wiring diagram has been corrected, just volume to change. and some idea on what to do to get all 6 in series. TA everybody, esp weirdbits.
Attachment 12992
Printable View
wiring diagram has been corrected, just volume to change. and some idea on what to do to get all 6 in series. TA everybody, esp weirdbits.
Attachment 12992
Hey wokka, just a bit of info about the pickups for ya, or anybody else that wants to read.
More tones than you can shake a plectrum at
Warman G-rail triple coil electric guitar pickup – A very special pickup indeed. 3 coils, 6 wire output, ceramic and alnico magnets and more wiring options than even we can think of.
This is a standard humbucker sized unit that will fit in place of any humbucker. It has two coils wound as hot rails with a strong ceramic magnet powering these that lifts the treble whilst retaining all the power, bass and mids. Each of the coils of the rail has its own individual output wires so is in effect a fully fledged twin rail humbucker in its own right. Mounted on the same chassis is an another coil wound with 6 individual alnico magnets again with its own output wires so we’re looking at three coils and six output wires plus the shield.
Each of the rails has a resistance of 7.39k and due to the strong magent has an inductance of 4H, when wired together in series gives a combined resistance of 14.76k, which is to be expected, but the powers jumps up to 10.7H more than twice the sum of the individual coil outputs . The alnico coil has a resistance of 6.48k and an inductance of 3.35H on its own. Now this is where things start to get interesting. Put all 3 coils wired into each other in series and the thing turns into a Monster at 21.2k and a massive output of 14.9H.
Attachment 12993 Attachment 12994
Cheers Nitro I'll have a read. First I've heard of this style pickup. Can't wait to hear them!!!
I'll check out some online demo's of them
http://www.warmanguitars.co.uk/produ...uitar-pickups/Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Warman-Bl...-/182049544055
hmmm, makes a note for future reference, think I just found the bridge pick up for my planned V :) thanks Nitro
Hey the pleasures all mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dedman
Just fitted the neck to the body and it fits like a glove. Will check body/neck/strings measurements on the weekend, unless i get really keen before...
Attachment 13070 Attachment 13071 Attachment 13072
Checking out glues for the walnut veneer...... my bro in law uses a slow drying 2 part glue pictured below
Attachment 13084
BUT i would like to know what you guys recommend as im open to suggestions.....
Saw these in the big green shed.....
Attachment 13085 Attachment 13086 Attachment 13087
and these.......
Attachment 13088 Attachment 13089 Attachment 13090
Hey Nitro I've had success with selleys kwik grip although it sets pretty quick so you may have one minute or less to position the veneer correctly. I've also had success with original titebond Will give you more time to position the veneer. Maybe check with DB may recommend another product
14.9 henries?!!! That's insane... you could destroy a small city with that.
As for glue, titebond is my go to all purpose goo.
I use a foam roller to apply a nice even coat on the body and veneer.
It says on the instructions not to dampen the surface but as this is not a structural join it helps to extend the open time, which is useful when glueing veneer.
Oh, I would go for the Claro. Heaps more character.
EDIT. I miss read .6mm as 6mm....
Disregard the dampening bit as this will cause the veneer to bubble....
You may want to invest in one of those vacuum sealed clothes bags.
Glue the veneer on slap it in the bag and use the vacuum to pull the air out.
Then you can use a smooth chunk of timber to work out any air bubbles trapped under the veneer.
Will do, thanks for the advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Ok sounds good, read about those vacuum bags recently, but they cost heaps. So your saying i can use the clothes one using a normal home vacuum cleaner? And yea the henries sound the biz...lolQuote:
Originally Posted by dingobass
who stocks Titebond? I'm yet to find a retailer round these parts
Masters hardware and Carbatech.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dedman
yes Dedman I've never seen Titebond at the green shed, was surprised when I saw Nitro's pics of them stocking it
Sure can. Of course you could lash out a fist full of cash on a dedicated vaccy set up but went bother when the domestic version works ?Quote:
Originally Posted by nitroburner1000
Practice a few times as it can be a challenge to get an air tight seal.
Having just spent much time packing and evacuating air from many, many Vacuum Bags I can offer this handy advisory; spend the extra money on buying the "Original Space Bag" with the capless valve. Once you've sealed it properly you are done, some of the other brands will hold a vacuum when sealed only for as long as you keep the vacuum hose attached.Quote:
Originally Posted by dingobass
For you Noobs of which I am one read the post by these guys above.... Tight Bond , good old wood glue is the stuff...Dont use epoxy...Just read what Fender and Gibson did... Then old school guitar builders pre 1930.....If it ARNT broke dont fix it...AS DB says in his VIDS you if your building on your kitchen table with the kids running around, as I am why use harse chemicals. Just my opioin that is.
Great DB, youve solved all my problems, cheersQuote:
Originally Posted by dingobass
I hear ya mate, i will do that, thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
That makes good sense BadgerJM, thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by HoneyBadgerJM
Bit late getting on to this thread and also checked out the PUP's and video on their website.
If using standard 3 position PUP switch for selecting between neck & bridge the middle position engages both PUP's for when you have selected all 3 coils on for both neck & bridge thus giving you all 6 on at once. Having done a couple of coils split and out of phase humbucker mods would only recommend the dimarzio mini 'on-on-on' dpdt switches as most others are rubbish, particularly the cheap Chinese eBay stuff.
Another thought might be to use push/pull pots to split each humbucker down to either just the slugs or just the rails and then use the minis to do other things.
