How many top coats have you done? Might need to do a light wet sanding session with 1200 grit W & D paper to take it back far enough (not too far) for stains to do their thing.
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How many top coats have you done? Might need to do a light wet sanding session with 1200 grit W & D paper to take it back far enough (not too far) for stains to do their thing.
It's had 3 coats & yes was thinking light sanding with 1,000 grit. Hadn't thought of wet sanding though. Good idea I think. I think it's dry enough to start sanding this arvo. Watch this space for results
Fingers crossed for you.
Thanks mate
Yes DT does take a long time to dry, but it also feels “clingy” for a while, even when it is cured. It kind of needs a bit of playing smooth this out.
3 years on and the DT finish is still quite fragile on both Explorers, even under many layers of Tru Oil. Must take forever to harden up.
Minor victory!
Manged to rub off the final coats with out going through the veneer.
Started with wet 1000 grit but found it wouldn't touch it so went with 400 dry & finished with 800 dry. (Also the veneer started to lift during the wet sand. Luckily it has settled as it has dried)
The neck & back of the body I attacked with 400.
Will leave it to dry from the wet sanding for a few days before I try the base coat.
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Have applied 2 coats of Dingo stain. 1st coat went ok but took 2 weeks to dry even though the weather is warming up. The 2nd coat went on a week ago. This one seemed to sit on top & even has some small runs in even though I tried to keep it thin. I was thinking that I would apply an intensifying coat next but I'm concerned that it may not penetrate. Any advice?
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Fickle stuff......looks like it will need more time between coats to cure properly.
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If you are getting runs in a stain coat it sounds like there was too much stain in the second coat.
Finally finished
Except for the hassles with the Dingotone it came together quite well
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Great work, well done!
I like it a lot. Not as dramatic as the original intended colour but beautiful all the same. Well done!
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Looks great! Sucks that the Dingotone was a pain in the arse to work with, but you've done well to keep that veneer intact and get a beautiful end result. I actually really dig the strawberry blonde look.
Really great work man
A few days after I finished the build I noticed the neck pocket wasn't centred correctly, so in frustration I put it in the rack with the rest of the guitars.
Now I'm thinking it can be fixed by taking the side out of neck pocket to move it across to centre it & shim the other side.
Question is : The screw holes in the neck will need to be re-drilled & as I'm only moving the neck across about 1mm I will need to fill the existing holes with something.
I'm thinking an epoxy resin or filler.
Has anyone done this? or Has anyone got any suggestions?
Cheers
Ron
Hi Ron,
if you are going to re drill the neck heel, i would probably drill to existing holes out larger, then use dowel and wood glue to plug them.
If you try and use epoxy or a filler, then you may have issues getting it to fill all the way down the hole, which might leave voids and weaken the bite of the screws.
The res of your plan is sound, you just need to be very accurate on the repositioning and shimming is all.once you’ve got the neck sat where it should be, assess what needs to happen with the neck he’ll and work accordingly.
Looks great despite the issue, nicely done!
Thanks for the reply FranenWashle
My concerns with dowelling is - will wood glue be strong enough & will the screws pull out of the dowel as they will be in the end grain?
I'm considering using an epoxy resin that I've used to repair my boats, which is strong when it dries but is quite thin & runs every where before it cures. So it should run into all the crevices & maybe using a syringe to insert it in the screw holes.
The neck is moving across approx. 1.5mm so when the screws are reinstalled they would mostly be in the original wood of the neck.
Happy to be wrong!
What do you think?
I've done this with 3 or 4 now and I'm yet to have a problem with pull out in the dowel (nothing like tempting fate!)Quote:
Originally Posted by doubleedge
.
I tend to make them a tight fit, and notch the sides before i put them in to allow for glues to penetrate and grip.
OK you've convinced me I'll give a go.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Thanks for your help
Cheers Ron
Well it's back together & happy with the end result
Strings are running parallel to the edge of the fret board. It also fixed the string height issue it had on the treble side & made the whole thing much nicer to play
I use the body stain to colour the shim. I just hope it fades the same as the body did!
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yep, that looks the business now. You'll find that the shim will probably stay a darker tone, but it doesn't show up terribly unless you're poring over the guitar in detail. Good fix up mate!
Thanks for your help FrankenWashie
I'm really happy with the result
De Nada bro, just living up to the purpose of the Forum eh? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by doubleedge