I've found that I can apply Dingotone and Tru oil when its raining...but nothing else.....
Great decal by the way.
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I've found that I can apply Dingotone and Tru oil when its raining...but nothing else.....
Great decal by the way.
With the return to sunny skies I've started on the colour coats. All looks good so far but I just wanted to check the general consensus on sanding the colour coat back before you start on the gloss coats. I've seen advice for and against on the forum so just wanted to see if I'm missing anything...
The colour looks pretty solid at this point (I'm using MTN94) but the surface looks a little like 1200 sandpaper - smooth but with a very fine texture. Now I'm guessing that the gloss will "fill" the texture and you'll never notice once it's all done, but I'm not sure!
There are also a couple of spots on the body where a bit of dust has settled, and I feel like I want to sand them but simply not sure! Edit: Just had a closer look and I was able to wipe the dust away so now it's all okay.
Any advice greatly appreciated!!
Attachment 13401
I usually sand the last colour coat to about 800, you don't want it too smooth, it needs some tooth for the clear to stick to
So this morning I go back to view my handywork and I'm a little disappointed. There was a very subtle "striping" across the body as a result of the way I'd sprayed. As I mentioned I'm using the MTN94 cans. When I ordered them I did notice they sold different "heads" for them, including one with a rotating nozzle - but no, I didn't get one. Instead I was spraying with the standard nozzle which meant quite a narrow flow of paint. After two colour coats I did think I was done, but I couldn't live with the "striping" so I did another colour coat this morning and it seems to have pretty much fixed the problem - certainly something to be aware of in future.
Later this afternoon I very gently used some 800 to flatten off the colour coats (thanks Dedman) and started with a fine gloss mist, and then a more substantial gloss coat half an hour later. Hopefully I'll get the chance to get a few more on during the week, but it's a nice feeling to be on he home straight in the finishing department.
Knowing I'm going to be heading into the curing phase before long I've already started thinking about my next kit, or more to the point how I'll go about modding my next kit!
A bit of advice please!
My latest potential problem has occurred with my gloss coats. I've got four coats on but there are a couple of "ridges" on the body. I'm thinking it may have happened as it was quite cold when I was painting (yep, impatient!) and my overlapping got a bit out of whack.
My question is what to do? Should I wet sand them back with say 1200? Should I do the whole body or just the ridges? How long should I wait before doing this (the last coat was on Monday morning before work)? Or do I leave them and assume they will come out when I do my final wet sand before buffing?
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yup, just wet sand them out before you clear coat, the same as you would do with any runs. Make sure its really dry. some runs and ridges can hide a wet core inside them
Great, thanks for that Dedman. The coats have been pretty light and by this evening it'll have been 36 hours plus since the last one. Do you think that's enough time to dry? Is there a way of telling other than carefully trying and pulling the pin the second you find anything remotely tacky?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dedman
Hi Chuck, usually 36 hours should be enough between gloss coats but depends how cool and wet the weather has been. Also as Dedman says runs and ridges can take longer to fully cure. I'd carefully wet sand the body starting with the ridges and if there is any hint that the paint hasn't cured then you will have to wait longer.
If its cool when you are painting it helps to put the paint can in warm water before spraying and shake the can for at least 2 minutes
what you got there is shrink back is caused by the primer coat swelling from the reducer if you got it in a color coat just let it dry off for a hour or so and sand back it with 600 and lightly respray it, if you are getting it in the clear coat you need to spay it lighter and try to be consistent with your coats leave it longer between coats 30min what type paint are you using acrylic or nitro ? they both have petty much the same thing and work the same way. when your using clear over a solid color not metallic or pearls straight clear looks better with about 10 to 15% of the color mixed in to the clear will give a way better shine and just looks better. If your using spray cans that's not really an option, when you spray anything whether or not your using a gun or a can, spay whats call double header coats that means you spray the 1st coat horizontal and 2nd then vertical you do that all at the same time then leave to flash off remember don't spray to dry or it will look terrible you do that to lay the paint even and flat the secret to glass shine is keep it flat and even,Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck
Its a bit hard to show some one new to painting how to cram 20 years in to a single post once you get a good technique you will spay a good looking thing every time. if you need any advice just ask :-)
almots for got to say there is a limit to how many coats you use before you get the thing too soft so don't keep putting to many coats and you'll have nightmares about how soft the paint is and wont harden up properly
@ Phrozin, that's some good information mate. I haven't sprayed any guitar bodies yet, but I just did another project for she who must be obeyed that gave me some trouble in the same vein as the above. Good to know and thanks for posting!
