Just bought some of these...speaking of extra parts. I have a 4 point bass bridge I might use at some point...Quote:
Originally Posted by fender3x
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Just bought some of these...speaking of extra parts. I have a 4 point bass bridge I might use at some point...Quote:
Originally Posted by fender3x
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After looking at the problems faced with using standard parts but not knowing what the actual hole sizes of where you want to put the insert and after looking at what can be bought online, could you have gotten a custom insert made? I know if I was still working, depending on hole size, I could have modified a standard 316 Stainless bolt and polished what you see on top so it looked like chrome and will never rust or just made a complete new one. Just drill and tap what thread was needed in the middle of the 316 bolt as most of the time they use standard threads. Just use a bolt that has the same thread as the internal thread with a fibre washer so it doesn't mark the exposed face, a normal washer to stop the nut from marking the top surface when turned and 2 nuts to lock against each other to screw it into the body so there is no need for a slot or hex drive. Screwing the insert in is much easier than trying to hammer an insert in especially with hollow/semi hollow.
Could there be a section made in the forums where people could ask if someone could mod/make a particular part for a guitar project? Obviously materials and postage would have to be paid for by the person who wants the item but with the community we have I am sure some may be interested as they have the skills and machinery. I don't see a part of the forum that covers this, unless I am blind, and was just a thought.
Just got the inserts from Amazon...
Attachment 24515
One of my failed experiments was to purchase this cool two-point Korean bridge...which was too wide for the center block in my ESB-4 kit...<ahem!>
Put the new insert on the left and the standard insert on the right. The new one is about an inch (25mm) long, and is definitely what I will use if I put this bridge on something. Came in a pack of 10 for under $7.
It looks a bit narrower than the standard insert, so you'd probably want to drill your own bridge post holes. You want the whole of the insert to be in contact with the wood, not just the tips of the threads, otherwise they'd work loose pretty quickly. (I know that you know this, Fender3x - just elaborating for any others who might read this).
It's a shame that you don't seem to be able to get M8 (or the slightly smaller imperial post size) inserts any longer than 1"/25mm, as 1.25"/30mm would be a nice size to use in other possible pull-out situations.
It's less important for a bridge-only fitting, as almost all the force is downwards (which is why Gibson could get away with short thin posts that screwed directly into the wood on their ABR style tune-o-matic bridges). It's the stop-tails and wrap-around bridges that have all the sideways force on them.
Dickybee007, that's certainly a good idea, though would a standard bolt (the hole size on my bass is about 10.3mm in diameter) have wide enough threads to grip the wood firmly enough? These specialist thread things have extra-wide threads to help grip the wood to give extra protection against pull-out, so it would be nice to work out a suitable test to compare the tendency of the hex inserts against a standard bolt thread to pull-out over time.
Looks are certainly an issue in some situations. My Hipshot bridge covers up the inserts as it sits right on top of them, but in other situations, they are going to be exposed. That's where the hex inserts fall down.
The Kluson 1.25" bushings arrived today. Only 6 days since ordering from the US, which is nice.
Attachment 24521
A lot longer than the standard bushings, it measures exactly 1.25" long, as it should do. It's an imperial size bushing, so I need to use the smaller diameter bolts (1/4"?) that came with the bridge instead of the M8s that fitted the kit bushing.
Also, it's slightly wider (1/2"), so I need to drill out the post holes a bit (I needed to make the holes slightly deeper anyway). But I only have metric drills, so have now ordered a 1/2" bit. About 1.3mm difference in the overall diameter (splines included) so too much to risk to not drill wider and then possibly having the wood split (or having too much resistance to push it in fully once it was in part way).
It just seems odd that no guitar parts mfg has developed a threaded insert for this purpose. You would think they'd have at least as much ingenuity as IKEA...
I think 25mm might be enough with threaded inserts, Hopefully 30mm will be enough with splines.
I can't see any better alternative, for all the reasons you say above.
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Replacement pickups arrived today. Swearing was involved.
