Excellent, good to know. This hunk of wood is heavy as! There is a lot still to take off it though.Quote:
Originally Posted by vh2580
Excellent, good to know. This hunk of wood is heavy as! There is a lot still to take off it though.Quote:
Originally Posted by vh2580
The rails are the right idea, I’d modify your mounting plate to a sled arrangement so that you can move the router along the sled between your rails, and the sled itself down along your rails. That way you are not having to move the whole mass off the router and the mounting plateQuote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
You just need to cut a slot lengthwise down your mounting board to the router to run along. A couple of straight guide rails that are just wider than Your router base and you’re sweet.
Yeah I saw a similar setup online using sliding door runners, but what I really need is to be able to lock one axis.
So I did this, I drilled a bunch of holes and put movable stops in them to let me do more even passes. Worked quite well, but because the other side of the wood isn't flat it rocks around a bit making consistent depth difficult. Anyway, it was enough to remove 5-10 mm from each side and then I hit it with a cheap electric planer. It's getting pretty good. A few more passes and I think it's be right to move onto power sanding.
https://i.imgur.com/Tqj9lWU.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/92qpvxO.jpg
Sprayed it black so I could see what I was doing a bit better
https://i.imgur.com/HRgPQKf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hOGuGyt.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/X6rdFTW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/vS8wQ5d.jpg
Still some small cracks here and there that I'm not sure I'll get out, so there will be a bit of filling required here and there. Should be OK I think - a little way off doing that yet anyway.
What width bit are you using?
I have it in my head to set up something similar on the bench i'm building, but the rails will be steel box section milled true on two sides.
The sled will have wheel mounts to glide along the tops of the runners and hold it in place on the faces. Just got to finish the bench!
A really small one..15mm? Totally the wrong tool for the job, but its what I have already. That setup sounds similar to the one with there sliding door fixings. There are some great bits of channel with wheels to suit at the BGS in the castors section.
Some more hack and slash. Had enough noise and dust for the day I think.
https://i.imgur.com/IaA6ZGX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4BPLoE7.jpg
Sorry, but I can't get past the Red Dwarf episode ( Marooned) where Lister cuts a guitar shape out of Rimmer's camphorwood Javanese chest.Quote:
Originally Posted by vh2580
cheers, Mark.
edit double post
Dammit! I knew I was remembering something about a camphorwood guitar! :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
I really want to send you some Zebrano topped Mahogany to build one of these.
Hah ha.. I had forgotten about that.Quote:
Originally Posted by king casey
@ Frankie
Oh yeah, that'd be awesome. Let me get through this build and finish setting up all my gear and then we should talk.. All going well, spitting one out of supplied wood should be pretty straight forward :)
https://i.imgur.com/omd38w5.jpg
Went OK. A few boo boos, especially around the end grain. I think I should be able to sand and fiddle it back to being pretty close to the original shape. Had a bit of an experiment with sawdust and super glue so will see how that looks.
Reasonably happy. It'll definitely be worth getting the blanks properly thicknessed next time.
Looking good so far! Did you rout with a long template bit that does the whole thickness in one go? (trying to make sense of the noodly shavings)
Looking Schmicko Sonic, I've a vision of carved top variant percolating through my brain.....really must get Igor to change the filter....
Yep, this sucker here- 50mm straight cut follow bit. It's copped a bit of a flogging doing this actually which is is probably at least partly responsible for a couple of rough areas.
It's just a cheapy from Bunnings, so I think I'll upgrade in the not to distant future. The router itself is unreal, it came from Total Tools and is their 'generic' line 'Renegade'. It's scary powerful. It's on half speed for this and didn't bog down at all, the bit is the weak point, but even so I was surprised at how well it works. My technique is what needs improving.
https://i.imgur.com/8Z7OWHi.jpg
Something I definitely considered given the thickness of this chunk of wood!Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
A bit more 'progress'.
Routed out the swimming pool (rough) and the neck pocket (somewhat better). Made the discovery that the chuck in the cheapo router isn't holding the bit properly so consistent depth is almost impossible. Managed to get it fairly secure for the neck pocket, but I've now discovered the bit is to fat to achieve the radius at the bottom of the neck. So it sits in, but doesn't butt up against the end of the pocket. Will grab another bit tomorrow and tidy it up. The swimming pool route will do, but it's not as tidy as I want it to be either. I know that cutting corners with cheap tools rarely works out, I've proved that to myself once again.
I guess that's why this is the prototype, to find all the things I didn't properly anticipate. I'm thinking I'll completely redo the templates to fix a few issues before the next try. I'm going to push on and complete this one anyway.. no doubt I'll make more discoveries along the way.
https://i.imgur.com/Kso7e5d.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TnARLKE.jpg
Comparison shot.
https://i.imgur.com/zquouV7.jpg
I'm a bit down on the whole thing at the moment. Time for a break.
Loving the ‘ice hockey stick’ shape of the neck and headstock.
Are you saying he's pucked up? :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
Ha, nice one. No, scoring goals.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Cheers, that's the direct inspiration. I played roller hockey a lot as a teenager and always loved the scythe like feel of the stick. Also a bit of a nod to the Yamaha Flying Banana/Samurai guitars.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
Yuk yuk, very punny.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Starting to question my wood choice for the body. It's heavy as heck and like concrete to work. I'm going to persevere, but I'll definitely use something else for the next version.
I feel you. When I was trying to rout the bridge for my $0 guitar:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
- 1st attempt, template slipped, had to start over, and repair the template.
- 2nd attempt, hand went through spindle, out of action for weeks.
- 3rd attempt, the ring holding the bearing in place slipped. Luckily, it only gouged a bit inside the lines and I could reshape that edge with a file.
For me, the most frustrating setbacks are the ones that don't teach you anything. Except maybe patience, and who has time for that?
Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
Yeah, patience is a lesson I'm destined to learn over and over. All good, would be silly to expect my first entirely from scratch build to be smooth sailing and at least I'm working out things to do differently next time.Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Axe
I found that with my cheapo router, the bits I was using (a cheapo eBay Chinese set) also wouldn't grip in the chuck properly. I bought a good quality single bit (that cost more than the whole Chinese set) and had no problems. So my cheap set has shafts that are just that bit too small (see what I did there?) and it went in the bin. Of course a better router might have a more adjustable chuck, but I've decided to stick with what I've got and use decent bits (which will undoubtedly last longer) instead.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
Yep wise move.
I bit the bullet and went and bought a much higher quality flush trim bit for the plunge router today and the difference is night and day.
I got the control cavity routed out. To be honest, it's not to the standard I'm hoping to achieve with these builds, but it is a massive step forward. A bit more practice and I think I'll be happy enough. This will do for this build. I also didn't think clearly enough about how the cover was going to work, so I don't think I will recess it on this one. But all good. Learning learning.
I also got a great new grinding disc and set about some of the shaping for the heel, forearm cut and belly relief. So far so good. Much easier than trying to rasp/file/sand on this wood.
I'm also happy to report that the weight of the body is approaching what I would consider reasonable. It's about on par with the shoegazer body now, maybe a little lighter. I might actually weigh both of them and see how they compare.
Anyway, coming along. After some more sanding and refining I'm going to start filling some of the cracks and borer holes, pretty much unavoidable with native timbers... so I'm saying they add character :). The Camphor laurel is a lot better in this regard and I'm starting to think that may be a much better option for future bodies.
https://i.imgur.com/Ccnsps0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GazaOUV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/YqpwMQh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8K7UCFE.jpg
and the new weapon.
https://i.imgur.com/kAenyvI.jpg
And just for fun
https://i.imgur.com/z2UnPc8.jpg
Oh man........I want one.......
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Is that a King Arthur flap disk? I've been eyeing off a few KA attachments. The Holey Galahad is pretty high on my list, but I need to suss out what grain to get.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
Its just a ceramic flap disc from the BGS - josco brand. Was about $12 and goes through the wood like butter. This white mahogany (which is actually a variety of stringy bark) is incredibly hard. Enough to ruin 2 cheapo router bits so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Axe
Pretty much the biggest compliment :) All going well I do plan on selling these.Quote:
Originally Posted by OliSam
Reminds me a bit of this.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
https://pointyguitar.files.wordpress...n_gp_10_86.jpg
Are you insinuating that one must grow a mullet to play it?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fretworn
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Considering the rapid growth of my forehead in recent years, the mullet is one of the few hairstyles I might convincingly pull off.Quote:
Originally Posted by OliSam
But ...no.
Yeah I can see that. The original two big inspirations are the Flying Samurai and The Fantomen (which is sort of a Gibson RD shape but nicer)Quote:
Originally Posted by Fretworn
https://i.imgur.com/vYtZmvU.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CU6FCpP.jpg
I used to have one of the flying banana bass's and I always liked the headstock.
