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Nice work.
What's you dilution ratio with the golden teak?
I'm wanting a similar tone (maybe just a tad lighter) on the neck I'm currently doing. I did some experimenting yesterday but haven't quite hit the mark.
A secret recipe would be appreciated :o
It is fantastic...even better with Tru Oil. That stuff finds figure in wood where none could be seen....and is why I have so many issues in the past with bursts....I love the stuff and what it shows hidden in the wood.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
McCreed,Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Honestly, I use it as it comes out of the bottle. I shake it up pretty heavily......do the neck prep as I mentioned. I then wipe on one coat and check everywhere as I go over it a couple of times to ensure complete coverage. I do not let it dry and come back for more. I get one shot....I have found that works best.....as multiple coats goes way too dark.
The application of stain/dye is where I got my thing with fabric and a cotton wool ball. I get a controlled even coat that does not drip nor blob in places I don't wish it to. I use about a 4 x 4 cm piece of cotton T shirt with a single cotton ball inside. I then crumbled it up like a poor mans shellac applicator.
I think the back of the neck in this case is just right.....but as the frets got in the way from about 12th down the colour is a little darker.
The Tru Oil does make it an Amber to Caramel colour. I find the Golden Teak a better result than the Yellow from U-Beat Stains, and not as deep caramel as Vintage Amber from Colortone.
The Golden Teak reeks of Alcohol....so I suppose you could cut it with metho. If you intend to do more than one coat I would suggest cutting it by the number of coats...e.g. 50/50 for 2 coats....as it gets dark pretty quick.
Also, the one coat method is heavily effected by sanding etc later on....so ensure you have coverage with your finish done well. I have sanded through it on more than one occasion.
I am sorry that there is no more info for you.
Thanks Ozz.
You are correct about the FW Prooftint in that it is alcohol based (which is weird to me because you can tint oil-based poly with it just fine).
In my testing I have been diluting with metho as you suggested (and recommended by FW). I played around with the mix again to day and came up with a tone I think I can live with. I may whack some Tru Oil over it before spraying my satin poly though.
I tried using it neat (on a earlier neck) and wasn't totally wrapped in that colour even with just one coat. I thought it was way too orange, but it suited the project so it wasn't so bad in the end.
I guess I will have to continue experimenting. I know the FW Golden Teak is widely used here, but I've yet to replicate what I have seen others achieve. Thanks for your info.
I think the secret is the Tru Oil. I do two coats and then look to see if a third is needed. I find that it is dulled to a bright honey colour.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Spray poly you say....in a can like me...or have you taken the air compressor and gun step?
I have an Aldi compressor I have upgraded, adjusted and it runs great and keeps a consistent pressure. I just have never been game to use a gun....any hints if you have?
I've been using guns and an airbrush for a couple of years now, and in that time have determined I don't like lacquered necks. So I started spraying my poly.Quote:
Spray poly you say....in a can like me...or have you taken the air compressor and gun step?
I have an Aldi compressor I have upgraded, adjusted and it runs great and keeps a consistent pressure. I just have never been game to use a gun....any hints if you have?
Initially with just the airbrush, which gave me good results but still required lots of coats. It gives better/quicker build than wipe-on poly or Tru Oil does but would still take me up to several days to get the build-up to where I wanted it.
I then got a terrific little touch-up gun (Star .8mm) and this is just what I needed. I can do a neck over the course one day (conditions and time allowing). This has worked out to be 3-5 coats inside of an hour; dry for 1.5 hours; repeat 2 more times (3 sessions total). Done.
Let dry for 10-14 days for gloss to wet sand/polish, but satin is now my preferred finish, so 7-10 days and I'll attach it to the body.
I also have a larger gun (1.4 - 2.0mm w/ 600ml cup) that I have continued to use on bodies and also just with acrylic lacquer (which I do like on a body).
The touch-up gun is literally just a miniature of the big one. It has complete adjustment/control of fluid and air/pattern, where as the airbrush has a single circular pattern and only fluid flow adjustment (air can be adjusted by the regulator, but not fine tuned so to speak).
I'll always keep the airbrush around as it's still handy for some smaller jobs (eg: headstock touch-up after a repair) and I'm going to try the touch-up gun on full body some time. I think it will be more than fine. I don't see going back to rattle cans any time.
THIS is the touch-up gun I have. There are more expensive (higher quality) ones, but not spraying everyday or doing entire car bodies, it's perfect for performance and value IMO.
McCreed,
Your information is much appreciated. I too, by a process of elimination and time have come to polyurethane as my finish of choice. I still do my oils and wax finishes, and I use satin poly on headstocks for decal adhesion and coverage.
I spend $20 a can at the moment and it just disappears.
Thanks.
Prezactly! One of my motivating factors for switching to compressor & guns was materials costs. I can buy a 250ml can of Cabot's and it will last me months.Quote:
I spend $20 a can at the moment and it just disappears.
I realise it may be a false economy with the outlay for the equipment, but there are a number of other advantages to having the gear that are well worth the expense IMO. It also opens up limitless possibilities for colour choice rather than what is offered with off-the-shelf spray cans.
Waz,Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Do you just use a normal house painting trim style paint brush from the "BGS"?
Do they clean up with turps? How many coats with this method do you do?
Why I ask? I have ordered an Ash P Bass kit and I want to try the red/orange/yellow style of burst on the kit and the headstock front face.
Hi Ozzie,
Cheapie 1" to 2" brushes from BGSFOS which can be cleaned up in turps.
I tended to use mostly cheapest 1" and throw them after 2 coats.
Cheers Waz
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