https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1d8a62c968.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by king casey
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Here are my high and low E’s mate.
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1d8a62c968.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by king casey
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b5298d5847.jpg
Here are my high and low E’s mate.
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Why are you using timber mate if you're using a binder? Seems to be some weird methods on the forums I think people don't understand how to use products correctly, may be why there not getting a great finish
Apart from Timbermate the rest are simply thought bubbles being kicked around in an attempt to attract some positive approach.Quote:
Originally Posted by phrozin
I'm already aware of your disdain for Timbermate, but I'm only using it to highlight the grain.
cheers, Mark.
I think j know what you mean. I didnt use a sealer. As i think the timbermate is a sealer anyway?Quote:
Originally Posted by phrozin
So i just used timbermate and put tru oil over the top of it.
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Thanks Oli. So that looks like 611.5mm to me. So a tad over the 24".Quote:
Originally Posted by OliSam
cheers, Mark.
Youre very welcome.Quote:
Originally Posted by king casey
I took the measurement as 613.5mm but i think that if you just move the bridge 2mm back you wont get the spring squash or the saddle screw pressing against the string as the saddle is drawn backward for intonation.
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There's nothing wrong with timber mate if it's used correctly not to make the grain stand out its more for a spot repair and definitely not used to grain fill under a painted finish it swells up like a bloon because it suck the reducer and up it goes, using Tru oil, wipe on Polly or anything else they are no different to any other topcoat, the best finish you get is determined by how well you get the base, you don't need a grain filler if you're using a binder you use a stain if you want to make the grain stand out, a Tru oil finish is really nice if it's done right, it's got nothing to do with positivity it's about doing it correctly.Quote:
Originally Posted by king casey
You can take advice or ignore it that's up to you I did my apprenticeship as a furniture polisher I spent 4 years doing that and another 6 years doing furniture with kerby furniture before they shut down and I moved on to automotive refinisher where I was doing that for 25 years until I broke my back in 2014 and now in a wheelchair, personally I'm not a fan of those sorts of finishers on a guitar that's not because I don't know how to, everyone has there thing, but I'll all ways tell it as I see it, from what I read and see some Tru oil finishes have been terrible and that's not because of anything except except not knowing how to do it I didn't mention anyone's name. I wasn't having a go at you Mark you've done some nice ones neither do I think you're a beginner I actually concider you one of my forum mates, I'm not really sure why your so triggered, now you know why I don't post very often in future ill let you get on with it 😎
Whoah!! You really got to start using more full stops in your posts. I got 6 lines before the first comma and I was hyper-ventilating!
'Triggered'?
Anyway, If my post gave you the hump then I apologise.
Meanwhile...
Almost forgot to do the asymetrical neck mod.
Attachment 35741
Whilst sanding this sucker I forgot about the last time I got American Ash sawdust in my eye.
Got my fingers crossed.
Attachment 35742
That brings me to the 'Grant's Neck Mod'
Attachment 35743
Attachment 35744
I think I'll leave this until after the neck radius.
It means there will be more surface area for the double sided tape to hold.
cheers, Mark.
Forgot to add the headstock carvings
Attachment 35745
Attachment 35746
Attachment 35747
cheers, Mark.
The red arrow shows the point on the saddle you measure the scale length to, the place where the string just leaves the curve of the saddle slot. If you've measured to further back on the saddle, then that may explain why it's a bit further forwards that it probably should be.
Attachment 35766
Just remember that its the vibrating string length that defines the scale length, nothing else. So don't worry about anything but measuring between the flat side of the nut (else or the top of the zero fret if the guitar has one) and the point where the string leaves the saddle. That works for all guitars and all bridge types.