looks great
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looks great
As the two humbuckers will be pushed that bit closer together by having 24 angled frets, you'd probably want to pick pickups with different characteristics rather than having two of the same type, otherwise you'll notice a much smaller difference in sound when switching between the two positions.
You may want to space your control knobs and selector switch out a little bit more as they look a little bit tight to me.
Also, the volume knob is a fair way back, so isn't placed for quick volume adjustments with your hand. All depends if you find the volume knob position on a Strat useful, or you find it gets in the way and you keep knocking it. At the moment it's roughly equivalent to the neck volume knob position on a Les Paul.
Your bottom E string doesn't look like it will have the straightest string pull over the nut. Top E looks pretty straight, so having the strings bunch up a bit at the headstock will look a bit odd. I'd suggest checking the string paths and maybe moving the lower tuners to the right slightly, and widening the headstock appropriately.
The bridge looks a bit too offset with respect to the centreline. The difference in radius between say a 0.010" string and a 0.048" string is 0.019" or 0.5mm, in order to get the strings running parallel to the sides of the neck. Your offset looks to be nearer 1mm. You'll undoubtedly position it empirically, but you may as well get it right now, in case it does affect the overall guitar geometry slightly, as you are using the sides of the bridge for the neck layout.
Can you show the neck pocket outline and confirm the neck shape at the pocket end? To me, assuming it's a fairly standard bolt-on neck, the pocket doesn't appear to provide much support on the treble side, and you could probably only fit one screw on that side unless the neck itself was elongated beyond the end of the fingerboard. Or is that whole centre section up to the bridge part of the neck and it''s all bolted in, with the bridge fixed on the end of the neck?
If you made the hook part of the headstock out of steel, you could use it to take the caps off beer bottles.
Good point, I haven’t done a lot of research on MS specific pups as yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I will continue to play with my knobs, I’m not entirely sure if I am going to retain the in line arrangement.
There is some tidy up work to do on bridge alignment, yes, I am still playing with this as my Adobe skills are not quite there yet.
im pretty confident on the string pull over the nut, that seems the line up quite well in the full plan.
The pocket profile is going to be similar to the IB-5 I have underway. It will bulge out rather than go square as a traditional strat. The lines between the bridge and neck are indicators only, it will be a “Traditional” bolt on arrangement.
Bottle opener eh? Hmmmm.....
all good points, this is a reduced diagram, the actual AI document has the neck pocket mapped out with four ferrules. There will be epoxy mounted threaded inserts in the neck heel for the M6 Button head capscrews.
I presume the multiplicity is is all down to Igor, whilst the fun is all down to you. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Back to build(s) present, rather than build(s) future.
So with the family equipping the lab with a band saw, we have made rather short work of roughing out the mahogany body. It left me with little more than 3-5mm to get down to shape for sanding.
I had template mounted, and proceeded to start a couple of router passes.
I went top down across the template to start with, this got me about 25mm down the body side before I ran out of depth on my plunge.
I flipped the work piece around and changed out to a brand new 2” x 1/2” follow bit, and started to remove the remaining 10mm lip.
Then, DISASTER..
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...217655d8b8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ed97fc6eec.jpg
I went a little too far in the cut before coming back the other direction and it grabbed quite badly. You can see the splintering, and the minor surgery I did to circumvent the problem.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...67b1fe7f8c.jpg
As I’ve oodles of offcut from the same blank I decided that trying t glue chips in and fill was gong to be painful, so I am going to graft in another chunk of similar grain.
The plan was always to paint the rear of this body, so now that’s a no brainer.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a857cee4a4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cdfe7eb171.jpg
There was one other incident. When routing, with a unit that has a plunge or depth locking lever, double check your depth, and the lock with every cut.
As I rounded the top horn, the lock slipped, the bearing retreated and left me with this,
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...beb142edba.jpg
I can adjust it once I have the body finalised and the tenon final routed, but there were many bad words uttered. Many many bad words.
So it is slowly coming together, next trick is to shape the heel and tenon on the neck, then jig up for routing the body mortise.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ea5229962f.jpg
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Man, routers huh? I feel your pain. The are awesome until they really aren’t. Shame it ate the template as well.
Still, looks like you’ll recover ok.
Yes, better the wood, and the template, than any part of me......Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
I have another full body template of this PRSish style, I’d not cut an MDF template as I’d been concentrating on the chambering. Probably should have done.
I am going to investigate the locking mechanism on my router, but standard process now will be double check settings after every cut and plan bout cuts better.
Still, it’s an opportunity to try out something else I’ve seen Erlewine do, and see if I can get it to work for me. The body back and sides were always going to be a dark colour anyway. Is all an experiment anyway!
Dude, I just tried to rout my headstock and had a tear out too, many many bad words.
Alternative - recessed controls off the face of the guitar? From the look of it, they would be on the top of the guitar as you look down while playing...
Time for some Japanese Kintsugi and making a feature of the errors?
