Yes good advise. I invested in a mask that can also take a filter for chemical vapour. Great investment. Something like this..
https://www.bunnings.com.au/protecto...rator_p5820146
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Yes good advise. I invested in a mask that can also take a filter for chemical vapour. Great investment. Something like this..
https://www.bunnings.com.au/protecto...rator_p5820146
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Yep thats the sort of thing, i have the dual filter version with P2 cartridges in it. Best part is I can get the cartridges through work for Nada.Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdosborne
Thing is, I should already know about using safety gear when working on stuff from my days as an apprentice Fitter and Machinist, and what they taught me at Tech.
Update:
I gave the Gold Strat body a decent sanding-down last night and managed to get the majority of the paint off it, there are still some traces of white undercoat on the body which I haven't been able to remove by sanding the body by hand, so, I think I'm definitely going to have to hit it with an Orbital Sander which I'll buy on Tuesday next week, I've left the body routes "as is" because once the Scratchplate and Trem-Spring Route-Cover are in place, you can't see into the Routes, so it doesn't really make sense to apply Timbermate to the insides of the Body Routes, I really only need to Timbermate the surface of the Gold Strat body where the grain-pattern is most visible, here's what the body looks like now:
Attachment 13758
Attachment 13759
good effort to sand that off by hand Doc, you must have sore arms. Have a good look at the primer coat pics and you will see on the back below the neck plate the areas where grain is still visible. Try and grain fill all the open grain areas. Don't worry about anything under the pickguard
Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Hahahaha....yep, my right arm is still slightly sore from all the sanding I did last night, but hey as the saying goes no pain, no gain...lol, incidentally, I found out that those coarse steel-wool scouring-pads, that are used in washing dishes, make quite effective paint-removers, don't worry, using one of those didn't affect the surface of the body much, it just speeded-up the paint-removal, there's a good tip for those who want to finish guitar-bodies with spray cans, make sure you have a couple of coarse steel-wool dishwashing scouring-pads on hand, use them dry, and they will help to speed-up the paint removal process.
Cheers, will make sure I cover that area with the Timbermate, but I think I'll go the whole hog and also cover the rest of the body too, I can then sand it back flat, what grades of sandpaper do you reckon I should sand the Timbermate back to, to get a nice flat surface all over?, I have some 180 Grit, some 240 Grit, some 320 Grit, some 400 Grit, and some 800 Grit.
Hey Doc I would sand the bulk of TM off with 240 grit then as most of it is off go to 320 grit and higher grits.
It's worth pre-sanding the body to 240 grit before the TM goes on otherwise you risk sanding it out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Cheers mate, I'll do that then, hopefully that'll make the surface nice and smooth so that the grain doesn't show through the paint, this has all been a great learning-experience for me so far, and when get round to doing the finishing work on the HotRod Strat, I'll apply what I've learnt to it, but I'm going to wait till I've finished the Gold Strat off first so I can keep myself focused.
I can easily see this thread going for quite a few more pages, I may even be able to keep it going till I get to a double-ton.
Here's a pic of the scouring-pad I used on the body last night to speed-up the paint removal, it's same like the 0000-grade Steel Wool, only a lot coarser:
Attachment 13760
best way to know how well it's sanded Doc is to slowly rub your bare fingers over the surfaces. You should be able to feel most high and low points and scratches. I wouldn't use a scouring pad again I'd say it will leave tiny grooves in the grain and create even more sanding. Once you get your orbital sander that will make life much easier
Sad to see such grainy goodness being hidden under a solid colour.
@ Wazkelly Yeah I know, but I really want to paint it a solid Gold colour, if the grain had been more like a bookmatched flamed-maple then yeah I'd go for a translucent finish, I don't personally think the grain pattern is special enough to justify it but then again other people might have a different opinion, and that's cool.
@ Wokka Yep, I'll consider that a lesson learnt mate.
Update:
I did some more sanding of the body last night and managed to remove some more traces of the white undercoat paint from around the neck pocket area, the body is looking pretty bare now, can't wait till next Tuesday when I can buy that Orbital Sander and really get stuck into it, I'm aiming to have the Gold Strat up and running in a playable condition by November this year, cause my mate and I are going to be doing a Surf-medley at a club gig and I really want to use the Gold Strat cause it's the most appropriate for playing Surf-Rock Instrumentals, yes I know you can also use Mosrites too, might consider building a Ventures-style Mosrite next year, cause I've never played a Mosrite before, would love to cause they look cool, but I reckon they'd be a bit out of my budget, so, if I could build one from a kit that would be cool, yep, I am a GAS sufferer....lol.