Attachment 24532
Attachment 24533
Not as bad as the first set, but totally unacceptable. Obviously SD have an assembly and QA problem, but I can't believe the store, Guitar Guitar, didn't check before sending these out. I have sent the obligatory email, but I also copied in Rosetti, the UK distributor.
It looks like whoever SD use to fit the covers on has long hard thumbnail and is using that to press the cover into place, moving along the pickup and damaging them in the process.
I await a response.
Wow. Once, maybe. Twice, no.
At least they're fulfilling the consistency aspect of QA. It may not be good, but at least they're all the same.
It's a good thing I haven't tried to rout the body for the pickups yet, for if all of them come like this, then I'm getting my money back and am going to have to rethink the pickup selection.
It would be the icing on the cake if they send out a replacement and they're the wrong pickups.
Simon----->:mad:
Wise to get your money back. If the pickups came fine next time who knows what else might be a problem.
I ran into these guys a few years ago when I was looking at a rewind doe a dead G&L pickup. Good prices and a pretty interesting stock... I found them really easy to deal with, and since you are routing anyway...
http://www.sentellpickups.net
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"We checked them before they were sent out and were fine. It must have happened in transit".
Yeah, like something could have made those marks yet left the thick plastic case wrapped in bubble-wrap unmarked. I don't think so. I think they didn't open the case to have a good look and reflections on the case hid the marks.
I've asked for pictures of the actual pickups out of the box before they send any replacements. If they won't play ball, then it's money back time and a set of Bartolini soapbars (but which ones - lots of numbers but the sound descriptions are all the same?).
I'd just give up on the SDs. I really resent paying US hand made prices for cheap Chinese knock off quality control...
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Did you check out the Sentell site? He has some univox drop in pups that might be a cool vibe. Also some side-wound soapbars with jazz pole-pieces in the middle. He offered to do something custom for me, and I know he does that regularly. Even custom will be less than off-the-shelf SDs or Bartolinis. Might be worth asking him to do exactly what you want. I know you're not trying to save money, but it might be cool to do something totally custom...
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The trouble is I have no real idea what totally custom pickups I'd want. They would end up very similar to the SDs. I have looked at the site. The problem is that by the time I add international postage, then add 23% for UK sales tax and import duty, plus the UK post office handling charge, I'd be looking at a similar price to the SDs, and more than a set of the Bartolinis that I've currently earmarked as the 1st alternative choice.
Ahh.... (picture my inner cheapskate recoiling in horror).
Wish I could be more help with the Bartolinis. I have never used any. On the website they seem to sort by shape. If there's a shape you like, you might see if you can hear a few on youtube. That worked pretty well for me choosing a set of passive P+J pickups... My quick look at youtube is that this is somewhat complicated with Bartos because they are so often coupled with a pre-amp.
Just got my internet back so sorry for the delay.
The only problem with the knurled inserts is you can push them in and pull them back out but due to the extra length they maybe harder to lever out but a threaded insert would have the least likely hood of being pulled out and would be achieved with a shorter insert. A standard M12 bolt has a minor diameter slightly smaller than the 10.3 hole but it is a fine thread and I feel that there maybe too much wood displaced and may push the top face up. Maybe to help you could tap the hole out first which would make the bolt fit tightly or maybe file a flat on each side of the thread to allow it to cut its own thread. I would probably go for a 1/2" whitworth thread as they are a courser thread and again you could tap the hole or use 2 flats or maybe 1 flat. Problem would be using the M8 threads as it only leaves about just less than 1mm side wall thickness so the hole through the middle would have to be smack on .The minor diameter is a lot smaller than 10.3 but the major diameter is 0.7mm larger than the M12 . Could be made smaller by using a electric drill and a file on slow speed to reduce the outside or maybe even use a square file to open the threads up so instead of a 55 degree included angle you increase them to possibly 90 and that would decrease the outside diameter. Have done that out in the field a few times for worn or rusted bolts.