They will be face mounted per Experiment number 2. The recessing won’t be as severe as there is only a 10mm top plate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendan
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Wabi sabi? Not familiar with kintsugi, will need to study.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
It is a relatively moot point though as over night this happened:https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b1a7b2e893.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a5d55e1242.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c7a7f35e38.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5aa4ef5bc0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9d296f28c2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...37951645cf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...348a31ff26.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1c6a41624e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f97907c24f.jpg
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Nice patch! Kintsugi is usually used in regards to pottery. If a piece breaks it is repaired, often with gold to fill the cracks, to make the repair a feature of the piece - like this:
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...yvvSPUYHNEonUO
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
oh okay, not sure I can afford the gold for Kintsugi. I’ll do it with timbermate....skintsugi.
I’ll shut the door on my way out.....
https://i.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/...97/718/c5f.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Well fixed sir!
So in the spirit of trying to get as many things done as possible in the stolen moments I have, there was some hurly Burly happening in the lab this afternoon.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f1ebd422ad.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6bbe174b1a.jpg
The mahogany base is 37.5 mm, the burl cap is 20mm which should leave a nice margin for a carve and a tapering toward the neck pocket.
At this point due to some of the earlier whoopsie moments in the build, the rear will be black, which should highlight the beech laminate neck (assuming that is is stable enough after shaping).
I’m going to attempt to pare down some of the left over burl for a HS faceplate. That may not work given the nature of the burl, but we’ll have a crack at any rate.
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Wow, very nice. I thought hurly burly was what happened after a very big night? I'm glad I was wrong!
Holy moly! What’s the burl, FW?
Burls just wanna have fun.
Red river gum DMQuote:
Originally Posted by dozymuppet
That's some nice burl FW
Thanks JH, I’ve a couple of 10mm book matched slices left over for something else. Probably be an RGish something or otherQuote:
Originally Posted by JohnH
What do anticipate the body weighing in at with the Red Gum cap?
Still pretty hefty even with the weight-relieved Mahogany, no?
Regardless, it'll be really pretty polished up!
What are you going to fill the cracks in the burl with?
And will you do that before you start shaping the top to help prevent pulling off chunks around the cracks?
The intention is to use epoxy, though I’m not sure if I want to go with just a clear, or a black/dark coloured version.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
many other tasks to address before I get there though.
I’ve thinned down an off cut of the burl for a headstock plate, so I’ve got to reduce the headstock thickness and then attach that. Given that it’s only a couple of mm think it will likely need epoxy treatment also.
I will likely weigh it rough to get an idea. Just have to find where Igor hid the scales….Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Hey FrankenWashie, I was wondering if by any chance you might have some spare pieces of rosewood lying around that's about 2mm thick?, I need some for some restoration work I'm doing on my Cherry Red PRS SE Custom 24 guitar, I need to re-build the nut-shelf back to where it originally was so I can install a proper PRS nut on the guitar, I have since abandoned the whole idea of installing a Floyd on it and I want to restore it back to what it was when I first bought it, with a PRS style trem-system on it.
If you don't have any rosewood, any wood that looks similar to my PRS SE C24's fretboard will do, as long as it's about 2mm thick, here's a pic of my SE C24's fretboard for reference:
Attachment 43330
Hi Doc, I can have a hunt through my small scraps box (when I find it, a lot of stuff is still displaced from water ingress to the lab).Quote:
Originally Posted by DrNomis_44
I’m pretty sure I’ve got something suitable
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Cheers mate, I'm not in a real hurry for it so it's not terribly urgent cause I've got plenty of other stuff to work on but if you can find something suitable that would be awesome.
Water ingress? You weren't affected by the Sydney floods were you, or was it 'just' a roof leak or something?
A faulty sump pump in the basement, created a small flooding issue through the labQuote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Could have been worse I suppose, but still, commiserations.
Did Igor mishear your instructions and fixed the stump pump (obviously used when cutting off arms and legs) instead?
Yes, on the plus side it did highlight a couple of areas of concern I’d not noted before. More things to fix!Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
So I decided that the headstock face needed to reflect the burl.
So with some judicious bandsaw, ryoba saw and thickness planer work we ended up with a 2mm slice of red gum burl for that.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...86ea52a2ec.jpg
The burl cap still has some flattening work required as there are some band saw marks and furrows in it.
I’d roughly mapped out the neck tenon on the neck blank, I need to adjust this and finalise it so that I can add the material to build up the neck heel.
Once the neck heel blank is in place, I can start to map out the heel and the tenon properly on the neck.
Once the burl cap is flattened, I can prep it for epoxy fill. Then fix it to the back. Then I can trim and rout the edge of the cap to match the back, map out the mortise neck pocket and the carve profiles for the taper to hide the 3 degree neck angle etc etc.
Nearly finished eh!?
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You're just one step away from stringing it up!
Sounds like a plan!
You gots skills mate!
Good to see ya givin it a burl!
Giving it multiple burls Rabbit😉Quote:
Originally Posted by Rabbit