Update:
I have been doing some re-assessing of my financial situation, and due to a debit with my PayPal account which I will have to pay-off this coming fortnight, I'm not going to have money to budget for a new Orbital Sander, so, I'll have to continue sanding using the old-fashioned manual-method, i.e. by hand, not to worry, I'll buy an Orbital Sander later on this year when my finances permit.
Anyway, there are still some faint traces of the white undercoat paint left on the body of the guitar which I can't seem to remove by sanding, so later on this afternoon, I'm going to go ahead and apply some Maple Timbermate to the body of the Gold Strat, I'm then going to leave it to dry overnight and I'll sand it back smooth tomorrow.
Will keep you all up to date on the progress, with pics too, so stay tuned.
good stuff Doc looks like you got to use your guns for a bit longer to sand
look forward to seeing it sanded after Timbermate, should be flat after that !
Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Yep, I'll look on the bright side of it, at least my guns are going to be getting the exercise they need and deserve...haha..will keep you up to date on it mate.
One other project I'll work on today is to strip down my Octavia to it's bare case and give it a new White paint-job cause I'm adding it to my Pedalboard along with some of my other vintage-style pedals I've made.
The Axis Fuzz will be getting a new Orange paint job too but I'll have to wait till Tuesday to buy some Orange paint from Bunnings, will also go to my local Officeworks shop to see if they have some suitable Rub-on Letraset sheets so I can re-do the labelling on both the Axis Fuzz and the Octavia, they should look cool once they're finished.
it's possible the guitar is flat and the paint is sitting in small divots in the body... sand on mate
Update:
Have just finished giving the Gold Strat body a good liberal coating of Maple Timbermate all over it except for the body routes which don't need coating, I'll post a couple of pics so you can see what it looks like, I think I managed to coat all the problem areas with a good thick coating so hopefully I'll be able to get the body nice and smooth......stay tuned.
Okay, here we go, here's the front view of the body:
Attachment 13821
And here's the back view:
Attachment 13822
Now to leave it to dry overnight, and then hopefully Sanding, Sanding, Sanding, and more Sanding in the morning.
By the looks of that Doc...you'll have a lot to talk about with your guitar whilst sanding.......
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
Actually, it's all sanded back to bare wood now, I did that a couple of days ago and my arm-muscles were a bit sore afterwards, so I gave myself a break from it, might see if I can spray it with the primer later on this afternoon.
As far as I can tell the Timbermate did the trick, the body seems a bit smoother all over now so hopefully the grain won't be showing through.
The area where I did the sanding looks like it has been gathering dust for a century, the pair of shorts I was wearing at the time strangely looked a lighter colour after I had finished...lol.
good stuff Doc, getting there, your guns have had a good workout so there is a positive side to all the sanding !
I know the feeling too well all the dust created from sanding
Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Cheers mate, I'm going to make myself a cuppa and then I'll see if I can get the spray painting done afterwards, need the cuppa to pep me up a bit, will post some more pics too.
no worries Doc, remember practice your spraying action and learn to identify runs in the paint early as you can. You are better spraying a light coat and going back over it about 20 mins after
Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Yep, this time I'm going to do light sprays, not smothering sprays, cause I really don't want to have to sand it all back and repeat the process again, I'll consider it a lesson learnt, at least I did get some practice though, I'm eager to see what the Gold paint will look like on the body, cause if it's anything like how I picture it in my mind it should look good.
Update:
Just finished spraying one coat of the Grey primer paint onto the Gold Strat body and already she's looking a lot better, as far as I can see there are no paint-runs this time round, also the grain next to the back of the neck pocket isn't showing-through like it was before, so I reckon I'm going to roll with it this time, once the primer has dried I might start spray-painting the body with the Gold paint, I'll see if I can post a couple of pics of the body as it is now.
Update:
Here we go, here's what the Gold Strat body looks like now, no paint-runs this time round, I'm going to roll with it so once the Primer has dried I reckon it'll be ready for the Gold paint:
Attachment 13845
Attachment 13846
well done Doc that looks so much better than your first effort. If there is primer left in the can might as well put another coat on once that has cured. Remember the primer paint is a fraction of the cost of the gold paint and best the body flat as you can with the primer
Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Cheers mate, I reckon it looks so much better too, I think it was partly because I sprayed in short-bursts and also because I held the can further away from the body, it said on the can to hold the can about 25cm away from the surface, I held it about 30cm away, anyway, there is still some primer left in the can, maybe enough to do another coat in about an hour or so's time, might let the body dry overnight once I'm done with the primer.
