I know all about the mental block thing, so I sympathise.
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I know all about the mental block thing, so I sympathise.
Dumb question, but what's a barrel jack doing there? Isn't the jack on the front on an SG?
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Jack position different, switch position different. No idea why they changed it for this model, but they did. Rather than keep it standard for a budget model, they decided to re-engineer it, which must have added a reasonable cost. The cocaine was really having an effect on the management by this time.
That is nuts. The econo model uses an interior but more expensive jack.
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IMHO it looks much nicer and cleaner having the jack on the edge of the guitar. Functionally I doubt it makes any difference.
Brief update: I sent the wire harness back to 920D to be fixed. They received it today. I'll probably get it back after the holidays which is fine. I won't be able to install it before January 18th anyway.
Thanks goes to Simon for spotting the mistake in the wiring. I never would've noticed that.
I think you're right about the aesthetics of the side jacks. It's very clean looking and can be used even when there is a lot of curve like on an SG.
I like them on the front because I always seem to bump them when I am sitting. Especially when using a straight plug.
Functionally there is no Sonic difference, of course. It's more about durability. A decent open jack will last forever. I have one that is over 50 years old and working perfectly. Even high quality barrel jacks like Switchcrafts will eventually break. Particularly if you use different cords with them. I converted the one on my G&L to an LP style side jack after it broke for the second time.
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Having thought a bit more about the history of the guitar, I suspect that it really simply followed on from "The Paul"
Attachment 33026
There may have been some savings on that guitar by not having the upper front bout toggle switch with its own cavity and cover. Because the body was quite a lot thinner than a normal LP, the standard jack plate may have been too large to fit in neatly, so the overall smaller barrel jack was used. Standard jack plate size is 33.5mm square, and I'm sure the overall body thickness of the guitars would have been very similar. My 2014 Melody Maker LP has an edge thickness of only 33mm, and has thinner rectangular jackplate as a result. The "The SG" cavity was just a touch too shallow to fit a 25mm deep switched pot in.
Then "The SG" followed on from that.
Attachment 33027
Once you ditch the carved maple cap and have a flat-top Les Paul, there isn't a lot to differentiate it from an SG apart from the body shape. So you can now use the same body blanks and cavity routing template for both guitars. I'd expect they used exactly the same necks on both guitars, and is probably why the "The SG" has a chunky Les Paul thickness neck, rather than the normal skinnier SG one. So the only real difference between the "The Paul" and "The SG" is the body shape and the edge chamfering.
Sounds like a good hypothesis.
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Hi Simon,
I just received this harness from 920D. They claim to have corrected the wiring problem. I can see that they did something but I'm not convinced that they actually fixed the issue. Would you please take a look and advise?
They still haven't moved the output wire to the centre tag like the SG50-PIO harness.
That's what I thought!! What a bunch of clowns! There's a famous saying: Anyone can make a mistake but only a fool makes the same mistake twice.
I can see that they changed the capacitors. I'm not sure what (if anything) else they did. At this point I'll be requesting a full refund. I've already found another company to build the harness for me: https://gunstreetwiringshop.com
Thanks very much for your help.
The wiring is correct with regards to that diagram, but that's not how the wiring is done on their SG50-PIO page.
https://920dcustom.com/collections/p...t-pio-caps-new
As they don't show that wiring diagram on the page, any customer can only expect to get what's on that page by the photographs. So at the very least they are guilty of misrepresentation.
I've contacted 920D and shown them how the harness is still wrong and doesn't match the photo on their web site. I told them that I want a full refund. Here is their reply:
I see what you mean, although there are a couple of different ways to do 50’s wiring. It’s how the caps are wired between the volume/tone controls that determines if it’s 50’s style wiring. Where the selector leads are attached doesn’t change that.
It wouldn’t be an experiment so long as you wire your hot pickup leads into the center terminal on the volume controls where the caps are attached.
I would say that it’s unreasonable to return this before you’ve given it a try. Since it is wired correctly, it would be susceptible to a re-stocking fee if we decide to go that route. If you give it a shot and it doesn’t turn out how you would like, we’ll be happy to take it back and give you a full refund.
Next, I wrote back and gave them 3 options:
1) Accept the harness and issue me a full refund
2) Refuse to issue a full refund in which case I file a claim with my credit card company.
3) Accept the harness, repair it (i.e. it should be identical to the photo of the 50s wiring harness on your web site) and
promptly send it back to me.
That's where things stand now.
P.S.
Yes, I know I could easily make the small wiring change myself. But that defeats the purpose of buying something pre-made. And it bothers be that they aren't selling what's advertised. BTW, I did a search and cannot find any other company with a 50's wire harness that resembles what they sent me.
It's very strange.
The harness will work, and there won't be any difference in sound with the volumes set on 10. But the volumes will respond quite differently to the normal method. You may or may not prefer it, as it means that in the middle selector position, you can turn one volume right down without killing the output.
But as the caps are connected to the pickup output, not the pot output, you won't get the '50s tone pot response that you are supposed to get with '50s wiring.
Stick to your guns.
I think they got it right this time. And all I had to do was threaten to kill their firstborn.
The neck tone control looks like it may be wrong to me, though the pic is a bit too small and blurred to say for sure. You've also got the output wires to the jack covering the tone pot connections. With the three tabs facing you, connections should be centre (to ground) and right (to capacitor) tabs. Looks a bit like on the neck tone pot, the two outer ones are the ones connected, which means it won't work.
For some reason your pics are all posted as thumbnails, which may be why they are so small. Can you try to not post them as thumbnails?
These photos should be a bit better. Still haven't quite got the hang of it.
Can you confirm that it's wired correctly?
You've still got the output wires covering the tone pot connections! Move the output jack to the other side of the harness.
I appreciate your time and your patience, Simon. Please have a look and tell me what you think.
OK, that looks fine. It's just that they'd bent the centre lug over so far to the left to solder it to the casing that it looked a bit wrong in the picture. I normally snip the unused lug off on the tone pot to avoid any chance of getting it wrong or something shorting out on it.
So rest easy.
Thanks, Simon. I'm definitely resting easier. Now the last step is get it installed. Let's hope it drops in and works perfectly. ;-)
Finally got the wiring harness installed. It works fine and there is a definite difference in tone. I don't know what words to use to accurately describe the difference but it's very noticeable. I'm glad I made the change.
I'd say at this point my SG is nearly as good as it's going to get. In addition to the new harness it has upgraded locking tuners, a String Butler, a roller bridge, a vibrato and strap locks. I recently took a 1 day course to learn how to properly set up a guitar. Once all my tools arrive that'll be the last thing to do.