I think you should incorporate a real steel edge on there!Quote:
Originally Posted by dozymuppet
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I think you should incorporate a real steel edge on there!Quote:
Originally Posted by dozymuppet
Hi Dozy,Quote:
Originally Posted by dozymuppet
the paulownia is very soft. The actual edge for the axe blade is quite rounded and about 1.5 cm thick at minimum. I will have to take care with it though.
My jigsaw will not cut it!Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
That thickness should be ok then, I think. But yeah, I did think the same thing about reinforcing it :)
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You don't need no stinkin' jigsaw... forge it in fire and hammer it out the way manly men used to do it!Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor Davies
You could use a groove bit from a tongue and groove router bit on the blade and a tongue bit on a piece of Spotted Gum (near enough to steel) and glue on Spotted Gum to reinforce the edge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor Davies
Ummmh, my forge is broken.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
An application or two of thin CA glue could help strengthen the wood. There are also thin strengthening epoxies available that are used in boat building (amongst other things).
I’d also start thinking about a suitable stand for it, which may not be easy to find as it’s so off-centred. I’d definitely fit a strap button to the end of the blade as well as the end of the main body, so that you can at least stand it upright on the floor.
Today I made some router templates for the neck pocket and pickup cavities. Routed the neck pocket and fitted the neck.
Cut the top horn of the body. Measured scale length and put the bridge in place. Routed the pup cavities and drilled holes from the routes to the electronics cavity.
Next I will put on sanding sealer for the body and neck.
Thin CA sounds worthwhile. As for a stand, I have a few wall hooks. Thanks for the heads-up - I will need to give it some thought.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden