Hi Marc,Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
The best thing with the earth wire is to solder to the spring claw as Sonic said.
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Hi Marc,Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
The best thing with the earth wire is to solder to the spring claw as Sonic said.
Hi MarcQuote:
Originally Posted by Marc T
Not sure but it looks like the anchors are in upside down.
Attachment 28105
I photographed a post to show how the bridge pivot is assembled.
Smooth part in holes first. Then grooved part until anchor is flush with the body.
Posts then screw down as far as needed.
The bridge pivots on the groove in the posts.
Hope tha helps.
Oh good catch, I didn’t even notice. Looks like they will need to come out after all.
If they aren't moving, I wouldn't bother unless the small gap around the edges bothered you. If you keep them in, they'll be more secure than pulling them out and pushing them back in again as the wood won't grip them quite so firmly next time.
Might be a problem leaving them as is. The bridge sits nearly 1 centimetre too high if the anchors are in upside down. They will still be firm if pulled out and re seated.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Thank you so much Sonic mountain and Wazkelly. I really appreciate the help and the pictures really make it clear to me.
In my excitement to put in the posts and move forward i think I put them in upside down as well. I'm not sure if that will really make a difference given that the bridge leans up on the post screws and not the post itself. i'm considering pushing them in all the way until they are flush instead of trying to pull them out and start over.
I'll post a pic of how i think i was supposed to put them in.
I'm really amazed at the support on this site!!
This is how i was supposed to push them in (without the screws)
Somehow I thought they had to go the other way.
I put them in with the narrow side facing up. Not sure if this really matters.
Might leave a gap and cause some shifting if you force them all the way in.
My inclination would be to pull them out and reseat the anchors but you could try it as is and see if the bridge pivots properly and the strings sits low enough to the fret board.
Hi Colin,
Yea I noticed that I put them in upside down. I wonder if it makes much of a difference if i leave them as is. I have a feeling it will be quite difficult to get them out. Thanks for the picture.
Knowing that i put them in upside will drive me crazy so I think I will attempt to pull them out. I'm not entirely sure how to do it without damaging the posts/body.
I have a nail punch that I could try to use to tap the posts from underneath with a hammer. I might try that and see how it goes.
You could search the forum - I have seen others remove posts successfully. Or just ask for advice on post removal and some of the others will provide solutions.
The bridge may not pivot properly as is. You could press on and see how you go as is but removal and reseat might be better.
Been thinking about removing the anchors.
Do an internet search on removing tune-o-matic bushings. The anchors are similar to those on a Les Paul. You should get some useful ideas.
I will do that. I know Simon has a few good suggestions here as well.
I'll let you know how it goes. Cheers!
The other post-removing tips (for Tune-O-Matics) don't apply here as the post holes go all the way through the body and into the trem cavity. Knocking them out from the rear is about the only way to do it.
You can see the post holes appearing at the edges of the trem cavity, here.
Attachment 28108
I wouldn't like to use the small amount of wood remaining to press against using the normal insert-removing method. Very likely to split the wood.
So either knock them out gently from the back, or press them in fully as they are. I'm pretty sure that the post holes are the same diameter all the way down. As long as the internal screw thread runs all the way through the insert then there really is only the slight cosmetic issue. If the screw thread is only for the finned part of the insert, then yes, they certainly will need removing.
No worries Simon,Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I put the posts in upside down so they have to come out anyway!
I'm going to try using a nail punch that i have and gently tap from the bottom where you highlighted in red on the picture. If i see they are coming out slowly i will continue with removal. If not i will push them all the way in and hope that I don't have issues with the bridge.
Hi Marc, you don't need to be able to bottom out a bolt to remove them, just needs to be thought about differently.
Here's a doodle I did for another member. Get a bolt with the same thread as the post receiver and a nut, a flat bit of wood with a hole through it, some blocks and probably something to protect the body. Arrange like the diagram with the bolt screwed into the receiver. Holding the the bolt still with a spanner and 'tighten' the nut. It will push down on the wood/blocks and exert a pulling force on the post receiver. Just be sure to spread the load and put a rag or something on the body to avoid dinging it.
https://i.imgur.com/fzbwz1Dl.jpg
Thanks Sonic, I knew I saw that somewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
This was another that I found on the forum
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...=Cherry+pipper
Oh that's pretty neat - same basic principle.