I think the next item on my shopping list is going to be some Automotive Cut and Polish, or, I might see if I can buy some of that Meguiars stuff that you used on your Gold Tele.
When it comes to doing the finishing work on the HotRod Strat, I'll keep what I've learnt so far in mind, hopefully that will go well too.
I'm in a pretty upbeat-mood about this, cause I feel like I've achieved something.
Update:
Just finished spraying a second coat of primer on the Gold Strat body, still no paint-runs so I've brought it inside so I can hang it up to dry overnight, will start spray-painting the body Gold tomorrow and will post some more pics of it too....stay tuned.
Looks nice and flat doc
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickosaurus
Cheers, it felt pretty flat too, hopefully it'll be ready for it's first coat of Gold paint tomorrow, I checked it about an hour ago and it's already pretty dry to the touch, but I'm still going to play it safe and wait till tomorrow to start spray-painting it.
Update:
Just sprayed the Gold Strat body with it's first coat of Gold spray paint after giving it a light sanding-down with some 800-grit sandpaper, will post a couple of pics so you can see what it looks like now, happy with the results I'm getting so far, there doesn't seem to be any evidence of paint-reaction issues anywhere on the body, going to give it an hour to dry before applying another coat.
And here we are, this is what the Gold Strat body looks like after I sprayed it with the first coat of White Knight Super Gold paint, does it look cool or what?:
Attachment 13847
Attachment 13848
Note: The grain-pattern still seems to be showing-through the paint but I've decided not to worry about it and keep it as a feature because I think it actually adds to the effect I'm trying to achieve, so, I'm very happy with the results I'm getting so far, this is just what I was originally envisioning in my mind when I started this build-diary.
Here's another pic for you guys, the Gold paint had been drying for well over an hour and was definitely touch dry, it says on the can that it's a fast-drying paint, anyway, I thought that I would do a quick mock-up of the Gold Strat so that you can see what the guitar is going to look like once it has been assembled after the body-finishing work has been completed, does she look cool?, I think she does:
Attachment 13849
This is exactly the effect I was originally aiming for, pretty excited about the results I'm getting and can't wait till it's all finished and the guitar is in a playable state.
mock build looks great Doc, gee the grain is obvious, if you can live with the grain that's cool. How much of the gold can did you use ?
It's good to finally get the colour coat on !
Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Cheers mate, I reckon I can easily live with the grain showing cause I think it gives it that vintagey look, like it's aged a bit, so I'm going to call it a feature rather than a flaw, I actually didn't use much of the paint, there's still heaps of it left in the can, maybe enough for another ten coats or so cause I gave it a light spray from a distance of at least 30cm away from the body, and that was after only one coat of the paint, I'm going to give it a second coat a bit later on when I get back from the shops, how many coats of the Gold paint do you reckon I should give it before I start clear-coating it?
And yep, I agree, it's great to finally get some colour-coats on it, it's been a long wait but well worth it.
yeah cool Doc, doubt you will get 10 coats or if so they will be superlight. Paint will fill in a bit of the grain. See how it looks after the gold can has gone and you need to decide if you need another can. Make sure you use the White Knight clear gloss paint
Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Will do, I'm assuming you mean the same White Knight Clear Gloss paint that you used on your Gold Tele, cause I made sure I bought the same can of Clear Gloss that you used, here's a pic of the can so you can check that it's the same type, next to it is a can of White Knight Clear Gloss Acrylic that they had in stock in the Big Green Shed, I've used it on my Rangemaster pedal with good results:
Attachment 13850
yeah the Rustguard can on the left Doc I used. Don't use the acrylic may not be compatible.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
No worries and cheers for that, I'll leave the Acrylic for my pedal builds cause I've had no issues with it on any of them, so, basically keep spraying coats of Gold paint on the body and see what it looks like after the can is finished.
yep that's the plan Doc, give the paint plenty of time to cure between coats, try spray when it's not too windy and stop spraying first sign of runs. All this practice is paying off
Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Yep, and after getting the good results I've gotten, I really don't want to muck it up and have to sand it all off and start again, I'd rather finish it off properly, cheers for your help mate, much appreciated.
Just got some rain today which is a bit unusual, geez that was a short dry-season we got this year, looks like I might have to leave spraying another coat till tomorrow, weather permitting.