You can always try it with a piece of scrap first but in the past I have used similar home made items. Biggest problem is putting the hole through the middle without a lathe but not impossible as long as you have a drill press and a vice, easy as. Just make sure if you machine stainless it is at a slow speed otherwise you can risk hardening the item and ruining your tools. It is a lot harder than buying an insert but seeing as you are having a problem with inserts you could make exactly what you want and it would be quicker than the time in postage. And to me its a bit of fun and makes me think a little bit now that I haven't got the tools I used to have.
This is great - it would never have occurred to me to think of doing something like this
Current pickup situation is that Guitar Guitar have ordered another set and will film an unboxing for me when they arrive to prove they are unblemished (or not) before arranging a swap with the current damaged items. The UK distributor for Seymour Duncan (Rosetti) apparently are most unhelpful and won't take pictures of the replacement set before they leave their warehouse (which would save a lot of time if the set they send out are again faulty - which they well could be). Seymour Duncan have yet to respond to my email to them, so I won't be buying or recommending any Seymour Duncan pickups in the future.
I hope this time it works out, but have been thinking about what to do if it does not. One that I considered...
At one time it was not uncommon for to see DiMarzzio X2N-B in basses. Quite a few guitar players used them too although they were designed for bass. It's not in their regular lineup anymore, but you can get them from the custom shop, and it's relatively easy to find them on eBay. I didn't find a link on YouTube do a bass player using them, but they were common enough there should be some...
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Forgot to mention that I have gotten great service from DiMarzio.
I also hear good things about Kent Armstrong pickups, but I've never used them...
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Duesenburg sell bass humbuckers. I'm sure they would be tasty.:D
Lots of clips of Duesenbergs on semi hollows on YouTube...
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Only guitar ones from my searches.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dedman
they hide them
https://www.rockinger.com/index.php/...ickups/l-WG105
But hide them very well indeed in Duesenberg's own store! https://store.duesenberg.de/en/pickups/?p=1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GPa0c-XDuEQuote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XwXCf44zopE&t=24s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SkPe78DBGEk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18HNBG64N8o
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDUwa_M42YM
Not all great, but all Duesenberg "humbucker" size. Most on their "Starplayer" bass.
Well, it looks like I may finally be getting a pristine set of pickups arriving tomorrow. I've been sent pictures of said pickups, so hopefully they get here OK.
On the down side, I finally got round to cutting out a cardboard headstock shape and trying to fit the standard size Hipshot tuners plus the Xtender on, and failing miserably. I just couldn't fit them on without the two bottom edge tuners being really bunched up and the clover leaf 'ears' almost touching whilst the top two tuners could be spaced well apart. To do even that, the tuners had to be right on the edge of the headstock with a lot of ear sticking out.
So they've been put aside and I've bitten the bullet and ordered some of the Hipshot Lite tuners. I've got these on my Lakland bass so I know they are a lot more compact and can fit them on in standard positions. The gear ratio on these is less at 20:1 compared to the 27:1 of the larger Hipshots, but I know mine keeps in tune and if they were good enough for Neil Murray to use for over 500 shows, then they'll be good enough for the chap I'm putting the bass together for.
New pickups arrived today. At last, an unblemished set!
https://imageshack.com/a/img922/3880/KPUXtz.jpg
I've now got no excuse not to learn how to make some templates and rout out some pickup cavities. Apart from the weather, which is currently very cold with some light sleet, and I'm going to need to work outside.
First though I need to get some plywood and other timber to make a cradle for the body and a raised platform to stand over the body that I can rout from. Payday tomorrow!
HI Simon, Check out this from Jason Beams excellent ES 335 builds:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUh8...BTfWa&index=19
Check out the rig he uses from about 21:37, something fairly simple but looks to be quite sturdy.
Very interesting, but in that instance, the jig is built into the guitar top itself - the two locating 'handles' are then cut off once the routing has been done. No chance for that in this build.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Finally got round to addressing the over-wide neck pocket, so am in the process of gluing a maple veneer piece to one side of the pocket. I'll be gluing another piece to the other side tomorrow when this one is dry.
