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Wow thanks for that.....golf day today but I will get on to that tomorrow.
I was worried I’d put the switch in wrong wayarround. The red circle is where the original blue wire was but I figured I would use a continuous wire from the 4 connector wire right through to the pot rather than stopping at the end of the switch and then using another wire to connect switch to pot.
That was a lot of work and gives me a lot to work on....thanks
PROBLEM SOLVED eventually
I redid much of the solder and the three switch positions connected. I put tape under the switch. Everything looked ok.
Back to my music room.....farting and spitting came out of the amp. My wife said you’re not going to spend hours retiring again...go to the guitar repair guy I have used for guitar set ups in the past. I agreed and he took me into his workshop checked connections soldered a couple. Still a connection problem...it was the copper shielding and he took that out and it sounded fantastic.
20 minutes and my problem over and he did it as a freebie...nice guy. Played for hour or so last night super chuffed.
As this should be my last post ( my wife thinks 8 guitars is enough) thanks to all. It really has been a great experience and lockdown is over in NZ so I’m also back to golf / lawn bowls etc YOU GUYS HAVE BEEN GREAT
You have been a great help....thanks. Shielding in the switch cavity was the real issue.
Eight guitars is what we normally call 'a good start'. :cool:
Glad you got it working in the end. All the best and enjoy the guitar.
Congrats for getting the build finished. That's something I haven't managed yet.
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Thinking of making a AG ...I’m missing the fun of making a guitar.
I think I can handle the soldering...only concern is the set neck asi guess you only get one goat glueing.
Have you done this...pitfalls?
None really. Just need to make sure that you mask off the neck heel and the pocket edges when putting on the finish as you need wood to wood contact for the glue to work properly. With the two horns, it's fairly easy to get three clamps onto the neck when gluing for good pressure (always use protective wood blocks to spread the pressure and stop the clamps marking the body).
Mask off around the heel join area on the outside so any glue squeeze-out doesn't sit on the finish (or just the wood, depending on when you glue the neck on in the build process). And wipe off as much excess glue as possible with a damp cloth or damp cotton buds etc. If I find a spot is hard to reach with a cloth, I'll use a small artist paintbrush with water to thin and remove the glue.
Try not to use too much glue to minimise squeeze-out, but better a bit too much than too little. Best to spread the glue on both surfaces with a brush to ensure as much of the surface is covered as possible, rather than rely on the clamping to squeeze the glue out evenly from a couple of central blobs.