Yeah, I see what you mean. Does seem a tad bit Washburn that way. Your May head seem much better by comparison. Really interested to see the hollowing shots😁
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It also depends on what sort of tuning machine you go with. I'm assuming they won't be elephant ears, as that what seem counterintuitive to the design.
Prefer the Arrow shaped headstock too.
It's been a case of All Quiet On The Tasman Front re this build thread recently, but I have been beavering away. Hopefully I can get these photos to upload from the new phone I can barely understand...
First shot is the body prototype cut out. This is all done in cheapo pine before I start butchering decent timber.
#2 is the contouring for the leg and belly cuts. So far the body is very well balanced, but we'll see what happens once the neck is on.
#3 shows the final chambering pattern about to be transferred to the body. Hogging out has commenced and a top is being prepped- also in cheapo pine.
The body is hopefully going to be still made of Tassie Blackwood, but I spied a slice of sycamore which might be used for the top.... once the prototype has proved instructive.
Stay tuned!
Noice, that shape really is unique and the chambering fascinates me. I watch on with great interest,
And just like that it all goes pear-shaped. Thanks to father's well-intentioned attempt at helping by suggesting tools, the body blank has been ruined by application of a hand router with the wrong shaped bit and an electric plane.
Body blank #2 gets constructed tomorrow. Glad it was just cheapo pine or I'd be killing people by now.
bummer BG but on the bright side you have learnt alot with the first body and it's not expensive timber
I have an electric plane. It came with a suite if AEG cordless power tools from a green edifice that shall not be named. I had used it once when sizing wood for a test neck. It shall never be powered up again.
I have a no. 6 hand plane and a Japanese block plane, these I use often and sharpen regularly. They work well.
Pine and routers can be troublesome, it has a tendency to bind and tear easily. When close to the edges or a thin wall, you really have to allow yourself more safety margin I have found. Easier to fix up final edges or profiles with sandpaper and a block or files and rasps.
Been a trifle slack on the uploading front but here are some facebook pics of the progress thus far:
#1 shows the chambering templates I've made for the body- when the "real" timber is ready for the sacrifice. This was fun, in the loosest sense of the word.
#2 shows the neck in very early progress. I anticipate this is hoing to tale a while to get right, so I'll be taking it slow and steady on this bit.
#3 shows the top prototype with markings for the soundholes. Deliberately striped markings to match the Thylacine theme.
Hey BG what are you using to shape your neck? I can recommend a Shinto rasp, if you can get hold of one, also Carbatec do some really good curved and straight razor files for some of the finer shaping.
The templates look Schmick, are you going to seal the edges with superglue? I’ve found that this really helps both preserve the template integrity and gives the router bit bearing something smooth and hard to run on.
Really keen to see how this goes!
A Shinto rasp is on the wishlist- I'm using standard rasps and an electric disc thing which frightens me... good idea about the superglue, I'll get onto that!
EEE, the electric disk sounds intimidating, is it something like a Saburrtooth? http://www.saburr-tooth.com/c-5-carving-wheels.aspx
I wanted to get one for the body carving on the silent build and a couple of PRS inspired scratch builds i have in mind, but..well..they look brutal to be honest. I'll stick with the shinto, Stewmac scrapers and the razor files for now.
I've found that standard rasps require a lot more sanding remediation post carving, while the shinto you simply flip from coarse cut to the finer cut side and you can effectively start your sanding at 120 grit (or 80 if you've left some deep marks).
If you get the thin ZAP CA glue it goes on really easily and leaves minimal clean up if you've prep sanded beforehand (120/180 grit). You can start a bead at one point and let it run down the surface, filling in as you go.
Neck shaping continues unabated. Still a way to go but we struggle onward...
I cut out the stripes for the soundholes. Would have been easier with a more cooperative bandsaw but I will tidy with a jigsaw shortly.
The sound holes look very interesting!
Yep, I'm seeing Thylacine.
Some great ideas coming through here BG, if you hear a “YOINK!” It’s just Igor stealing ideas.
Did some more finessing of the neck. It's feeling good- kinda like a Jazz bass from nut to 7th fret then flattening out to an Ibanez "cheese slice" profile at the 12th and beyond.
Not convinced about the headstock- well, I am really: a redesign is definitely on the cards...
As I'd ruined the obese top I'd made, I had to start afresh. A much better result with something half the girth. It's now glued in place so the final shaping can start on Wednesday.
This is the spalted sassafras top for the real project. I think I'm in love.
Now with the stripes cut in.
Oh wow....great wood.
It might be a rash decision but I've chosen to go for a neck thru design. Here we see the laminated neck in formation and also the tiger myrtle piece for the fingerboard.
Oooooooh snap! This build just took a turn, will the neck core form the inner border of the chambers?
I have to tell you Igor is losing his S$%t over that Tiger Myrtle, not to mention the sassafras skins for the front.
Love the thru neck design...good choice.
This is going to be great!
So many questions!
what are your neck laminates?
Are you scarf jointing for the headstock or doing an offset F style head?
Will it need a good home when you’ve finished it?
Can you PM me a source for the sassafras?
Will your Timber source accept used body parts as payment? (Asking for Igor)
Enquiring minds need to know!
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Some shots from today's stint in the shed.
And a couple more.
Man, this is going to look so cool once it’s done
I've been neglectful in not answering these questions- the sensible ones, that is.. 😉
The neck is 5pce laminate of unidentified wood (possibly macrocarpa) and tiger myrtle. Tiger myrtle is also being used for the fingerboard.
The top is spalted sassafras and I found a chunk of the infamous blackwood for the wings.
And I will opt for an offset F-style. Not brave enough to do a scarf joint just yet.
The woods were sourced from the local men's shed- I believe they were donated a few years back.
Now the next thing to worry about is the headstock shape- I'm opting to go for a reverse headstock 4-in-line. Then after that I'll start sourcing the hardware.
Anyone know of a source for piezo bridges?
Work on the neck continues unabated...
Coming along, do you have a radius gauge for the neck profile or are you just going by feel?
For bass piezo bridges, there's the Schaller Bass 2000 series. Also Graphtec Ghost bass piezo saddles for P-style, ABM or Hipshot A style bridges (you can get the A-style complete with the piezo saddles from Hipshot). Those seem to be the main ones.
Purely by feel. It'll be a bit of a baseball bat at the low end of the neck but flatten out more at the dusty end of the neck.