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robsmith is talking about using the predrilled holes in the body to mark out and drill the holes required in the heel of the neck.Quote:
Originally Posted by craig747400
TTBOMK none of the kits come with holes in the heel predrilled. He also reiterates what I posted about appropriately enlarging the mounting holes in the body to allow the screws to pass through without resistance.
Picture tells a thousand words.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
https://i.imgur.com/ararhiU.jpg
Sorry, I stand corrected. That's the first time I've seen that.
Hopefully they've been drilled correctly.
McCreed - You're not the only one that hopes those holes are in the right place. I've heard first hand the mutterings from someone who found that kit drilled holes were neither the right distance from the nut, nor on the right spacing for the pre-drilled holes in the body, and were also clearance diameter for the screws. You can imagine the utterances and the amount of work needed to resolve the problems - basically carefully enlarge the neck holes, plug them with hardwood dowels then drill them in the right places. I only got involved in the job because I have a small pillar drill which was essential for this job.
(nb.This was not a PBG kit, but from a no brand source on the internet, which "vanished" as soon as questions were asked....)
Agreed, though I'd be surprised if they are. I find that necks usually need the corners of the heel rounded off to make them seat in the pocket nicely. If that's the case here, then even if the neck holes were drilled to match the body, they'll end up in the wrong place.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
It's not such a big deal to drill and dowel the holes in the body - I tend to do it as a matter of course so that I can get better alignment, and make sure that the neck plate is square. I haven't had to do this for the neck, as none of my necks have come pre-drilled.
I have done the plug & redrill with neck heels, and it's not any more work or difficulty than doing the body holes. However a drill press makes that sort of job easier (which I'm fortunate to have).Quote:
Originally Posted by jonwhitear
Supplies have arrived whilst I was in London town. Still awaiting my ferrules.
https://i.imgur.com/Mhr7kwr.jpg
50th birthday gift.
https://i.imgur.com/Rl03B6W.jpg
Cat loved the gift box.
https://i.imgur.com/3RgPnFs.jpg
PS: her name is Polly, because she is the colour of Polly Waffle, chocolate, marshmallow and wafer. ;)
I measured my JV Strat, to get the scale length/saddle positions as a reference. Confirmed: low E = 652mm, high E = 648mm.
https://i.imgur.com/nibAvzP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/miry4Co.jpg
Note to self: the saddle screws of the aftermarket items, were significantly shorter than the screws in the kit’s bridge, so they are not a direct swap. The screws are the same thread, so I swapped the kit’s screws into the new brass saddles. The wrong length screws would muck-up the intonation if they were swapped later on.
https://i.imgur.com/C5NVIXH.jpg
Installed the neck. At first, it did not sit flush in the neck pocket. Luckily for me, the factory holes were drilled ok, but I had to apply a bit of pressure to the neck (holding it in place) as my Dad screwed it in for me. With the neck lined up, I can be happy to find the bridge position.
https://i.imgur.com/jhqYU4Z.jpg
Finding the bridge position.
I installed the high and low E string tuners. Then screwed a small screw into the strap pin’s position at the base of the body. Using upholstery thread (thin, but strong enough to hold some tension), I set up a jig-like arrangement to move the bridge around til I found the correct spot. Passing the thread across the nut, over the saddles, through the string holes to the base of the body and back up to the tuner again. Edit: strong fishing line would probably work, too.
https://i.imgur.com/wkhJnvL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/x2rShvv.jpg