Hi Eric, I agree with your head, Dedman and Fretty. White pickguard and chrome hardware.
Think about a white pearloid pickguard might look cool
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Hi Eric, I agree with your head, Dedman and Fretty. White pickguard and chrome hardware.
Think about a white pearloid pickguard might look cool
I would go white pickguard. Or, for something different, maybe try chrome with black pickguard but white pickups and knobs.
You could always go Chrome hardware and Chrome pickguard?
Attachment 13065
http://www.metalpickguards.co/fender...pickguard.html
I like the second suggestion hereQuote:
Originally Posted by WeirdBits
Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
WOW mate, looks awesome...Quote:
Originally Posted by EricB
Thanks guys, white and chrome it is.
Just ordered my new trem :D cant wait to get back home and start to poly this body :D
If anyone has any tips for finishing a maple neck and fretboard it would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers, Eric
Well only going from what i tried on mine, i used a stain on the back of the neck, built up the coats with a wipe on poly, one per day, it dried fast, then finished with one coat of high gloss clear acrilic, which dried fast also.Quote:
Originally Posted by EricB
The fretboard i first used a beeswax polish, but didnt like the low matt finish so i used a burnishing oil that gets a higher shine every coat you apply, i applied 3 coats for a low satin finish. Just my 5c worth.... btw i agree with Wokks, a pearloid pickguard with chrome hardware would look awesome...
Bit late getting a hold on this thread but liking the progress so far.
Here are some shots of a brushed aluminium scratch plate I put on my son's hot rodded strat which you can buy on eBay.
Used an Acrylic mirror before and that scratched up way too easy and as this one is metal coated it should not scratch up as bad as the last one.
Attachment 13118Attachment 13119Attachment 13120
Holy Thread Revival Batman....
So I've managed to climb back off the face of the earth i've fallen off :)
Trimmed out a headstock, i have stuck to a traditional style, freehand on the scroll saw turned out better than i expected
Attachment 13508
This arrived a couple of weeks ago :( i can finally set out the body marks for drilling.
Attachment 13509
Then last week, i happend to wander into a store and see this for a couple of hundred...
It needs some TLC, but she sounds sweet... its a 70's Jag/JazzMaster thing..
Attachment 13510
Yum looks nice. The axe is coming along great mateQuote:
Originally Posted by EricB
Over the last couple of months work has had me smashed :(
@ trips to WA, a trip to NSW and then PNG has seen me have 0 time to work on my axe.
Over the last couple of weekends I've managed to cobble together a small bit of progress...
Attachment 13955
Attachment 13956
The clear needs about a week to harden enough to wet sand, then i might go again on another couple of coats of poly.
Neck is finished in a satin with a lemon creme on the fretboard.
Eric
Looking good Eric.
Thanks waz!Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Loving the finish on the body of your Strat, she looks cool.
I might have to give one of those Babicz bridges a go one day.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrNomis_44
it was supposed to just be a black strat! when I saw the ash it was too good to pass up!
The Babicz is a nice piece of kit, though the trem block is a bit lighter than i was expecting.
Ill put it together before I go looking for replacements.
On the plus side, the 6 holes are beveled and the screws are notched - a la PRS, this thing should have pretty decent sustain.
Yeah nicely done, it would have been a real shame to have hidden that grain, you've really brought it out and that red is just magic! Love your work!
Cheers Dude!Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Quote:
Originally Posted by EricB
If you ever do end up looking for a replacement, you could consider getting a Supervee Bladerunner Bridge, I had a Chrome one on my old Black Fender Mexican Strat and it did work well, the Sustain Block is made from a light metal that SuperVee call "Sustainium", what makes the Bladerunner Bridge different to most other Strat bridges is that the Bridge pivots on a thin piece of spring-steel rather than a set of 6 screws, there are four screws which are simply used to attach the bridge securely to the body, here's a link to the SuperVee webpage so you can see what the Bladerunner Bridge looks like:
https://www.super-vee.com/products.html
Thanks dude, i really like the design of the babicz, i'd just upgrade the block to something a bit heavier if it needs it ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by DrNomis_44
Quote:
Originally Posted by EricB
Maybe something like a Brass Sustain block then?, Brass does tend to be a bit heavier than the standard metal used to make Sustain blocks, so, if you're looking for lots of Sustain Brass is probably the way to go, incidentally, lots of 70's guitars tended to use Brass hardware, Yngwie Malmsteen, a well-known Neo-Classical guitarist from Sweden, uses Brass nuts on his signature Strats.
Hey Doc, I think he uses Brass Nuts for the bright ringing tone as the difference in sustain compared to bone wouldn't be much at all.
I bought a Brass one for my Tele which looks a bit short in side-on profile with an already very low action. They are great for root chords or any open string notes but a right proper B@!#%h if you need to work on them as the metal is so hard to file down. Still yet to figure out if it is a keeper or just order a bone one from DB.
On my old Strat I didn't use the whammy bar and just wound in the spring claw as tight as it would go, put 3-5 springs on and that gave it a helluva lot of sustain. Suppose if you want to use a whammy the compromise is a drop in sustain.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
That's true, apparently Eric Clapton blocks the trems on his Strats to get better sustain, he tends to do quite a bit of string-bending too, I seem to remember reading somewhere in an Interview that Yngwie Malmsteen said he puts Brass Nuts on his Strats so that he could get the tone of the open-strings more consistant with the fretted notes, I think that the benefits are open to debate, and I've always tried to keep an open mind about it, but really it all comes down to what works for a particular guitarist.
From my experience as an apprentice Fitter and Machinist, I've found that Brass is actually not really all that hard, but your experience has obviously been different to mine, anyway, some people like them, other's don't.
Red and black look great...hopefully you'll get some more time to work on your axe soon