Rev get a 10mm drill and drill a hole about 5mm deep where the screws will be. Easiest solution and you will have more height adjustment if needed.
Think I had to do that on my kit
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Rev get a 10mm drill and drill a hole about 5mm deep where the screws will be. Easiest solution and you will have more height adjustment if needed.
Think I had to do that on my kit
Though I would just measure to check that you aren't going to drill all the way through the body first - just in case you've been given extra-long screws!
No worries. I don't have calipers here, but I'd say the difference is maybe 2-3mm. So drilling a hole under them is not a huge deal, Ill just mark the bit and take care of it.
I couldnt find shorter screws of same size. Though I could shorten these with a grinder...
Attachment 16869
Here's where I'm at right now. The room is a little dark, so the yellow appears dimmer than it is. Found some nice yellow lacquer and tested it. Liking the results so far and letting the parts sit in the spare room (away from kitty feet) to cure before I proceed.
I did work out some headstock accenting I'll be painting on, but I'm not to that point yet.
Oh, and you can see the chrome singlecoil cover I got to make em look matchy, heh.
The curve at the base of the headstock means I probably cant use any stock truss rod cover. Don't know if the finished version will have one at this stage. I've considered some kind of bendable vinyl piece or something there, but its minor.
hey Rev looking good buddy !
Of course, the cold season returned this week, so I cant really do more painting right now (a friend of mine termed the shade "Wino Piss", so thats what I call it, haha). Guess Ill seat and measure the neck today, since I can do that indoors without making a big mess.
Hmm. That neck pocket is so snug I cant really make any minute adjustments. And I taped off the pocket while painting thus far, so its not an issue of finish making up the difference. Guess Ill have to sand the inside of the pocket a bit, add some wiggle room?
You may not need it. I'd bolt the neck on for a test run and see how well it lines up with the bridge and pickup routs before widening the pocket. Snug is good if you can get away with it. If there needs to be some slight adjustment, then at least you know which way it needs to be sanded rather than simply making the whole pocket bigger just in case.
Argh. Im so close to finishing the color coats, just fixing small mistakes here and there on the edges. sand, spritz, sand, spritz, grumble...lol
Colour is looking great Rev! Love these kits. Haven't seen one in a bright colour before so am excited to see it assembled. The headstock is more like a fender set up so a truss rod cover might not be feasible.
cheers,
Gav.
Well, aside from one spot on the body where a tiny piece of newsprint got caught in the paint, Ive finished color coats. Currently oiling the fretboard before I tape it up again (it feels a bit dry) to do clear coats. I also sprayed a black accent on the headstock, which I want to show you guys, but the mobile site doesnt let me upload pics. Gotta take a small model brush and fix a tiny error on the accent anyway.
Heh, Gavin, your video on Youtube of you banging along with the first Ramones record was what led me to Pitbull anyway. They oughta give your ass a discount or something.
Attachment 17940
Hope this image works. I did a 60s' "flying wedge" on the head to offset the black pickguard. The stencil bled in a couple of spots, but I should be able to fix that with the model paintbrush.
Are you going to name it "Bart"???
I might have, but a friend already referred to it as "Wino Piss", so that's its working name at the moment. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Hobastard
Looking good Rev!
If you hadn't mentioned the Flying Wedge, I would have pegged you as a Star Trek fan!!
That was the downside, ha. Everybody knows THAT wedge. But I couldnt find anything else that looked good.
(my first mockup for a black accent looked like a condom!)
looking great Rev, looks like you are on the home stretch !
how long till assembly ?
what bridge pup you putting in ?
Ehh, getting closer. Havent done the clearcoats and buffing yet.
Going with stock pickup for now, we'll see how it does. Sometimes I find that generics are hot enough and its just a matter of goosing it correctly at the EQ - really good example, Ive got two Epi G-310s at the house, one has stock pickups and the other has two Invaders. Its very difficult to tell which is which when they're directly plugged into the amp - you dont hear a real difference until I run thru my pedalboard.