Word of caution....some of the out of phase sounds are quite thin and low on output and most likely rarely used if ever at all after the first play checking out all the weird sounds. In theory the concept of multiple combinations sounds cool whereas in reality it can be quite different.
Thanks for your input Waz. Did you check out the mini on/on/on switches from warman guitars? Weirdbits said they would be ok, only if i get the g-rail pups i was gonna get the switches from them. Whats your thoughts. About the out of phase switching, ive just done that on my SG-1 and you right, very thin sounding and extremely low volume, wont do that again.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
I was just gonna follow the wiring diagram they sent me.
Attachment 13121
Was not even aware of Warman until seeing them on this thread. Where they are made might have a bearing on quality as I think Dimarzios might still be made in USA.
1st used the Dimarzio mini switch about 10-12 years ago when splitting a double rail single coil sized bridge PUP on a strat. It is actually now in the middle position on my Son's strat. A few years ago bought some more double rails to put in neck and middle and also bought cheap eBay mini switches and it all turned out crap as you could hardly pick any difference to the sound when flicking through the 3 switch positions. Problem solved once 2 more Dimarzios arrived but those PUP's were rubbish too hence why that axe now has proper humbuckers and set up in a H-S-H configuration.
Some of the out of phase sounds (position 2 & 4 on a 5 way switch) between middle and PUP's either side are very thin and low in volume and sound best with all coils at their hottest setting for when you want to have 2 PUP's on together.
Very interesting. Appreciate your reply. Warmans are made in England so i reckon they will be ok. The owner has been in the guitar business for 30 odd years and makes all his own stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Sounds like they should be the biz then.
Make sure you give us a listen to them Nitro when you get it sorted
hope so, ive read nothing but good reviews and their prices are amazing.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
QUOTE.......Arca Primitive Guitars partnership with Warman Guitars UK
2016 has just begun and, along with the New Year, we can another celebrate another and very welcome partnership: this time with the british Warman Guitars company from Market Harborough, a Leicestershire district. The founder and owner Josi Warman has in fact agreed to sign an agreement with the “camuna” guitars that will allow us to mount his amazing components on our instruments and use his logo. Indeed, we already have some project about this…
Perhaps a little known to the most, this peculiar british company has the distinction of being able to provide its customers parts and components of outstanding quality at truly affordable prices, thanks to the competence and professionality accumulated by Josi Warman in decades of experience. Selling exclusively through the web, Warman Guitars is able to offer, even to the most demanding player, products which can satisfy every need at significantly lower prices than more famous brands.
Beside the magnets (single coil, humbucker, P90 and piezoelectric), bridges, machine heads, electronics and all the other parts used to build, repair, or even “upgrade” electric guitars and basses such as screws, plates, knobs and nuts, Josi also offers sets of tools and utensils that can be really helpful for those who want to start the art of luthiery, at really unbeatable prices. We really invite you to visit his site and his Facebook page to find out more and Warmanize your axe! UNQUOTE
Official homepage: www.warmanguitars.co.uk
Facebook page: www.facebook.com/warman-guitars
Dont worry mate, ill get a video done...Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
In the meantime heres a demo of just one of the pickups im gonna get "The G-Rail" from youtube. Tell us what you think guys, me being an amateur an all would love to hear your opinions...Quote:
Originally Posted by nitroburner1000
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIf-7zHFPis
Checked the vid out a few nights ago and they do sound LOUD with an amazing array of sounds. Amp settings may have contributed a little bit but that sound clip is very encouraging and would have convinced me to buy. For GBP $23.99 each plus postage hopefully you have change out of AUD $100 bucks and that is seriously cheap for that amount of noise.
Yea, thats what i was thinking, cheap as, good reviews and very intriguing.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Just ordered my pair of G-Rails, 2 mini switches and an assortment of luthier tools.
Ive ordered a set of 24 ct gold plated Brian May strings.
Ive been thinking about the full pickguard setup. As im going to attempt a veneer top i wont wont a full pickguard covering up all the grain and the bucker cavity's are too large just to use no pickguard, so i want to custom make one from a blank.
i am going to shift the pots around so ill have room for my 2 switches...top row...from left to right...bridge volume, mini switch, mini switch, neck volume. botom row ...from left to right.... bridge tone, neck tone. Rhythm/treble switch underneath neck bucker like the sg twin neck kit, and the lead input on the lower side of the guitar, like the les paul. Any thoughts guys?
Attachment 13315 Attachment 13316
Can you just use mounting rings rather than a pick guard? And make a small "pot/switch holder one that just covers the rout?
I have those May Gold strings on my Jnr and another set to go on my ES125, they sound OK to me :)
The cavity thats factory cut is 50ml but the mounting rings only cover 45 ml, so thats my dilemma, they dont come any larger.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dedman
EDIT... maybe something like this... but encompassing both humbuckers as well.
Attachment 13324
have a word with Pablo, he is the God of Acrylics, he may be able to make something up for you
Ill use him as a last resort, i think id like to have a go at making my own, cheersQuote:
Originally Posted by Dedman
Hey buddy, ever thought about different mounting rings? Metal or rosewood perhaps? Checkout this page at Realparts.....http://www.realparts.com.au/hardware...rings.html?p=2
Yea, checked out different mounting rings but the dilemma l have is that the factory holes that have been cut are 50ml wide, most rings are 46ml wide so i still have a gap. So i will have to use a modified pickguard.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
I.E. The Humbucker Pickup Ring Set - Rosewood From RealParts, dimensions...- Outside dimensions: 92mm x 46mm
- Inside dimensions: 73mm x 41mm
I need.... Outside dimensions: 92mm x 50-55mm to cover the hole. Thanks anyways