Alex's IB-7

Fret 24. It's your last fret, so as long as fret 23 plays OK, then there's nothing to really worry about. Those last upper frets aren't affected by any truss rod adjustments, so just try to get them all as level as you can. if frets 21, 22 and 23 are level, then the blade should slide across to 24 without hitting it. It doesn't matter if the last fret is slightly lower than the others, you just don't want it higher.

If I'm levelling the whole fretboard, I tend to try and put a very slight downward slope (say from 20th to the 24th in your case) on those last few frets so that there's no risk of any bent strings on those upper frets choking out. I find this quite useful on smaller radius boards, though it's less important as the fretboard radius increases and the board is flatter.

Thankies! Would you advise starting from the head end of the fret board, or the body end?

Just did my first fret crowning!

https://imgur.com/8NHX2dq

I bought a proper crowning file from the pit bull store to use for this. I understand the shape of the file means that the crowned fret retains its curvature, but is there anything else I need to do to prevent the fret from going flat at the top?

The crowning file should be curved enough. I then use some wet 'n' dry paper (dry) to remove the file marks (normally P320 to P400 depending on how deep any scratches are, then go up the grades of Micromesh (1500 to 12000) to really get the fret smooth.

I use an offcut of top E string to drag along the top of the fret when using the sandpaper. If there are any scratches left, you'll feel the string pulling as it passes over. Once nothing happens, then start on the Micromesh. Alternately if you haven't got Micromesh pads or cloth, run through the grades to sandpaper up to P2000 or P2500, then rub the frets with some 0000 wire wool. This is a bit messier and the wire wool dust gets everywhere, so tape over pickups etc.

It never hurts to then use some metal polish on the frets.

You'll find the frets look a lot more rounded once they are polished. They can look a bit flat on the top when just filed.

Thanks for your advice!

Just wondering, is fretboard levelling usually an iterative process? I've gone from fret 24 to fret 1, but I've found that some of my filing has caused other frets not to be quite level any more. So I've gone back to 24 and started making my way down again.

Well, not in my attempts. Have you just used a crowning file? You'd normally run a flat-bottomed fret levelling file all along the top of the frets first, having first marked the top of each fret with something like a Sharpie pen, filing until all the Sharpie marks have gone from the top of the frets. Then you use the fret crowning file, then run through the polishing grit sandpapers/micromeshes.
I try and count the number of strokes with the crowning file and do the same number on each fret. The same with the sandpapers. It's not perfect but it does keep the frets pretty much the same height.

Yeah, I was just using the crowning file. I think I may have got confused - I didn't realise there was a fret levelling file. I might get myself one of those :)

You can use a flat beam with sandpaper stuck to it with double-sided tape if you want a more DIY approach. You need it at least 15-20cm long, so that it will always bridge several frets at the headstock end of the neck.

I use a spirit level about 30Cm long which obviously has a machined face and stick a length of low tack masking tape to the level and another piece of low tack tape stuck to the sanding paper then super glue the two bits of masking tape together.

Use a fairly fine grit and only use the weight of the level you don't need to lean on it at all.

Then recrown & polish etc

Thanks for the advice!

Imma back :P (have been very slowly working on the guitar over the last couple of months)

Start wet sanding at about 1000 grit wet and dry paper, then work up to 1200 then 2000. If your local hardware store doesn't carry these finer grades; an auto accessory store will have them.

This is what my manual says. Pardon my ignorance - when I use wet and dry sandpaper, what is the "wet" part and how does that work?

Hi buddy, welcome back. Gotta know what's the cat doing with his head stuck in the middle of a piece of bread???

Wet sanding is when you dip the Wet & Dry sandpaper in water so that it lubricates things and prevents the paper from clogging and wearing out quickly as that is what happens when used dry. Best to add a drop of dish washing detergent (morning fresh, palmolive, etc) as that helps to soften the water, same as conditioner in shampoo for hair.

I would start with 1200 grit, then step up to 1500 and eventually 2000. 1200 can be bought at any large big box hardware store but you will need to go to an auto accessory store for 1500 & 2000....think Autobarn, Bursons, Supercheap, etc.

I guess the cat is just being a gigantic dork as cats sometimes do :PPPPP

Aha, that makes sense! Thanks for clarifying mate :)

One more question! I went to an auto store to look for a cutting compound and polish. The workers at the shop weren't sure what could be used on a wooden guitar body. What kind of product is recommended? Thanks!

Meguiars ultimate compound.
I also use Nu Finish as a final stage which makes a huge difference to the shine, swirl or scratch marks and also helps shiny glossy finishes not feel so sticky & grippy.

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Hi buddy, welcome back. Gotta know what's the cat doing with his head stuck in the middle of a piece of bread???