Oh, I should point out that after oiling the fretboard... it fucking absorbed it like a sponge. Apparently that was what it needed, ha. Its all dark and proper looking/feeling now. Well. if I do another kit, have to remember to do that :)
Nice progress the yellow really suits this style
This was just me checking on the neck pocket (the problem was that there was a slight hump on one side to sand down), but you can see the Wino-Piss-ness of it all.
Attachment 18044
And a fine Wino-yellow it is. A good job you didn't paint it red, or it wouldn't have lasted 5 minutes after beaming down to the planet.
My attempted touchup on the wedge didn't go well. The brush strokes are too obvious under the light. Well, once it dries fully, I'll cut a piece of stencil again and try to fix that. ARRRGH!
It will Dilute (pun intended) when you add Hardware and a Pickguard...Quote:
Originally Posted by Rev
(I still reckon that Headstock looks Like Bart Simpson's Head. Especially the "Haircut" . :D (just needs some big Eyes).....
Don't take any notice of me.....Guitar is looking Good.....
Rev, build looking great and like the yellow!
Sent from Lineage OS 14.1
Attempted fix didnt work. Well, time to sand the headstock and start over. Bleah
My wife suggested that I could do the wedge as a sticker instead, that way I could just design what was going to be a decal at the same time, print it off and then clearcoat it as normal.
Other option is to redo the wedge with larger points at a bigger angle, where the stencil had the most issue, and try again....
If you are redoing the headstock anyway you'll get a better masking result by spraying the black first and then masking the black accent in one piece. Paint a layer of clear over that to help seal the masking edge and then the yellow - may be worthwhile painting alight undercoat first or the black may change the tone of the yellow.
oh, thats a good idea, using clear to seal off the edge of the mask.
Well, I had some more runs trying to fix it. Back in the closet it goes for another 24 hrs, it's made me mad enough for one day. :)
Still working on fixing the damn headstock. Sand, wipe, sand, wipe...
But Ive started clearcoating the body.
Argh, I posted a nice pic of the clearcoated body and managed to delete it later bc the mobile site is a bitch. Well, Ill show that to you guys when I get home, since the site doesnt let me post them from mobile.
Anyway, heres some of the things Ive done/encountered/learned:
- The yellow lacquer Ive been using is only available at a single store in my city, which is annoying. And they stock one small can maybe every week. But at least it ensures I work at a nice slow pace with curing time.
- Since I have cats, every now and then a single hair will fall off my clothes while Im painting and land in the fresh paint. Ive gotten pretty adept at preventing this (no, I do not spray lacquer in the nude) or at least fixing it when it happens and I dont catch it until its dried.
- Body's clearcoated on front and three edges. I have to do a little sanding on one edge where its a bit rough, but at least I got to test the clearcoat and make sure it looks right and buffs OK.
- Neck is coming along... I had to sand down a couple of rough spots along the back and then sand off the damned accent that I fucked up. Almost ready to try stenciling it again. Think I have a plan now to make it look better.
- I got some decal paper where I was going to put a logo/makers mark on the black accent, but when I tested it on scrap wood, the dried version looked terrible - dried with a whitish background. Printing the logo with a black background was slightly better, but still not right. What Ill probably do is discard the decal paper and print parts of the logo on adhesive paper, apply that to the accent before clear coating. I hate doing that (it wont be quite flat), but It seems the best option. The other idea is to make a stencil within a stencil when doing the accent, which (if it works) will look cleaner, but if I fuck up I have to do the whole process again.
Decisions, decisions!
Just keep moving forwards slowly. You'll get there in the end and it will all be worth it.
Here is the body. All shiny and partially clearcoated. (The striping is actually shadows from my balcony, it was late in the day.) Just fixing that edge I mentioned...Attachment 18312
Looks great, Rev.