That's not a bad idea, makes it a little less obtrusive. I was thinking I would just keep it blank but putting something there does get me thinking. I was also considering the option of instead engraving some sort of logo on the neck plate.
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That's not a bad idea, makes it a little less obtrusive. I was thinking I would just keep it blank but putting something there does get me thinking. I was also considering the option of instead engraving some sort of logo on the neck plate.
So while I was dropping someone off at the airport this morning... Excited. On first inspection, no major dints or anything. Haven't wiped down to test for glue spots yet but I suspect there are a couple and unfortunately some on the veneer. Will do the damp cloth thing later today and try to get a better idea. I'll also do a mock up at the same time.
Noice, verrrry noice!
nice looking kit Searg
Hey Sarge, that kit looks pretty clean and free from glue spots. Good score.
Cheers, Waz
Alright a bit of an update. Did a mock build and damp cloth test for glue. Everything looking pretty good, no major glue on the veneer that I could find. Decided to do some body contouring for a belly cutout (forgot to take a pic, will add tomorrow). And have shaped the headstock but will probably do a little more fine work on it. Both body and neck/head still require more sanding but there's no major tooling marks which I was also happy with.
Something I didn't notice when I first received it, the four piece body is at a massive angle. Very disappointing as it will be very noticeable.
Also the veneer seems to be off center somewhat, maybe angled slightly too.
As I've mentioned in a previous post, I've never actually played a Telecaster. Is it normal for the neck to sit so high?
I don't have a picture but I have a long dent on the fret board (may have done it myself, though was being very careful), how much sanding if any should be done on the fret board?
Well first of all sorry to see the back pieces glued up like that but at least thy are on the back. The factory doesn't take time to match any pieces they just use every thing they can and glue it. But at this price you can't complain. 2 of my kits had similar issues. As for the veneer unfortunately that is another issue you see with almost every veneered top. As long as the glue between the join line stays hidden you won't notice it too much when finished my quilted tele had the same issue.
Now to the fret board you can sand it but depending how deep it is it may be difficult to get out completely. Make sure to mask off the frets before sanding or you will discolor the maple board and it will look bad. And try to sand with the grain which is tedious but will give better results.. but the top looks good and nice contouring on the head stock.
Cheers for the tips Drummerdude :)
I'm considering my options re: neck pickup mounting without the scratch plate. I wonder if anyone has come across something similar to this but suitably large enough to cover the (overlarge) neck pickup cavity?
http://www.guitarfetish.com/Telecast...ng_p_1525.html
Well sergeant I was planning on the same thing and the only option is to have a custom ring made. I used a humbucker pickup that fits the opening well but since it is rectangular you cannot use a standard humbucker trim ring like the les Paul's use because they screw down on each corner and the screws won't be over the top of body. You can have a larger one made or make one yourself. Another option I considered was a clear acrylic pickguard and then you can paint with a coordinating color on back side around pickup to cover the excess opening. Check out paisley tele pics and you will see..
Just a couple of thoughts hope it helps.
Make a bikini scratch plate out of the one that comes with the kit
Thanks for the suggestions guys. Reshaping the scratch plate is my current backup plan but was kinda hoping for something in chrome. Even better, something in chrome and engraved. I'd make one myself but wouldn't know where to start. Having a stab at woodwork is one thing, fancy metal work is definitely beyond my abilities (and resources).
The metal plate shouldn't be all that difficult, your local engraver should be able to etch from a .jpg so design something on the PC and go and ask the question.Quote:
Originally Posted by jsergeant
I've had custom car stuff done and the principle doesn't change
My guy was the local Speedy Keys franchise
Thanks Dave. Will suss it out :)
A few questions:
I'm probably not staining the back or sides however want to apply a darker grain fill. To what level of paper should I sand? I've done 180 and 240 so far.
Should sanding sealer be applied before grain fill?
What're suitable types/brands for sanding seal and grain fill? Timbermate?
Hey JSergeant,
I usually don't worry about sanding sealer but usually apply timbermate after 240 grit.
Sometimes a darker grain filler brings out any nice grain in the ash so go for ebony timbermate
Minor update. Here's the missing belly profiling pics and decided to go a little more aggressive with the profiling on the headstock. Needs a little bit of cleaning up still.
Thanks wokkaboy :)Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
tummy cut and headstock look great JSergeant
Hey, JSerge.
Great looking kit mate. Haven't come across the slab glue angle thing as yet. thats a bit weird.
If you have a look at my TLA-1R I only used neutral timbermate. not much grain pop but as i used a dark stain it did take in the grain a bit. by contrast if you look at my STA-HT, I grain popped with ebony timbermate and used the same stain as the tele. looks much better.
I usually sand ash, 180, 240 and 320 then timbermate, used 240 to get the timbermate off and then 320 again and 400 before staining (if you are staining).
I also polish the binding with 600, 1200 then 2000 grit before taping it up if you are going to stain any of the guitar.
