@HereIsJT and Simon
We live and learn. Well the smart ones do, while on the other hand I have launched straight back into doing the same thing again. LOL.
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@HereIsJT and Simon
We live and learn. Well the smart ones do, while on the other hand I have launched straight back into doing the same thing again. LOL.
Silly question.
Couldnt you just empty a tube of CA glue down the crack?
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That would be my silly question also...it's just a crack.Quote:
Originally Posted by OliSam
cheers, Mark.
@Sam and Mark,
Those photos were showing just part of the split. It went a bit further than that.
And it tended to get considerably worse when I stuck a chisel in there and bashed it with a hammer and then threw off the back landing. LOL
Needless to say I doubt that it can be restored now.
cheers guys
rob
Ah we have the luthier's Nick Kyrgios in our midst...hammer abuse hehe.Quote:
Originally Posted by robin
cheers, Mark.
You could, but the force that causes the crack is still there, so the most likely scenario is it would just crack again down the next plyQuote:
Originally Posted by OliSam
The pattern of the end grain should indicate how likely the wood is to warp and the direction it will curve. If it’s almost straight, then you should get minimal warpage as it dries/seasons further. If it’s a deep C-shape pattern, then differential shrinkage between the growth rings will pull it further into that C-shape IIRC. Just coming back to me from something I saw or read a few years ago. Some if your pine looks pretty flat grained and some looks pretty curved. A more careful or fortuitous selection of the planks used and you would probably have been OK. Something to consider for the future.
@Mark
In my defense I actually used my home made wooden mallet, so not actually "hammer abuse". LOL
@Jim
That was my thinking also
@Simon
I have had a good run with these laminate bodies to date and I think I had grown a bit complacent with my pine selection. I think this body was a timely reminder to pick up my game. I bought some more pine and ply and went through quite a few sheets looking for the best pieces.
I have already cut out and glued a replacement body but this time took more care in orientating the pine to hopefully reduce the odds of this happening again. Time will tell.
Thanks guys
rob
OK, I've started shaping the new body while it is still in one piece. Although I am aiming for a very traditional LP Jnr front the back will be shaped a bit for comfort. All my practice is done sitting down so theses mods are primarily to make it more comfortable when seated.
I intend to stain the guitar with a very traditional Jnr type burst so I am hoping that all of the cuts in the back will be camouflaged by the darker outer stain.
Attachment 38233
I'm trying to avoid the traditional Fender style belly cut.
Attachment 38234
Not a very good shot but here you can just make out what I call a "Lap" cut in front of the control cavity.
Attachment 38235
I have also included a cutaway for better access to the "dusty" end of the fretboard.
Attachment 38236
The Lap cut and cutaway and the bits I used to drill the neck ferrule holes.
Attachment 38237
The Neck ferrule holes in a bit more detail. They are still a bit rough due to crappy bits but they should clean up to a respectable standard.
Tomorrow I hope to drill the bridge posts and then start staining.
Cheers
rob
Yep!!! Me too!!Quote:
Originally Posted by colin2121
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