Attachment 24862
Attachment 24862
That should take care of the spacing issue. Looks like you have a similar issue to one I had... The maple I could find was darker than what came in the kit. Fortunately, right next to the fingerboard no one is likely to see it.
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Yes, my maple veneer is slightly more yellow than the top. At least it's the same grain orientation as the top, so it should take up the stain in a similar manner.
Yes but somewhere in there there is a secondary jig that he uses to cut the binding rabbet, it has height adjustable legs to clamp to the body edge. I’ll dig around in his footage and find it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
oooh nice, late on post but great to see the pups arrived in good nick this time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Well, haven't done much on this recently as I've been concentrating on the ES-1/330 build, but I have now done the same with the headstock as I've done to my ES-1 neck. Namely stuck on some veneer, trimmed that back to the headstock shape, routed out a circle in that and stuck in an inlay logo with black superglue (it's round and almost the same size as the disk on the clamp). There is a sheet of clear plastic between the clamp and the glue, which i know superglue hardly sticks to.
Attachment 25165
I'm having to work inside as the weather has turned very cold and snowy here, which is not the best weather for working outside in (only a couple of inches here at the moment but it's worse in most parts of the UK). But I need to work outside to rout out the pup cavities, as there's a limit to how much interior mess my lovely wife can stand.
I've since removed the clamp and filled in the remaining gaps in the inlay with more superglue. Now waiting for that to dry.
Just in case you've forgotten, the kit came with an un-drilled headstock. I'm still awaiting my Hipshot mini-tuners as they didn't have enough of them in stock, so have to wait until the next shipment comes from the states. Then I can lay them out and see where I want to put them for the straightest string pull. I many need to reshape the headstock as a result at the end so I can move the A and D tuners in a bit.
Well the inlay work was close, but no cigar. This is the result on the bass's headstock, which I quickly brush painted black with some acrylic just to get an idea of what it looked like with the proper background.
Attachment 25203
It's almost worked, but I really picked an inlay material with too many dark, almost black, sections. It looks better in the photo than in real life and this is the best viewing angle for it.
The lighter bits look fine, but for the size of the design, the abalone sheet I used has just too many dark areas which break up the logo. I'd also routed out too deep a circle, so the inlay didn't stand slightly proud of the veneer as was my intent, so that I could spray on a some layers of black then sand the whole thing back flat. The abalone would probably work fine with a much bigger design, but not on this scale.
The ES-1 build headstock is the same. :(
So this will get replaced by a similar design, but using some much whiter MOP materiel, which I've just ordered. I may also try cutting out the letters and circle separately. So, hours of more amusement ahead!
That looks amazing Simon! But I see what you mean by “almost worked”, especially with the quality of builds you do and if it only really shines on a certain angle. I look forward to seeing the MOP version.
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MOP is "mother of plastic" right? Here in Miami, poetic folk that we are, it's usually referred to as "mother of toilet seat."
On a more philosophical note, it has been a struggle for me to decide how much cosmetic error tolerate. I have botched a number of things by trying to get the "OK" or even "very good" to be perfect. At some point I decided that I needed to put up with some error if I wanted to be young enough to play the thing when I finished.
Of course, I was building mostly for my own amazement. Simon, your build deserves more care since it will be a playable work of art.
Still, one of my all time favorite guitars is a classical that was built by a new local luthier as an experiment while he was getting his build technique down. It's made of poplar. It is run through with poplar's odd green streaks. It has some visible tool marks, and a couple of slightly misaligned inlays.... But it sounds and plays great, and it stays in tune even in our crazy weather... I have come to love it's cosmetic idiosyncracies.
I know you will get this nearly perfect. So here is my pitch to leave a flaw or two to remind the owner that it this is a unique, handmade work of art and not just another axe made by a well programmed robot.
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