*nods* yep, it always pays to the check the contact sequence when you're (re)using unfamiliar switches. Most of the ones I see are type 2.
Printable View
*nods* yep, it always pays to the check the contact sequence when you're (re)using unfamiliar switches. Most of the ones I see are type 2.
Though the two outer positions should still work if that was the case. Hmmm.
The WSC web site wiring diagram for the STK50 shows different connections to those printed on the box.
http://wscmusic.com/itemView.php?que...7&no=1055&lv=2
Attachment 15560
It could be that the wiring has changed over time, or it could be that the box wiring was incorrect - or not correct for the stacked single coil as the diagram is for a standard humbucker.
It's probably best to unsolder the pickup output wire connections fully so that you have the four wire ends and the shield all separate. Then see if there's a measurable resistance between white and black, and then green and red. If there is, then the wiring is as per the WSC web site and not that on the box.
If the wiring is as per the web drawing, then the connections indicated on the box would only allow for a single coil output, and probably shorting out any signals or leaving coils open with the 3-way switch connected (possibly why the position with humbucker +stack didn't work).
Here's some shots for you guys to check out. Soldering is still a new thing to me, but they are all very solid connections.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psrpd9ozro.jpg
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psubhbeuwo.jpg
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps0bfflhma.jpg
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psc6yeg4ee.jpg
Hey Zandit getting there. That black wire with the long bare wire length could short out on another wire/lug or the copper shielding. I would cut it and re-join to the lug with more insulation covering it or get some heat shrink will lessen the chances of wires shorting.
You will need to remove the solder on the lug first, some solder kits have a solder sucker should make it easier to remove
Yeah, that cable was missed with the initial soldering, as it iscsupposed to be the green wire going from the 3-way to 5-way switch. I'll definitely re-do that one, but the switch wasn't in the cavity when I was testing it last night, none of the electrics were. It definitely was not touching anything to short out on.
Do yu have access to a multimeter?
Yes I do, I can borrow one from work, but since I'm heading off early tomorrow afternoon and not returning until Monday I think I better wait until then to grab a set.
Do that and we can run some tests. The switch wiring is a bit messy but the connections look correct. So we need to check the pickup coil colour pairs (in case the supplied diagram doesn't match) and the switch contact sequence to enaure everything is working and gets connected the way it needs to be.
Alright guys, I'll have a multi meter for tonight, what will I be looking for and what steps should I be taking?
We need to confirm which wires are pairs for each coil. The original diagram you posted has them listed as Green & Red as one pair and White & Black (plus shield/bare) as the other, so we need to check that's correct.
Disconnect the Hot Stack's wires from the mini-switch, set your multimeter to 'resistance' (Ohms) and test the green/red pair and white/black pair. You should get a resistance reading, probably 4K+. If you don't get a reading then start switching the pairs, red/black, white/green etc until you get measurable resistance and those are your coil pairs (this video may help).
Also test your mini-switch to ensure that's working correctly. Set the multimeter to continuity test (or resistance will do) and test the switch contacts in each position. Remember, as Simon posted, there are type different 'handed' versions of the on/on/on's so you'll need to test which version you have (as per Simon's image, types 1 and 2):
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...9&d=1480941554
The testing will tell us what's working or should be working and how in needs to be connected. Make sense?
I think so. The pick up I understand no worries.
With the switch, am I supposed to be checking matched coloured dots?
Also, with the switch, what would be the position of the switch going left to right in each of those diagrams?
Switch sequence shown is, left to right, down/centre/up (type 1 and 2). Just remember the active contacts are the opposite of the handle position... handle down upper contacts, handle up lower contacts.
The matched coloured dots indicate the contacts/lugs that are linked in each position, so the green are one set of active contacts and lght blue are the other set. To test them just put the multimeter probes on one colour set at a time, red on one black on the other etc and check for continuity.
With the switches, you only need to test the connections with the switch in the middle position. The switches have rotational symmetry, so it doesn't matter which way up they are. And you are only looking to determine whether your switches are on/on/on type 1 or 2, so in theory you can ignore the top two switches in that diagram.
However, just Googling MTS-2 (embossed on the side of your switch) seems to indicate that it's an on-off switch. The switch does have three positions doesn't it?
That's why I wanted him to test all positions, to work out the switch type and ensure it's not faulty.
Or possibly the wrong switch.
Definitely a 3-way switch, and I believe we sorted out the colours of the correct coils a couple of weeks ago when I checked the hum cancelling against the other single coil? Would that be right?
