No worries Simon, I'll go digging again tomorrow
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No worries Simon, I'll go digging again tomorrow
Here ya go Simon
Pearl CE-22 & AD-33 Lots of Schematic images and pics, I'll leave it to you to sort the chaff from the straw
CE-22
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=p...ih=791#imgrc=_
AD-33
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=p...33+schematic&*
Unfortunately Dave, no joy. Looked at the CE-22 first. Schematics aplenty, but most were for the Pearl CH-02 chorus, the rest for Boss choruses and others for non-specific chorus designs. But no CE-22 schematic. likewise for the AD-33. If you put quotes around "Pearl CE-22" it cuts out a lot of unwanted stuff (especially pictures of oysters), but no schematics. But thank you for trying.
No worries Simon, gave it a shot.
There's a couple over in the UK who run a business repairing H||H amplifiers that I've had some dealings with, given their interest in odd stuff they could be worth asking because people with interesting hobbies/ businesses tend to network.
I'll post a link back here when the PC is on
My mate Ivan once had a company that use to make HH amps on contract for them!
I've still got the H||H IC-100S that I purchased new around 1975, had to hunt down a schematic and some filter caps and that's how I found these guys and have found them easy and pleasant to deal with, despite what the website may suggest
http://www.majelectronic.co.uk/
The HH is incredibly loud, guaranteed minimum 100W RMS into 4 ohms and through a Marshall quad box it sounded massive. Now runs through an 8 ohm 4x10 Eminence loaded box ( had a brain fade when I purchased the speakers :D )
Quote:
Originally Posted by dave.king1
Didn't Marc Bolan from T Rex use one of those in his stage rig at some point in his career?, I think I remember playing through one some years ago, they're actually pretty cool sounding solid state amps, I think they were one of the first amps to use the then new LM741 Op Amp ICs.
This topic triggered me since I also have an Original TS-808 which I bought in 1980. I also found this page: http://www.analogman.com/tshist.htm
Could be of any help?
Cheers for posting that link Kick, will definitely be helpful.
There's also this website too, lots of info:
https://www.tonehome.de/ibanez/9-series/pt9-phaser/
I had a PT-909 phaser as well (narrow box, 3-control, round footswitch version). It was OK, but not as good sounding to me as a friend's MXR Phase 90. I bought it before I got the TS-808, which is probably why I bought the TS-808 (being another Ibanez pedal) rather than any other drive pedal. I got rid of it a long time ago for peanuts.
I had another hiccup with my TS-808 pedal earlier tonight, I plugged my guitar in expecting the pedal to work fine and it made a really strange squealing noise which eventually went away, and then it stopped footswitching properly, the indicator Led refused to light up when the pedal did footswitch, and then the sound got very distorted as if the battery was dying, I tried plugging in my Carson 9V plugpack in the DC in socket on the TS-808 pedal and the pedal worked perfectly, so, I got my multimeter and used it to test the battery, it read about 9.2V, I tried a second good 9V battery just to be sure with same results, so I had a look at the 9V battery connector and...as it turned out the cause of the malfunction was simply a broken red wire in the 9V battery clip itself, so I carefully desoldered the battery clip wires and then replaced the battery clip with a new one, that fixed the pedal completely so it worked properly with a 9V battery.
That would have taken me hours to work that out doc...
Nice example of deducted research. Good job!
Update:
Seems like I'm still not out of the woods with my TS-808 pedal, the pedal seems to function fine when my Carson 9V DC Plugpack adaptor is plugged into it, but when I try to run it off it's internal 9V battery it doesn't seem to be working properly, I've tested the 9V battery and it is fine, so I'm thinking that it's either the replacement battery clip, or a bad contact in the DC in socket, so, I'm going to have to do some more detective work with my multimeter this afternoon.
A lot of the times with these pedals there's a couple of contacts in the DC in socket that disconnect the battery when a plugpack adaptor is plugged into it, when the plugpack is disconnected from the pedal, the two contacts short-together and connect the 9V battery up to the circuit-board in the pedal, if these contacts are dirty then the contacts won't properly short together, I might have a replacement socket that I can use in amongst my bits and pieces.