Awesome, thanks Andy. The ebony grain fill on your STA-HT looks great. I haven't decided if I'll go quite that dark just yet, as I'm not sure how it will look with the blue stain I'm planning for the flame maple veneer and given that I don't think I'll be staining back/sides.
This afternoon I've also been wondering about a very light white washing. Have had a bit of a look around the forum but can't seem to see anyone having gone down this route. Does anyone have any thoughts/experience regarding this? Nothing too in depth, have only just been pondering it and still undecided whether it'd fit in the colour scheme either.
EDIT: Found this one but a little too heavy on the wash. Hmm might pass on it.
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ght=white+wash
Hmm am now having another thought. Does anyone happen to know how a white grain filler with blue dye added might turn out on ash? Would the blue be evident or is it likely to just achieve a similar result as that of a dark grain filler?
Edit: I'm guessing I may need to try this out myself. Does anyone in Brisbane know where I could pick up some Ash and Flame Maple scraps by any chance?
Hey Sergeant looking good.. the blue dyed grain filler will likely give you a very similar effect as the ebony timbermate. Take a look at my pbh-4 build I did ebony timbermate and stained over it. The flamed maple will not take much if any grain filler because it is a very tight grained veneer, so you won't get the same effect on it. Plus you would have to be very careful sanding back the filler because the veneer is so thin. If you did the dark grain filler I would lightly stain the top with black and rub out with fine sanding pad then put the blue over that. The flames will pick up the blue and between the flames will pick up the dark and make them pop.. watch videos on YouTube from BigDguitars he has lots of good finishing videos with flames and quilted maple tops, but remember he is not using thin veneer so you will need to modify to fit your situation.
I was thinking more for the back/sides having the natural ash colour showing through a blue grain fill (white or natural timber mate with blue stain added). Just not sure if the blue would actually stand out at all.
Does anyone know where to obtain minwax stains on Brisbane by any chance?
Oh I see ... I think if the blue was a dark blue it would for sure pop the grain with a natural finish.. you can see a few pics on my build that was the ebony grain filler then wiped down with naptha to let you see what it would look like with clear over it. I have a scrap piece of ash I think and some natural timbermate. If you post a pic of the color blue you want I will mix up some filler and show you what it would look like..
Don't think this got answered. The answer is yes, and that's actually lower than on my Fender Tele, which is about 9.5mm from the body to the top of the fret. Yours looks to be around 8mm. You'd normally also have 2mm-2.5mm of pickguard as well, which takes out some of the apparent height.Quote:
Originally Posted by jsergeant
Thanks Drummerdude, that would be very greatly appreciated. I think I'd describe what I'm after to be an "unnatural finish" :) For a test run I'd be happy to see if the blue stands out at all, anywhere along this gradient really but I guess somewhere slightly right of middle https://goo.gl/images/cejzdL
If I had a piece of scrap I'd try out a range of options. My concern would be with the blue stain on the filler effecting the non-grain areas.
EDIT: keep in mind I have no idea what I'm doing. It could be that what I'm imagining isn't possible or will just look completely horrible :)
Ah good to know, thanks Simon. And thanks for answering, I was going to loop back on this eventually :)
No problem. It is very easy to do since you would be sanding back the filler only the blue would remain in the grain. I will try and try it tomorrow evening. I am leaving for a vacation on Thursday so I will try to do it before I go. I actually have to mix up some blue stain for my bass so I will add to some natural timbermate and give it a go.
Awesome :) thanks again. And no worries at all if you don't have time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Drummerdude
Just another idea to muddy the waters, if you want something to fill the hole in the neck pickup cavity and haven't ordered pickups yet, a standard size P90 fits beautifully in there. I put one in my TL-1 with just a little sanding and the sound is much more full than the standard tele neck pup. Bonus is the sound when you switch both pups together, still jangly but with more presence.
looks good without pickguard too.
which photo is your TL-1 Ricardo ? they all look excellent. Might have to try that suggestion
Good idea Ricardo.
On my Blue Tele I bought a Strat mirror finish tremolo cover plate and was going to cut it down to size to hide most of the large neck PUP rout as it looked a lot like chrome. You can also buy brushed aluminium ones too but they chip very easily. Ended up taking the easy path and ran with the stock white one ply which looks ok. Thankfully the Swampy build doesn't have the P90 neck PUP rout and will be using one of those slim chrome mounting rings.
Here you go Sergeant,
Here is what it would look like to grain fill with blue timbermate and sand back to only leave grain accented.
You can see the mixed color, applied and rubbed in grain, scrape off excess, and then sanded back.
Hope it helps
Attachment 19936Attachment 19937Attachment 19938Attachment 19939
Legend. Thanks Drummerdude :) I love it, I think it'd make for an interesting looking guitar. My wife is scrunching up her face at it. Out of curiosity, what type of stain did you use?
I used transfast water soluble dyes. You just mix them with warm water and you can make the color as light or dark as you like. I hope it helps..
Awesome :) very much appreciated. And yes very helpful. Thanks.