That Flying Samurai is wild. Shame present day Yamahas are so bland.
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Hmm, worth checking out the Revstars, they are really nice guitars. I've played one of these ones and was very impressed (I kinda want one eventually)Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Axe
https://i.imgur.com/6zRbh7F.jpg
Anyway, bit of an update. I took the weekend off from messing around in the shed to do some much needed gardening.
I put a mix of glue and sawdust in the swimming pool cavity and rerouted to tidy it up a it from where I went too deep with the drill.
https://i.imgur.com/nDR2W91.jpg
I've also done some more work contouring the back.
https://i.imgur.com/tWIMixt.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NuImLsh.jpg
I'm liking the way that's heading, but.....
I have two main concerns:
1. Its still pretty heavy. Despite what I thought earlier, while it's lighter than it was, it's still significantly heavier that the shoegazer body. That guitar is my heaviest and currently apart for some weight reduction as it is.
Deluxester:
https://i.imgur.com/zSyTlNw.jpg?1
Shoegazer (JMA-1) :
https://i.imgur.com/f7BUtJW.jpg?1
2. I'm not entirely sure if its just because I'm removing material and exposing them more, but the cracks in the wood are concerning me. It is kind of par for the course for native timber, which I guess is why there isn't a big foot print using this wood for guitar bodies. I might try some timber mate and see how it looks and if it keeps moving. But yeah, not ideal and starting to make me think that this might be best as a bit of workshop decoration.
At least I know the templates work, and I also know that I can carve up hardwood without too many dramas. I'm going to go back and see the wood guy after Easter, so might start again with some camphor laurel.
I'd be interested in the thoughts of more experienced wood workers than me - do you think I can get away with timbermate and then sealing with Poly.. or should I start again?
https://i.imgur.com/2GkyIZc.jpg
I'm also starting to thing that I'd like to fix the neck further into the body. Sitting with it at the moment with the test neck in, it feels like an SG, with the headstock a long way away. When I was drawing it I was just thinking about best possible upper fret access. But on a 24 fret neck, I think its a bit ridiculous at the moment. I'd also like a bit more meat on the heel pocket, so might be a bit of a redesign in the works, possibly lopping off 2 frets and moving everything 'down a bit' I'll see what I can do with the existing templates, but might need to start again. The radius at the bottom of the neck is a problem at the moment anyway as it's too small to get my router bit in, which means I have to tidy it up with the dremel.
I just looked up the information on the White Mahogany (Eucalyptus Tenuipes) and I'm not surprised that's the weight you're getting. A seasoned density of 950kg/m3 is heavy stuff. The eucalyptus that I've got for my body for my tele build was also heavy (hence the thinline direction for the build) and that has a lower density. An option could be to convert this to a chambered body (like Gibson has done with a lot of Les Pauls) and glue a top on it? That approach would also hide the cracks on the top.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
For the cracks on the back, if timbermate doesn't work maybe you could try resin in the cracks to stop them spreading?
I've found that Eucalyptus is not that tolerant of temperature change. When we came out of the Canberra winter last year into spring and then summer mine ended up with quite a number of cracks starting to appear. I just put titebond into the cracks at the time to stop them spreading which seemed to work and then when I cut out the body shape I cut away the areas with cracks. And I've been keeping the rough cut blank inside the house when I'm not working on it because the temperature is more stable.
Hopefully some others can offer you some more advice. I don't think you should stop on this one even if it just ends up on the wall as your first prototype because it'll give you a lot of information in preparation for production of more. And I think you'll find Camphor much nicer to work with.
I think it was phrozin warned about using Timbermate under paint.
I used it to fill gaps in the tuner dowels on a headstock.
After painting and clear-coat it shrunk, leaving obvious divots in the finish.
cheers, Mark.
That's interesting as it claims to not shrink.
Come to think of it, that was why I asked what 'bog' you used.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
I since found some long forgotten tube in a drawer.
If you are painting over it then it's probably better to use that.
cheers, Mark.
Well I was planning on stain and poly. Not much point in using weird wood if you don't show it off.
I'm thinking I'll just chalk it up as experience and start again with a new template batch and wood blank.
Staining will probably be alright. It's paint that presents a problem.
Doh!! those 'Subliminal Clairvoyant' tapes were a waste of money.
cheers, Mark.