There's likely more that I don't know about paint than what I do know, but I'd be dubious about putting a water based poly over a solvent based (acetone, toluene, xylene) colour coat.Quote:
A water borne poly would be compatible.
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There's likely more that I don't know about paint than what I do know, but I'd be dubious about putting a water based poly over a solvent based (acetone, toluene, xylene) colour coat.Quote:
A water borne poly would be compatible.
Depends on the poly. There is a difference between water based and water borne. Over base coat there is a certain amount of key which give a mechanical bond. Then it comes down to the resin. Water borne systems are not thinned with water but a mix of polar organic solvents (acetone is in that category, toluene and xylene are non polar solvents).Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Thank you both for trying to keep me out of trouble, here. And Rabbit, I am so happy to hear from someone who knows something about this paint. I found it by accident, and tried it as a lark. Looks pretty good, though. I added a final coat, and emptied the can right down to the last rattle.
As for top coat. The colorshift paint can says clean-up with xylene or mineral spirits. The Minwax Wipe-On Poly can says clean-up with mineral spirits or paint thinner. Potentially not much different, and all non-polar solvents. So intuitively, it seems I should be OK. ? But I would cheerfully defer to wiser heads. If you still see a compatibility problem, can you suggest an alternative clearcoat? Thanks agian.
XP, is the paint you used Rustoleum by any chance?
It's a shame you don't have any spare to do some tests on scrap wood. The Minwax poly is an oil based product, and Rustoleum (if that's what you had) is solvent based acrylic enamel (TTBOMK) which is a variant of acrylic lacquer.
I know rabbit is a (or was) a chemist, and maybe I'm just over-cautious/old-school, but I wouldn't put poly over the colour shift without testing first. I personally think it's asking for trouble.
XP: I'd steer clear ox xylene, it's nasty stuff. Stick to mineral spirits (or turps as we call it in Oz). The colour shift paints were originally developed by House of Kolor, and in Oz, went for about $1000/quart. I use a water borne system made by Createx. Whilst they do have their own clear, which also double as an adhesion primer on plastics, their base coats are designed to also be cleared with 2k poly for automotive applications.
McCreed: If the resin system is acrylic, then a water borne poly would be fine, but a solvent based poly could cause problems, and an acrylic clear would be the way to go. If in doubt , your suggestion of testing first is sound. It also gives you a chance to see how it lays down when sprayed, and experiment to get the best results before committing to an instrument.
Well, I hope we will stay with this until we get a solution. The paint is indeed Rusteoleum. And between fixing mistakes and struggling to get an even coat, I milked 'er pretty dry. But I think there are some smooth enough spots in the pickup routs to do some tests on. I'll try the wipe-on poly there.
Rabbit, I have been trying to find a water-bourne finish without much apparent luck. Createx products seem to be available here in the northern hemi, but both the Createx 5620 acrylic and Wicked Color acrylic are water based. Minwax also has a water-based wipe-on polyacrylic. StewMac offers a whiz-bang guitar clear coat, several cans are needed and I am not willing to drop $150 to finish this project. A little further guidance, please? Thanks again to both.
XP: Since the base coat is Rustolium, ideally you would use their clear. The createx stuff is designed for spraying. The clear you would use is either the 4050 UVLS gloss or 4053 UVLS high gloss thinned with 10% 4011 reducer. The thing that freaks most people out is that the clear is a milky white. Createx have info on their YouTube channel. Their products should be easy to get for you, they are manufactured in the US.
Many thanks again, Rabbit. I have treated a couple of painted surfaces in the pick-up cavities with the Minwax Wipe-on Poly, and they dried hard with no evidence of peeling or bubbling, so I might have been alright. But I will take your advice and clear coat with Rustoleum.
Neck is pretty well done with about 30 coats of TruOil. Not the best job I have done and the water-slide decal on the headstock did not go on as smoothly as I'd wished. But it has a pretty good feel, and that's most important.
Well, still alive up here after shoulder re-hab and a couple of trips. For a clearcoat over the Rusteoleum ColorShift, the paint store dude recommended Krylon Fusion All-in-One Clear Gloss. "No runs, No drips, No errors." I got 8 to 10 coats out of the can, and hope that is enough. It sat for a week to harden, and tonight I started with Meguair's Ultimate. A couple of treatments with the rubbing compd, and I'll top it off with Meguiar's wax, and start assembly. I'm going to get this thing done. Stand by.
I hope your rehab has been going well! Can't wait for the final assembly.