Sorry, I didn't get a chance to look at the guitar yesterday afternoon. I'll be looking at it tonight.
I'd assume nothing for now, and find it all out by testing. I'd be surprised if it wasn't wired as the manufacturer's web wiring diagram for it, which could account for some of the things you've been experiencing, but probably not all.
So best to start with a blank sheet of paper, and take it from there.
Understood Simon, good advice.
I'll come back when I have some info.
I'll have to draw up a wiring diagram for my HotRod Strat so that others can use it in their builds, when I went to wire up all my pickups, I elected to wire them all up as Humbuckers, but there's no reason why coil-tapping couldn't be implemented, I may do it at a later stage, but I'm pretty happy with it as it is.
@ Zandit Good job with the wiring-up, how is it sounding now?
Nothing to report at this stage.
Thanks to commitments with the Brass Band, I was only able to disassemble all of the electrics on Saturday, and clean up all of the parts of solder as best I could before starting again from fresh.
On Sunday I fully intended o get everything sorted with readings etc, but was floored by a migraine that left me bed bound all day.
I'll have a look at it tonight and pass on the relevant information.
Oh dude, my better half suffers from those damnable migraines. Hers normally leave her unable to function, and usually curled on the cold bathroom floor or similar trying not to hurl (and not always succeeding). You have my sympathies.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zandit75
Thanks bud, most appreciated.
Thankfully this time I wasn't sick, but I got the cold sweats up there at one point, and was on the verge of running to the toilet. I think I spent a total of about 4hrs out of bed yesterday, but was asleep for pretty much the rest of it.
Still popping the Nurofens today, but it's only a shadow of what it was.
Hope it passes soon, Zandit. My commiserations.
I think I grabbed a dodgy multi meter to take home. I was only able to get measurements every now and then, even touching the two points together only gave me something occasionally.
I'll take the switch into work and check it against the other unit we have at work and see if that makes a difference. Otherwise I think I may need a new switch.
Could just be a dead battery.
Glad to hear you are on the mend mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zandit75
Ding Dong the switch is dead!!
The first multi meter had dodgy leads. However after using the other set at work it seems that the switch is dead. Absolutely no response whatsoever.
Considering I had some sound out of it originally, I reckon I fried it with too much heat from the soldering iron. Time to search for a new switch.
Strange that it was working in the one position initially, maybe it was already on the way out. RealTone usually ship pretty quickly (pricey), but similar switches are available at lots of places.
Did you also double-check the pickup coil wire pairs? Just to be thorough.
Not yet Weirdy, I'll take the good MM home tonight and check them over. I didn't want to risk bring the guitar body in to work and get it damaged.
Just tested the coils, looks like we had them mixed up
Green and white
Black and red
Both connections showing about 4800
I just tested the single coil to ensure that was fine, and it is, showing about 5700, however the humbucker is not showing anything at all.
What am I doing wrong?
Zandit, assuming this is the humbucker you got 4.8k for green/white and black and red, try joining green/white together and test black and red or vice versa. You need to test the ends of each of the single coils that make up the humbucker if that makes sense.
With both coils of the humbucker you should get a reading of about 9.6k
Sorry Wokka, the 4 coloured wires are for a single hot stack which is in the middle position.
I have a humbucker in the bridge position, and I can't get a reading out of it.
I tried two other humbuckers I have, and neither of them are showing any reading. They are all standard two wire HB.
Hi Zandit, that's strange no reading in both 2 wire humbuckers. I would try chopping the bare wire off the ends and strip the insulation and try testing that in case the bare wire has been damaged. So I presume you are using the good multimeter from work ?
Also check if both wires from both humbuckers look damaged. Maybe your dogs have chewed them haha
Good luck !
Yep, did that to all humbuckers. Not sure why I'm not getting a reading.
that's strange Zandit, have you got any other humbuckers you can test ?
My guess is they are damaged internally and one or both wires have come loose from the connection point.
I have three all together, and as I said, all tested negative on the multi meter.
Now, just to muddy the water even further, I used a lead plugged into an amp, touched the negative and positive ends on all three humbuckers and then tapped the top of the HB with a screw driver. All three made noise!!!
I've got no idea what is going on!
Is the MM autoranging or do you have it set to a specific Ohm range, as in 10K?
yes Zandit what resistance setting are you using ? on mine I set it to 20k. If on the wrong setting the reading may be too small to register a reading above zero.