Wet sanding is when you dip the Wet & Dry sandpaper in water so that it lubricates things and prevents the paper from clogging and wearing out quickly as that is what happens when used dry. Best to add a drop of dish washing detergent (morning fresh, palmolive, etc) as that helps to soften the water, same as conditioner in shampoo for hair.

I would start with 1200 grit, then step up to 1500 and eventually 2000. 1200 can be bought at any large big box hardware store but you will need to go to an auto accessory store for 1500 & 2000....think Autobarn, Bursons, Supercheap, etc.

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Its an in-bread cat.

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Meguiars ultimate compound.
I also use Nu Finish as a final stage which makes a huge difference to the shine, swirl or scratch marks and also helps shiny glossy finishes not feel so sticky & grippy.

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

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Sorry Waz, I think I've asked you this before and have forgotten your answer, but how are you applying the Meguirs? Are you using some kind of buffing tool? Or by hand?

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Originally Posted by JohnH

Sorry Waz, I think I've asked you this before and have forgotten your answer, but how are you applying the Meguirs? Are you using some kind of buffing tool? Or by hand?

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Don't have any buffing tools and applying by hand after doing a thorough wet sand with 1500,2000 then all the micro mesh pads up to 12.000. Once 'as smooth as' after doing all the wet sanding, dry the body and then apply a liberal amount, not too much, of meguiars so that you can get an even spread on surface you are working, then simply rub hard with an open weave cloth (chux) and eventually it goes cloudy as it dries. Next step is to grab a clean microfibre polish cloth (can be bought at Super Cheap) and do your best at buffing by hand. Repeat on the other side and then work your way around the sides and curves.

I have used Brasso a bit in the past but it is very abrasive and burns in really quickly so you need lots of layers to sacrifice if using that stuff. Had a spare bottle of Nu Finish and on the Swampy Tele had a crack with some on it and was blown away with how well it came up that I have used it on the ES1 & MMB4 too.

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Originally Posted by FrankenWashie

Its an in-bread cat.

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Comedy gold right there!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Meguiars ultimate compound.
I also use Nu Finish as a final stage which makes a huge difference to the shine, swirl or scratch marks and also helps shiny glossy finishes not feel so sticky & grippy.

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

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Thanks! Appreciated

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Originally Posted by FrankenWashie

Its an in-bread cat.

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OMG this is fucking goooooooold :cool:

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Originally Posted by AlexL

OMG this is fucking goooooooold :cool:

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I cannot be the only one who thought of it, and if I was, it’s Igor’s fault.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Don't have any buffing tools and applying by hand after doing a thorough wet sand with 1500,2000 then all the micro mesh pads up to 12.000. Once 'as smooth as' after doing all the wet sanding, dry the body and then apply a liberal amount, not too much, of meguiars so that you can get an even spread on surface you are working, then simply rub hard with an open weave cloth (chux) and eventually it goes cloudy as it dries. Next step is to grab a clean microfibre polish cloth (can be bought at Super Cheap) and do your best at buffing by hand. Repeat on the other side and then work your way around the sides and curves.

I have used Brasso a bit in the past but it is very abrasive and burns in really quickly so you need lots of layers to sacrifice if using that stuff. Had a spare bottle of Nu Finish and on the Swampy Tele had a crack with some on it and was blown away with how well it came up that I have used it on the ES1 & MMB4 too.

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Thanks Waz - just had a crack at the Meguires and it worked really well

Hi! I abandoned this project for a few years but I have decided to have another crack (good luck, me)

I have a maple neck. The manual says

Rosewood and Ebony are usually left bare and given a coat of lemon oil or Dingotone Guitar Wax. Maple boards can be given a clear coating of Dingotone (neck kit) or Tru Oil to seal them.

But in the shop, Tru Oil and Dingotone neck kit are out of stock. Dingtone guitar wax is in stock https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...ne-guitar-wax/ - is this OK or is it best to just get some Tru Oil from another source (e.g. a gunshop)

I do not recommend using wax on a maple fretboard, and I'd consider yourself lucky the Dingotone is out of stock...

You can get Tru Oil from a gun shop if you want a Tru Oil finish, but there are more options than just DT & TO. Those just happen to be the two products PBG normally stock.

The most popular DIY products besides Tru Oil, are polyurethane and lacquer. Polyurethane can be purchased as a wipe-on product or in spray cans as well as in a satin or gloss finish and can be water based or oil based. Lacquer, both acrylic or nitrocellulose can be purchased in spray cans but tends to be more expensive (especially nitro). This is presuming you don't have a compressor and spray gun to mix and spray a solvent based finish.

Oil based poly can be diluted with mineral turps to make it a consistency which can be wiped on and is significantly cheaper than store-bought "wipe-on poly".

There are other products, but I have just hit the top of the list for you.

OK - thanks for the advice! So maybe something like https://www.bunnings.com.au/cabot-s-...rnish_p1520455 would be a good optiom (possibly diluted)?

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Originally Posted by AlexL

OK - thanks for the advice! So maybe something like https://www.bunnings.com.au/cabot-s-...rnish_p1520455 would be a good optiom (possibly diluted)?

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That's what I use on my maple necks except that I use it in a spray gun. You can mix it 50/50 poly/turps and use it as a wipe-on though. I have also done that prior to getting spray equipment.

I have also done satin on the back and fretboard, then gloss on the front of the headstock. AND you even apply satin all over, then wet sand and polish the front of the headstock to gloss. Doing this creates a very different effect than using a proper "gloss poly" because the satin still contains a higher level of solids within it, but the surface is shiny. I kind of like it, but it's not everybody's cup of tea.

Amazing - thank you McCreed.

Hi team! Could I please get a look over this wiring? I've tried to set up a mockup of how everything goes together outside first, according to https://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-co...2H1v3_2014.pdf

I think it's correct except for three things I'm not sure of:

1. What happens to the leftmost tab of the volume pot (marked with the top question mark). The wiring diagram appears to indicate soldering, but to what?
2. What exactly does grounding the purple wire to the bridge entail? (bottom question mark)
3. Are all those five wires going to the same solder point on base of the volume pot?

Thank you :)Attachment 42655

Hi AlexL,

1. The leftmost tab of the volume pot is to be grounded to the back of the pot. Some bend the tab, but I join them with a very short wire.

2. The bridge wire needs to be grounded to the bridge - With a tremolo, I think they can be joined to the spring screws (But I have not completed a kit with this style tremolo!!) Hopefully some one else will add to this.

3. Yes - but than can sometimes be difficult. Twist them together first and then solder to the pot.

Plus, I cannot see the jack plug connections in the picture. The ground needs to go sleeve(?!) connection tab of the plug, and the hot goes to the tip connection tab.

I hope this helps.

Thank you Trevor.

1. makes sense, thanks.
2. also makes sense, thanks - I checked out one of my other electric guitars and I see how that works now
3. okay I see I have not done that correctly but now I understand

Thanks!

Hey guys. Here's the three way switch and volume knob for my guitar. They both go through a hole in the body of the guitar to stick out of the front. How are they held in place e.g. should there be a piece in the various sets of nuts n bolts etc. which holds them in? Thanks :)

Attachment 42874
Attachment 42875

Hi Alexl,

For the 3-way switch, one of the nuts and the washer will need to be undone and removed, then insert the switch through the hole, then place on the washer and nut on the front of the body. I'm sure on one of my builds I had to remove the second nut also as there was not enough thread pocking though the body.

There should also be a small nut and washer in the Hardware pack for the volume pot.

Thank you! I'll give that a go. I thought I should check before soldering it up since it's gonna be pretty tight with the wiring (I am a very amateur solder-er and I stuffed up a few times haha)

Attachment 42877

Sigh... I put the volume knob onto the volume pot (it's not been fixed in yet with the nut and washer) and now I can't get it off. Is there a trick to remove it or do I just need to pull harder? Thank you

You don't want to try and pry it off with anything hard or metal as you will likely damage the finish.

What I do in this situation is use a flat shoe lace. Slide the shoe lace under the base of the knob then apply an upward pressure holding the shoe lace with your hands either side of the knob against the body, sort of fist-like (it's hard to describe in words!).
You're not so much pulling the lace, but lifting it, using the bottom of your fists as the fulcrum point.

Make any sense at all????

It worked! Brilliant

Attachment 43323

Hi! I am doing up the Floyd Rose bridge for this 7-string. Are the springs meant to be wonky like this? Have I slotted them into the correct holes on the bridge?

The springs can be as wonky or as straight as you wish. The straighter the spring, the less force is needed to use trem arm, as you are stretching an angled spring more for the same amount of trem arm travel compared to a straight spring. Do you can use angled springs to fine tune the trem arm resistance (though it is quite a subtle effect).

If it was mine, I’d probably move the top spring to the top hole on the block to get the sideways forces on the bridge from the springs better balanced.

For some reason they’ve added a sixth hole on the block (five is the norm on a 6-string trem block) so you’ve lost the 1:1 ratio with the five spring claw hooks, making it hard to get a balanced look or three parallel springs. If it really bugs you, you could always drill your own spring holes in the block.

Thanks Simon!

Good news first! After more than four years (mostly of procrastinating), I have a guitar!

Attachment 43327
Attachment 43328

Bad news, I must've messed something up in the wiring cos ain't no sound coming out :mad: now will be chasing that down the rabbit hole...

Attachment 43329

So I have another question about the bridge. I don't really play lead stuff using a whammy bar so something I've done in the past is just stick a piece of wood into the back cavity so bridge can't float, like above. The springs still really want to pop out though (even without the wood there)... how to I get them to stay in place?