Update:
After a quick bit of detective work with my multimeter, I think I have found the cause of the problem, it appears that the two contacts in the DC in socket that connect the + terminal of the 9V battery to the power in on the circuit board, aren't making proper contact like they're supposed to, checking the continuity of the contacts with my multimeter set to continuity test produces no beeping sound from my multimeter, thus indicating that that there's no continuity between the two contacts when there should be, because of this the circuit board isn't getting power from the 9V battery when it's supposed to, the reason why the pedal powers up with my Carson 9V DC plugpack adaptor is that the plugpack adaptor is bypassing the battery when it's plugged in, so, replacing the DC in socket should fix the problem once and for all.
You could always try squirting some contact cleaner into the 9v socket, then push the adapter in and out a few times to see if that clears any dirty or corroded contacts.
Also worth double-checking that you didn't connect the new battery clip wires the wrong way round.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Cheers mate, I guess I could have tried cleaning the contacts, but it's easy enough just to replace the original DC in socket altogether cause I've found a replacement for it that I know is a good one, when I soldered in the new battery clip, I triple-checked that I got the polarity correct.
Glad you triple-checked at the time. It's always worth asking the question, just in case.
Just a thought, but why isn't 'triple' spelt with 3 'p's. ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Yep, as the saying goes "Measure twice, cut once", and I agree, it's always good to triple-check things to make sure they are 100% correct, because human beings aren't infallible, we make mistakes, and it's usually when we have lapses in concentration that mistakes are more likely to occur.
I think the reason why "Triple" isn't spelt with three 'p's is probably due to one of those quirks of the English language, the really interesting thing is, the English language is actually a mixture of other languages which goes back to ancient times.
I'm just in the process of searching for some suitable wire to wire-up the new DC in socket to the circuit board, I really want to find a piece of 3-way ribbon cable rather than use three separate pieces of wire, just to keep things neat.
Update:
I just found exactly what I was after, all I need to do now is un-solder the old DC in socket and replace it with the new one and then it should be good to go.
I'll post some pics so you can see what the old socket and the new socket look like and the piece of 3-way ribbon wire I used to fit the new socket to the circuit board....stay tuned.
Here we go:
Attachment 19260
The small socket on the left hand side of the pic is the original DC in socket, the one on the right hand side is the new one, next to the new one is the piece of 3-way ribbon wire I'm going to use to connect it to the circuit board, the reason for that is that the new socket is a bit wider than the original, so I need to turn it 90 degrees in order to get it to fit, this necessitates connecting the three terminals to the circuit board via three pieces of wire, the good news is that the new socket will fit in the hole in the pedal's casing, and it will be held securely in place via a thin nut.
Before going any further, I thought it would be prudent to check that the two switched-contacts in the new DC in socket were indeed good, so I used my multimeter set to continuity test to test for continuity between the two contacts, fortunately they tested good.
And then out of curiosity, I picked up the old DC in socket and had a look at it,.....and now I know, as it turns out, one of the terminals on the old DC in socket is a bit loose (it happens to be one of the switched contacts that disconnects the battery when the adaptor is plugged in), I'm guessing that heat from soldering probably caused it to come lose.
So there you have it folks....the root-cause of all the trouble.
...adjusts dial...
And here's a pic of the modified new DC in socket:
Attachment 19266
All I need to do now is solder the tinned ends of each of the three wires to their respective solder pads, and then mount the new DC socket in it's mounting hole in the pedal's casing, and then the repair job is done.
Update:
Just tested it out prior to putting the pedal back together again, and the pedal seems to be working properly again with it's 9V battery powering it, so...I'm calling it fixed.
And as you can see from the pic, the repair is un-noticeable:
Attachment 19267
Nice fix Doc, must be good to have it back in action
Quote:
Originally Posted by stan
For sure, knowing that all your musical gear is working like it's supposed to, makes things a lot easier, and stress-free, plus it enables you to focus on making music, I'm sure you'd agree mate.
My TS-808 pedal is sounding good with both my LP Studio and my Gold Strat, and it also plays nicely with my new Boss RE20 pedal as well, I'm getting some pretty cool Blues sounds at the moment.
