Yep, I paid attention, I had, at first, to buy on a french site but he had very bad reputationQuote:
Originally Posted by chrissyinbkk
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Yep, I paid attention, I had, at first, to buy on a french site but he had very bad reputationQuote:
Originally Posted by chrissyinbkk
Just a question for auspost :
The kit is blocked since Wednesday (day of sending) in the state "Processed through facility" in Perth, is this normal?
Yes mate....probably means it is en route... here we get notification via post it is ready for collection after paying the import duty tax
Yes, there are some delays in shipping due to Christmas. My kit was supposed to arrive 28thDec, still not delivered by Australia Post.
Ok !Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Thanks ;)
Mine was due on 22nd - still somewhere in the West of this cityQuote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
So, I think I’m forced to wait some more weeks [emoji23]
Hello !
The kit is finally here! : D
https://i.imgur.com/S3EGqXW.jpg
After having received it, I looked for some blows or defects on the body and the handle, which I did not find
https://i.imgur.com/TPeGcqC.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2CY4FSf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QYbHQaO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/j71ZyLD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TfUowJ9.jpg
The only flaw being a small trace of glue close to the cavity of the pickups:
https://i.imgur.com/uaDZ11x.jpg
I then tried to make a small "draft" of the guitar:
https://i.imgur.com/BWyvyK3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/k3vpfG3.jpg
But I don't know the place of these pieces:
https://i.imgur.com/9j2QEY7.jpg
I then quickly checked the status of the microphones:
https://i.imgur.com/3q2Qwzt.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FqBUWlb.jpg
And there, I do not know if it's normal, but the humbucker seems a little "dirty":
https://imgur.com/Qn4C25u.jpg[/IMG]
Do you think like me that nothing is missing and that everything is fine?
Have I forgotten to look at something?
If I'm not mistaken, the next step is sanding, for which I have to wait for the package containing the sandpaper, after which I will start for the long road that is the finish of the guitar!
Good day / evening to you all!
Looks like the headstock has received the 'Freddy Krueger' treatment (I wish I could remember the member's name here that coined the expression).
cheers, Mark.
what do you mean ?
if you talk about traits, it does not bother me, it gives a style! Ahah
I think he means the alignment of the tuner holes. Pretty normal unfortunately. Otherwise it looks like a great kit. It all looks normal, the humbucker should be fine.
You will find the pieces in that bag of parts will soon reveal their jobs. The springs are to hold the bridge in and are used as part of the tremolo. Just work through it one thing at a time and you will be fine.
I must ask - are you typing French into a translator or transcribing to English yourself? There are a couple of odd words used - but it still makes sense :)
I do twice
:)
I just translated my post into french and back into english. The result was very funny, but was still mostly accurate.
Cela aide à savoir que c'est ce qui se passe. J'espère que je n'ai pas offensé, toutes mes questions et commentaires sont avec de bonnes intentions.
Don’t worry, there’s no problem ;)
I'm guessing that the Humbucker was wax potted - part of the build process - its a good thing as it will apparently reduce noise. Don't worry about the back of the humbucker.
As for the bag of bits - see below.
There seems to be a separate bag of tuner ferrules and washers as well as the set in the multi-bag. They may both fit the tuners, or else one may fit better than the other set.
I just used google translate. My real word French is limited to asking where the travel information centre is :)Quote:
Originally Posted by colin2121
Not bad ! 😜Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
________________
Should I put putty then sand or reverse?
You will need to sand the excess putty off - so sanding after putty will be needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Volgar
I would do some sanding first to make sure all the shapes and curves of the guitar are correct. It's also helpful for finding any small imperfections that you may want to fix.
Ok thank you ! :) Can you tell me what grade of sandpaper should I use at each step?
Just start with the roughest/coarsest one first. Probably 180 (or close to that)
As much as possible sand in the same direction as the grain. It is difficult around the ends of the guitar.
Once you start you will notice marks from the factory tools. Try and remove these as much as possible with the 180. Avoid sanding in one spot too long. You should aim to evenly sand the whole body. (I haven't done a natural finish as yet, but I think you would be safe to putty after the 180 - somebody may correct me)
Once it feels smooth move onto 240 - as you work with that sandpaper, you will see the scratches you made with the 180. Use the 240 until you can't see or feel the 180 and then move onto the next grade of paper and so on.
This can be a bit boring and its hard work, but the better job you do of it, the better the finish will be in the end.
Ok, thanks,
I do a mistake by buying the filler (who was not one), I think this is better : Wood filler ?
No ?
What grade of sandpaper should I go to before applying the filler?
And after ?
Thanks, Can you say me the higher grade I need to use ?Quote:
Originally Posted by colin2121
I will paint it
Ok, so if you are painting, sand the body with 180. You don't need to be quite as picky with the marks. Then you can probably do the grain fill and sand it back with 180 as well.
My experience is with automotive spraying. I will share what I do, other people may have advice and suggestions.
In Australia we have a couple of different DIY automotive stores that stock a range of spray paint in cans. I am not sure how well this will translate, hopefully it makes sense.
After you have filled the body and sanded back you would spray with an 'Etch Primer' - this bonds to the guitar and also allows paint to stick to it. Do a couple of coats of this. You can sand this with 240 - 320 (or whatever grade you have available close to that)
Next I like to use 'Hi-Fill' or 'Spray putty' This is ideal for removing small marks and scratches. You can spray this in several light coats, leaving about 5-10 minutes in between to build a really thick layer.
Let this dry for as long as possible. I think a week in warm dry weather minimum. Now you can sand this back with 400-600. You should use a firm block with the paper wrapped around it to get a nice flat even surface.
When you are sanding, let the paper do the work. Don't press too hard and change the paper regularly. It will get clogged and wear down.
At this stage you should have a nice flat smooth feeling guitar. It is ok if you sand through to the primer a bit, but not the wood. If you do that you need to prime it again.
Now you need a product called 'Primer surface' or 'Undercoat'. Give it a good coat with that, let it really dry out again and sand with 800-1200
Now you can spray your 'Top Coats' (this is the fun bit). You should make sure all your paint is from the same product range so that it is compatible. If you are doing a solid colour you can just spray multiple coats of that. Leave 48- 72 hours between coats and give it a lift sand with 1200-1500 between. After a few coats give it another really good chance to dry out. A week minimum, but the longer the better for it to get really hard.
If you are doing a metallic. Do the same as above, but do a randomised spray pattern for the metallic coat. Let it get hard and then spray a clear gloss over it. You do not need to worry about sanding the metallic. Build up a good coat of clear and then, the same as above, let it get really hard.
Once the paint is very dry you can cut and polish it. Use 1500 -2000 'Wet and Dry' sandpaper to get the surface really flat. I would use a soft sanding block for this. It will look milky and dull, but should be very smooth. Be careful around any drill holes or openings. Don't let the water get into the wood or it will swell up and ruin the paint job.
Next, use some 'Cutting Compound' to polish up the surface. You can do this by hand, but it is a lot easier with a buffing machine. This is available at automotive do it yourself stores. You should be able to get all the polishes you need there as well.
After you have a uniform finish move to the next grade of polish. I use a 'Cut & Polish' followed by plain 'Polish'.
After that you can use a 'Swirl Remover' and 'Wax' to really make it shiny, but I don't bother as they all get marked up fairly quickly when playing.
After the grain fill you need to seal the wood before you apply any paint or in a couple of months
You will find your paint will sink into the grain.
Second : you are applying far to much paint process to your guitar.
Seal / etch / very thin white primer ( not filler primer )
Only clear coat over metallic or stain as your base colour does not need clear it to can be polished with out clear.
Sanding paint coats to 600 to 800 gritt.
Too many coats of paint just kills your tone and is un necessary.
