A first kit for Christmas: JMA-1L

I would use the larger size potentiometers - 24mm. All the makes of potentiometer are good ones. CTS is the brand that most US guitar manufacturers use. Volume potentiometers should always be log/audio taper types. With tone potentiometers, you have a choice between using log and linear pots depending on whether toy want a fast of slower acting tone control. With single coils, I'd normally choose potentiometers with a log characteristic. For Fender-style knobs you really need a split shaft with splines to guarantee that the knobs will fit on well, so https://www.musikding.de/Bourns-Pot-...0k-log-knurled

If you never use the tone controls, then it doesn't really matter whether they are linear or log.

You can check the general amount of bow in the neck by holding down the bottom E string at the 1st and 17th frets. This needs to be done with all the strings on and tuned. You can then look at the height of the string above the 7th fret. For a standard set-up, there should be between 0.5mm and 1mm of gap between the fret and the string. Any more than 1mm and the neck needs to be straightened (truss rod nut turned clockwise/to the right). If there's no gap, then the truss rod nut needs to be loosened (truss rod nut turned anti-clockwise/to the left).

Unless the truss rod nut is very loose, never turn it more than 1/4 turn at a time. Check the result, then wait a few minutes then check again (as it can take a little while for the neck to fully respond to the change in truss-rod tension). Check the amount of neck bow again and if necessary, make another adjustment (again 1/4 turn maximum) After any change in the truss rod nut position, check the amount of bow. Once you're happy, then leave the neck overnight and check again the next day, as sometimes the neck continues to move a little bit.

This may not fully solve the string height issue, but you need to get the neck bow set up correctly before knowing what the next steps to take are.

Hi Maxence,
The bridge is a floating design. It does not need to sit on the body.
On the JM-1L I built, the bridge is 4 to 5 mm above the body.You can see the gap in the photo.
Attach the neck with the screws and then wind the posts out until you get no fret buzz.
Attachment 24479
This link is a better photo of the bridge.
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...2&d=1508666479

Hi !
I'm currently adjusting truss rod and I need to loosen it, it's actually convex !
Do you have some advice ?
Someone told me that I had to loosen one-eighth of a turn each time,
but someone also told me that to loosen up, there was no restriction

What time should I take between each release?

I confess that I'm not at all comfortable with the truss rod! : /
I searched dozens of tutorials on the internet but I do not really understand.
I know that my handle is convex, it's not really hard to guess (The first strings do not even ring because they touch the band, even empty but the last strings sound pretty much), but in what direction?
I am told to turn counter-clockwise, but in relation to which axis? Currently I turned a quarter of a turn from the right if we place on the side of the body as in this picture:

Is it good ?
Do you have any advice for me?
Thank you ;)

So if you were to look down the neck from the tuners towards the guitar body - right is clockwise left is counter clockwise.

It's like a normal screw or bolt "Righty-Tighty" "Lefty-Loosey" (I'm not sure how well that will translate :) )

To flatten the neck you need to tighten the truss rod. Do a 1/4 of turn and then leave it. Overnight is best but a couple of hours is OK. Re-check it and adjust again if necessary.

We are trying to make fine adjustments with wood, which as a natural material has its own behaviours. It takes time for it to settle down after any adjustment, so just do a little bit at a time. You will find that even after you finish the guitar that it will need fine tuning and adjusting as it settles in with the string tension.

Unfortunately its another thing that just needs a bit of care and patience.

If you have a convex neck, then I'd ease it off a bit more than 1/4 turn at a time. I'd suggest 1/2 turn to start with. You need to go beyond a straight neck so that you can get a concave curve in the neck. You then want to tighten the truss rod to pull the neck flatter so that you've only got a small amount of convex curve in the neck. That's when you don't want to make big adjustments as a small amount of turn can make a big difference when you are nearly at the correct neck curve. So 1/4 turn maximum but give it less of a turn if you are almost there.

Just like a machine head/tuner, where you always want to tune up to a note so the gears are always under tension, you want to tighten up to the correct neck tension, not slacken off. If you go too far and the neck gets too flat, then loosen the truss rod off a bit so you've got a decent amount of concave bow and then slowly work back up to just a small amount of bow.

Once you think you are there, re-tune the guitar, then leave it overnight and check the neck curve again the next day. You may need to do a small amount of adjustment once the neck has settled down.

Hello !
Here are some news but no pictures! ;)
I received tru oil and bought a set of strings GHD 10-42 (My dealer has no more D'addario: '() to have more comforts of play! :)
I am currently waiting to receive the decals before oiling the neck and also the shielding tape that should not delay! ;)
I finally managed to properly adjust my truss rod, the height of my strings and harmonics, it's comfortable as I like it! :)

Since I have already installed my new set of strings and I don’t want to remove them so quickly, shield my guitar and connect the earth to the bridge (I forgot it) is not going to be a trivial matter! I will probably relax the strings up, it should be enough! What do you think about it ?

Hello everyone !
I have to put the tru oil but I ordered without making white decals instead of transparent, would it be possible to put the decals after?
The time I order and receive transparencies?
thank you

You would normally put some coats of Tru-oil on first, then put the decals on, then more coats of Tru-oil over the top. So you can start to put the Tru-oil on, but I wouldn't put more than 4 coats on the headstock before adding the decals. You'll want several coats of Tru-oil over the decals to protect them and have enough depth to sand the Tru-oil flat then polish it once it's cured.