You want the SD JB Trembucker version.
https://www.seymourduncan.com/pickup...=5e9b0eb8b207b
Trembucker = Fender spacing.
Yes, they could make it clearer.
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You want the SD JB Trembucker version.
https://www.seymourduncan.com/pickup...=5e9b0eb8b207b
Trembucker = Fender spacing.
Yes, they could make it clearer.
Thanks Simon.
Trembucker, yeah Fender uses a "trem"....makes sense sort of..... Another case of those secret handshake things I suppose
So, if I may ask, what is the issue?Quote:
...however it's not the center of the poles which is a tiny tad irksome.
Will the neck cope with a 52mm bridge. The kit necks tend to be very narrow. I made this mistake with the first bridge I got for my Thinline ST.
I intend to use the kit bridge which seems to be a 52mm wide string spacing. Hopefully the neck width will be fine.
I do have a big block vintage Fender bridge that I have had for years and I wanted to use, however string spacing on it is a mute point as the block is 42mm deep, and with the 3 tension springs takes it to 43mm so will sit quite proud of the back surface of the 41.5mm thick lovely Ash body.... another hopeful plan foiled.
Looking into finding a trembucker version of something SD, else I will rummage around in my HB spares box and test a few to find one I like.
Had that rummage round and found in my big box of HB spares a Seymor Duncan PU with the correct pole spacing for this build. From the numbers on the back I believe it also to be a JB.... It got promoted to be in this build.... Not sure what I will do with that new Gibson spaced SD JB, pretty happy with all my other builds so I guess it will go into my HB spares box for now.......
After all the discussion about Timbermate I thought I'd try something completely different. Left over from some house renovations I had half a tub of SpackFiller by Selleys. It is a white paste that doesn't shrink, so I added about 10 drops of Jarrah stain to a sizeable lump of the filler and applied it to the huge pores in the Ash body of the build.... so far so good. The gaping cavernous holes that were pores are now filled flat with something that aproximates the color of the craters in the wood.... Only sanding when it is fully dry will reveal if I did the right thing....lol
A few hours, some sand paper, and a bit of elbow grease.... and things are looking a whole lot better... This might even eventually look how I want
Looks OK to me.
I wasn't 100% sure how the Selleys spack filler would turn out... but it sanded far better than I expected, with nil shrinkage... The body is wonderfully smooth now, and all the grain is solidly filled.... ready for painting... :)
The Chinese use the same thing to grain fill Marcel and you can also tint it, another thing you can use is car body filler by diluting it with thinners and painting it on its a trick of the trade there's so many ways to grain fill except timber mate its terrible under a lacquerQuote:
Originally Posted by Marcel