After 10 days of curing (yep, I know that may not be enough!!) I couldn't help myself and decided to do some final cutting and polishing. I figured doing the back would be the best place to start just in case anything went wrong so I broke out the 1200 and started cutting back on the gloss coats. All seemed good so I moved on to 2000 before breaking out the Maguiers compound and then swirl remover. After several hours - and aching arms - it's looking pretty good. There's one very small point on the edge where I've gone a bit deep, but I'm chalking that up to rookie lessons. Hopefully get a chance to do the rest of the body over the coming week or so...
Attachment 13841
I've also got the "Ricken-ripper" build in curing mode, but was also happy to receive a JB4M kit for my birthday on the weekend for which I've got some interesting ideas for modification. Lots to get on with!!
Love the colour, beautiful
Looks fantastic Chuck nice job and happy birthday for the weekend glad there is another build in the pipeline
lovin the colour!
Thanks wokka - kids are happy I'm back in building mode as it makes presents nice and easy for them!Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Looks great Chuck and Happy Birthday!
looks superb Chuck
Perfect colour mate
Looking great Chuck. Love the colour and the shine is coming up a treat!
cheers,
Gav.
It's been pretty slow going on the build with other commitments (yep, I know I need to get my priorities in order) but last night made some good progress. I've finished the body now with the 1200/2000 wet-sanding and then Maguiers compound/swirl remover. I know I could do more but it's hit that point where I'm generally satisfied. I then shielded the cavities with slug tape and started re-shaping the lower horn pickguard (I had to cut off a bit to match the re-shaped body). Getting it just right was harder than I thought but I'm getting there. I still need to work out what to do at the bridge end as the cutout where the bridge goes doesn't fit right (it's about a centimeter too short from the factory and looks a little weird). I'm sure something will come to me eventually!
Attachment 14032
Most of these Tele kits have the bridge sitting a fair way south of the pick guard cut out and it's just how they are made as per these Fender examples copied off the internet...
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Thanks for that, I don't think I've ever really noticed before. On mine the gap is a bit larger and there isn't that uniform space around the bridge. Still, maybe the best approach will be to just create that uniform space as it will keep things simpler.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Done! Yep, in a flurry of acrtivity yesterday afternoon after coming home from a weekend away I managed to get everything done! The only thing I really needed to do pre-assemble was to shape the pickguard a little more, but once that was done everything came together very quickly. Also happy to say that it sounds pretty good too - I'd always planned to stick with stock electronics until the end and then assess whether to switch out for better components and while the three-way switch is a bit scratchy it's overall very nice. Can't wait to play it some more - in between getting going on my next build!
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Lookin great chuck. Love that blue always wanted one that colour
Cheers Andy - it's MTN 94 RV-156 Barceloneta Blue in case you are interested.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
wow, just love it, very individual, who did the logo?
Thanks Stan - I just did the logo in Photoshop then printed it on laserjet decal paper. I was amazed at how simple it was to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by stan
Super nice, great mods and executed so neatly. Love the colour too.
Looks perfect Chuck
Love it mate. Such a good build
Looks awesome! Love the body shape change and it's a gorgeous colour.
Hey Chuck,Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck
Which MTN94 colour is this one? I picked up a squier recently and am thinkin of doing a Daphne Blue. This looks close. Are they good products?
Hey Andy, it's RV-156 Barceloneta Blue. I've followed Gav's lead in using them and reckon they are great. When ordering, make sure you grab a couple of the additional "heads" that give you a vertical or horizontal spray. The standard head is okay, but the additional ones are great and they are quite cheap. I'm using them with White Knight Rustguard all purpose primer and White Knight Crystal clear.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
Thanks Chuck, you're a legend.