Also metallic has what is called a flip in the paint, keep in one direction and over lap each line by 50%, only two thin coats should be needed.
Keep you coats super thin ( they cure quicker and more effectively, and if it’s Acrylic or Nitro leave it two to three weeks before you polish it.
Sorry to butt in bro but I had to correct a few things.
All good man. I'm not a trained professional, I've just done it as a hobby for a long time- although it's usually painting bodywork. I expected corrections. I'm very wary of sink back, but have not had any problems with it so far, so long as you give each coat a really good chance to harden before the next it seems fine.
Basswood and tight grain timbers you can get away with it.
Ash etc... pain in the arse
Yeah I learnt that the hard way.
My method is pretty wasteful as I end up sanding off a lot of the paint I apply. But at the same time it makes any goofs easier to fix. I also find that the pressure pack cans don't lay down anywhere near as well as the gun. So I end up doing more coats as insurance. I keep threatening to setup a booth and get my gear out but I still haven't got around to it. Anyway, all good, the best thing about this forum is the cross section of advice available.
Yep, that sounds familiar.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
Wow !
A big thanks for all these details !
So, I just need these 3 products, am I right ?Quote:
Originally Posted by jarrod
To get it ready for the final coats - yes.
Jarrod is very experienced and is working with the correct equipment (go and check out his STA, its gorgeous) he really knows what he is talking about. My method is just what I do, but all his corrections are valid. I put on more paint than I need and sand it back a lot. It takes longer but works for me.
Just be aware getting the hang of spray painting takes practice even with cans, so you are bound to be making mistakes and sanding back. Patience is the key.
Hello !
I am going to start sanding today while waiting for the water filler to arrive!
Since I am very bad at technical English, I wanted to know what I was missing as a product, having:
- Water filler
- Painting (which is also varnished)
Apart from these two products, I only need a primer, is that it?
Here is the body before the beginning :
https://i.imgur.com/MuIVOEN.jpg
After 180 sanding :
https://i.imgur.com/etT3jiH.jpg
After 240 sanding :
https://i.imgur.com/aJLTS9T.jpg
After 320 sanding :
https://i.imgur.com/mW06Cye.jpg
I don't know if I need to work with higher grain, what do you think about it ?
I'm actually waiting my wood filler ! ^^
For the moment, my impressions are that I love to do this, I always love the wood contact, but here, just to make this wood piece become so smooth ! Ahah
I already work with wood, but it was as a scout for living construction (table, boat, bivouac over the water, trapper's hut to spot animals...). It was therefore only the rough work of the saw, the chisel, the mallet, the burrow, etc ... The accuracy of this work, which is still at its beginning, I already like very much !
Some nice grain showing there
Nice start.
Looks like your kit arrived in France faster than mine coming across Australia...
Ahah,Quote:
Originally Posted by churchie
But I think you will not have the "chance" to pay 90 AUD custom tax ! :p
This looks very smooth already Volgar and it is a very good looking grain structure. Nice work!Quote:
Originally Posted by Volgar
Thank you all :)
I asked myself a question, are there things to do to prepare the neck apart the setting?
Hello everybody !
I have a question about the wood primer,
I found one in a DIY store : https://www.cultura.com/montana-400m...500376313.html
Do you think it can works ?
My paint is a nitrocellulose one, but the varnish is for acrylic paint so I asked myself if I can buy it !
Here's a translation of the description :
I also have a second question, in relation to the wood filler, how many layers do I have to put and at what interval?Quote:
The Montana Primer Universal Primer spray facilitates adhesion of acrylic paints to substrates.
This universal primer will work equally well on leather, cardboard, wood and many other materials than on non-primed paper or canvas. Preparing your support is essential to ensure a good life of your creations. In order to avoid disastrous air bubbles, it is recommended to apply several layers of primer.
Montana Universal Primer Primer is packaged in a 400ml aerosol spray.