Here is the easiest way to remove them and I know it works as I had to do it when I replaced a set of inserts.
Take the screw that comes with the inserts, screw it in and put a piece of cardboard or wood or both to protect the top surface. You can use a claw hammer or a small wrecking bar and lever the insert out but once you lift it a small distance I have found you can pull it out with your fingers. If your worried about the tool damaging your screw either get another screw with a hex or round head or use a washer or 2 that just fits over the thread. The good thing is you can adjust the head height so you pull straight up but just take it in little bits at a time. The other way is to screw the head up a little and use the very tip of some needle nose pliers to grab just under the head and use a piece of wood as the fulcrum in the middle of the pliers and push down on the handles and it will pull out easy. To get the right height with both of these ways you may have to use various thicknesses of wood or some thin packers. When you turn it around and press back in just rotate it until you feel it engage in the grooves you have already cut so to keep the insert tight rather than cut another set of tracks.
Hi guys,
last night I tried to gently tap them out from the bottom with a nail punch and it barely moved and i could see it was damaging the posts so i stopped. I'm going to examine all the info you shared tonight when i get home from work. I really appreciate all the time you are all taking to help me!!
I wonder how much it costs to send a few pints of beer from Montreal to Australia ; ) I assume that's where you live.
Looks like we only have fancy pants Cherry pitter's here in Canada. Too bad cause that seems like the easiest method.
Hi Marc,
Have a look at Sonic's diagram. It works the same as the cherry pipper.
I was finally able to remove the inserts.
I ended up using the claw hammer leverage technique suggested by Dikkybee007. I had everything I needed on hand so I thought I would give it a try and it worked great. If probably would not have gone so well if I had not waxed the inserts before putting them in (upside down).
I also found another way that uses the same principal that many of you suggested.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1QXBeHaJcA
Thanks again for all the help!
Well done.
Glad to see you got them out.
I haven't been able to work of this for a while. Been busy with work and my son's activities.
I have now finished the body with 5-6 coats of a water based semi-gloss finish. The bridge has been installed and the neck bolted on. I have also put the copper shielding in.
The next step is the part i am the most uncomfortable with. The soldering!!!
I'm sure i'll have plenty of questions.
I'm trying to make sense of the wiring diagram. My kit seems to be pre-wired differently. I'm thinking that the color of the wires is irrelevant.
In the picture I've attached it looks like the green wire is attached to two different solder points. Is this the case or is it just looped out through one hole and then back in before being soldered on.
Also, from the humbucker i have one white wire that is not attached anywhere. I'll try to post pictures tonight or tomorrow.
Thanks
Here are some pics of the wiring. I'm thinking the white wire from the humbucker came off during shipping. It looks like it should be re-soldered in the first connector spot.
Correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc T
(10chars)
Thanks Scott!
After about 3 and a half months i finally finished the LucaTrem Jag dedicated to my son.
I am really happy with how it turned out. It plays great and sound better than I expected. I didn't think it would stay in tune when I used the trem but somehow it does. I was also pleasantly surprised by the pickups. i was going to change them but now i'm not sure anymore.
Everything is stock except the tuners which i upgraded.
There are still a few minor things to work out. As far as I can tell they wired it as a right handed guitar instead of a lefty. i had to redo some of the work and now everything works except the tone pots. I'll have to try and figure that out.
I will b changing the crappy plastic nut and also swap the cheap string trees for roller string trees.
A big thank you to everyone that helped out. I learned a lot form all of you.
A few more!!
Very impressive. Glad it’s turned out so well for you.
Yeah that has come up great. The white pick guard on the grey really works well.
Looks great Marc. Very nice finish.
I know what you mean with the electrics. Had the same issues.
I also replaced the nut with a TUSQ lefty for a strat. Just needed to sand it down slightly.
Looks great!
Thanks Colin,
Out of curiosity what did you have to do to get the tone pots working?
Hi MarcQuote:
Originally Posted by Marc T
On mine the active wire was soldered to the outside lug. I moved it to the centre lug and also removed some stray solder that was earthing to the case.
The photos on page 2 of my build diary show the tone pots correctly soldered.
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...?t=7789&page=2
That's really going to help!!
Thanks again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by colin2121