Update:
Recently I had been experiencing a weird issue with my TS-808 pedal, everything seemed to be okay when the TS-808 pedal was bypassed, but, when I engaged it I noticed that the output level was a bit low and would gradually get a bit louder, so I decided to have a look inside it to see if I could figure out what was going on, and it was while I was looking inside the pedal that I accidentally found the cause of the issue, I found a loose wire that had obviously broken away from the circuit board, the wire went to the middle solder lug on the output-level control pot, I examined the component side of the circuit board to see where the wire came from and found an empty hole next to some other wires, so I flipped the circuit board over, located the solder pad, used some solderwick to desolder the pad, a small piece of wire came away from the solder pad, next I stripped the end of the loose wire, tinned it and then soldered it to the circuit board, when I gave my TS-808 pedal a test out after putting it all back together I found that it was now working again as it was supposed to, with good output level, what's more, it no longer behaved like it did before, so I'm considering it fixed for the time being.
Damn those random capacitive couplings.... such a nuisance...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcel
Actually, the wire had broken off just inside the hole in the circuit board and was causing a high-resistance path for the output signal on the wiper of the output level pot, hence the reason why the output level gradually increased when the pedal was engaged, but since the wire was still in the hole, it looked perfectly normal to me, I only discovered it by accident when I somehow disturbed it enough so that it fell out of the hole in the circuit board.
This is a case where a happy accident saved me a lot of fault-finding time, and it turned out to be a relatively easy fix.
Note: If you have a look at the circuit diagram of the TS-808 that I posted, the wire that broke off the circuit board is represented by the line that goes from the wiper connection (the little arrow) of 100k Log level control, to the source of one of the footswitching Fets, when the TS-808 is bypassed, that Fet is turned off and the other Fet is turned on, allowing the signal from the input buffer to flow to the output buffer, hence the reason why the issue only occurred when the pedal was engaged.
The Signal from the wiper of the output level pot was getting to the output buffer, but, because of the high-resistance caused by the break in the wire, the output level was lower that it normally would have been.
Note 2: I almost forgot to mention that I used my 20Mhz Analog Dual Trace Oscilloscope to monitor the output level at the output jack on the side of the pedal, definitely a handy piece of test-equipment to have on hand.
My Dick Smith Electronics Q-1804 20Mhz Dual Trace Oscilloscope:
Attachment 24937
With the help of my dad, I ordered it from Dick Smith Electronics in 1998, making it about 20 years old by now, still seems to be going strong.
You've got the newer version.. Mine is a '86 vintage 20MHz Kenwood from the same retail chain. It works but the gain and timebase controls are in dire need of replacement due to use and so are very touchy... Much more a 'just turn it on and then set and forget' device nowadays...
Been looking at a modern replacement via Ebay that will cost near half what I paid way back then for my old and tired Kenwood...
https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...p2045573.m1684
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcel
My DSE Q-1804 cost around Au$700.00 when my dad and I bought it brand new, one thing I'll have to do one day is replace the trimpot (I'm guessing that's what it is) for the trace rotation cause it's getting increasingly hard to adjust.
Been seriously thinking of getting myself a good Digital Scope for a long time, I found that Jaycar Electronics stock a couple of good ones, a 20Mhz one and a 100Mhz one, the 100Mhz one is the more expensive of the two.
That trimpot may just need a squirt of contact cleaner, rather than replacement. Worth trying that first.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
It's not so much that, it's one of those miniature blue plastic PCB -mounted trimpots that has a white plastic centre where the adjustment screwdriver goes, basically over the years I've had the Scope the white plastic screwdriver adjustment centre for the trimpot got a bit worn so that the trimpot has gotten hard to adjust, but yes I could try giving it a spray with contact cleaner.
Ah, I see. Well, if you can get to it - replace it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
For sure, I think I should be able to get a replacement for it from Jaycar Electronics with not too much trouble, might be a good idea to see if I can find a service manual for the Scope on the internet, as it is, the Scope is still quite useable as a piece of test equipment.
That would mix up cake in no time! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcel
Hahahaha....
My Scope has a couple of useful functions built into it, it can be operated in X/Y mode which is useful for checking phase, and it also features a component tester function.
Yep! Also lets me talk on Chicken band radio, and chills my beer.... and somewhere there is a function to make home movies... ;) ;) ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden