once you sand flat. With a color coat I have had decent luck with MTN 94 spray paints. I have gotten the dust effects or occasional blotches when the nozzle gets a little old, but they have sanded out well. I am not sure what a hammered look spray paint looks like--although I am looking forward to seeing one here ;-) The primer I had pebbles with was Duplicolor. Although it sanded out well, I no longer use Duplicolor because the colored spray paint does not react well to the heat and humidity of the place I live. The primer did fine though.