I had a bridge made to suit so I could do through body stringing. Was too hard to find any with the right string spacing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechanixxxer
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I had a bridge made to suit so I could do through body stringing. Was too hard to find any with the right string spacing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechanixxxer
Well now I'm tempted to try it, being the rebellious not-quite-a-teenager-anymore that I am :cool:
Ah okay, thanks Tindrrel. Might just stick with the supplied bridge in that case!
Brett do a selfy at Bunnings at your own risk, I've got 3 x life in the naughty warehouse so my care factor is zero now hahah
Looks like a job for Ponch! I'll fire up the kwaka
Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
hows that for quick response time Ponch. There goes the neighborhood (the sound of a Kwaka firing up haha)
I'll try and avoid the Bunnings selfie then...
With that snail tape, is the adhesive conductive, or will I have to fold over/solder the pieces together? Do I have to try and make sure the metal pots etc don't touch the shielding? I've never done it before, and none of my other guitars have any shielding other than the cavity control cover.
Hi Brett, you need to overlap the tape in the cavities and definitely want the pots to make contact with the shielding as you won't need an earth wire between the nack of the pot casings. If there is a recess for the pot make sure the pot lugs don't make contact with the shielding as this will short out the signal
EDIT I missed a question you asked, no need to solder between shielding pieces, as long as they overlap and make contact. Also no need to fold over the edges
Ah, that makes life easier, thanks for the help Wokka
Edit: Something I unfortunately overlooked in the mock build, I only have 4 of the 5 neck screws. Damn
Another neck issue, the neck seems to have a piece of metal in it (Truss rod?), right where one of the screws for the neck goes in. Which means I can't actually screw it all the way into the body. Any workaround for this? Is it possible to try and cut the screw shorter or something?
wow Brett that is a real concern. The thing is we don't know what angle the truss rods have been installed so I'd say 99% sure one of the truss rods is in the way.
I just looked at my IB6, is the hole on the side with 2 or 3 neck screws ? You better try drilling all 5 screw holes to make sure the truss rod isn't in the way of the other 4 screws.
If you feel the drill hitting metal then stop drilling.
Might need to offset the neck holes in the neck pocket which won't be a small job !
How deep is the hole ? if its about 15mm deep may be enough to get some bite but you will need to cut the neck screw as you mentioned
It lines up perfectly with the truss rod so I would say it is definitely that. It's on the side with 3 holes, but I just took off the end of the screw with some tin snips and that did the trick! It's deep enough to get some grip but a few mm shy of the truss rod. Hopefully that won't cause too many issues down the road. Still one screw short though! :(
Edit: No other problems regarding the truss rod placement and screw holes, just the one
I've also found that one of the 5 screws for the bridge is the wrong size, and much too big. That'll teach me to rush through the mock build next time :p
Kind of a dumb question, but which colour wire indicates the bridge/neck pickup? I assumed red = bridge, like on all the guitar pickups I've ever bought, but the red wire is significantly longer than the blue, so I'm not quite sure if that means anything or not
Hi Brett. No dumb questions. Generally the longer wire pup will be the neck pup. Have You got a multimeter? Usually the bridge pup will have a higher resistance
I was going to get one when I went to B*****gs, but I totally forgot about it
Thanks Wokka, I've just used to longer wired pup in the neck, should be okay
Well here we go, finished! Minus a few minor problems and blemishes (me rushing) I'm pretty happy with it.
It needs a proper setup/intonation, but I don't think that I'm quite good enough at that so I'll take it to the music store later this week.
Thanks for all the help everyone, really appreciate it.
I'm already drooling over the 7-string LP kit so I'll probably be back in a few weeks :cool:
Nice one. Another one with the machine heads angled downwards. I tried mine like that and ended up putting them straight out again.
Have you really let the tru-oil have enough time to cure?
I really like the Warwick look so I figured I'd go for it and see how it turned out.
Probably not, and there are bits and pieces that would have benefited from me being more patient as well. But I'm just going to let it sit for a while before I really start abusing it. things to be aware of for the next build I suppose!
I'm also having some grounding issues but I'm not sure where I've gone wrong. Touching the strings/bridge stops all the hum, but it hums like crazy when I'm not touching it. I do have a ground wire from volume to bridge as well. Any ideas?
Have you got a meter you can check the grounding is all connected with?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechanixxxer
Those black bridges you may need to sand away some of the paint on the underside where the ground wire pokes out from the body underneath. The paint insulates it. (I also had to poke the meter probe in the head of the screw to make contact as the top part of the bridge is also insulated.)
I don't unfortunately, I might pick one up tomorrow though. Seems handy!
Ah really? Okay, I'll try sanding some of the paint off and see if that helps. Thanks Sam
Have you copper shielded the cavity?
If so, you wont need an earth jumper across the pots.
Other than that, wot Tin said :)
I did shield it, but it was at about 2am, and upon inspection today I did a terrible job of it. Gaps everywhere :mad:
I'll try redoing it better, and grabbing a multimeter today. I sanded the paint off the back of the bridge but that didn't help at all either. Touching the pots also doesn't reduce hum so I'm wondering if they're not part of the circuit or something too...
If you can't find the fault, post some pics of your wiring and we'll see if we can spot any problems.
Pretty messy. Multimeter says everything is connected. I'm probably missing something really obvious though.
Shielding with recessed pots can sometimes cause hard to find shorts, complicated with the preamp and the power/signal ground switching and separation. Just check that none of the pot lugs and/or circuit boards are touching the shielding. It may pay to put some electrical tape on the underside to the lugs to may sure they can't short with anything.
Also, check the wiring digram for your preamp and make sure you have the grounds connected as specified. They often have the power negative connected to the jack for switching, but keep the signal grounds separate.
And don't forget to solder the joins in the shielding tape :)
There's no shorting, I did that the first time around but I fixed that, and I've made sure all the lugs aren't touching the shielding as well. The diagram just says to solder the bridge ground to the volume pot, which I've done, so I can't figure out where I'm going wrong.
Apparently you don't need to, DB! The adhesive is conductive :)
I sure hope I don't have to solder them anyway, there's about a million little pieces in there
whilst the shielding should work to create a connection between the pots, try running a wire from the volume pot to each pot in turn
like the black wire going from pot to pot in this pic
http://www.strat-talk.com/forum/atta...117_222840.jpg
Thanks Stan, I'll give that a shot.
Should actually ask first, how noiseless should I expect this to be? I get the feeling I might just be expecting too much. I'm used to noiseless active pickups.
Sorry for all the questions/problems, just not sure about a lot of this stuff. The strings are crazy high off the fretboard past the 12th fret, and lowering the saddles didn't do much. Any solutions?
not personally familiar with this kit, but it shouldnt be noticeable, i would have thought
post up some closeups and general shots of the action, this will help us give you some advice on the action
Glad it's not just me overreacting then. It's a fairly noticeable buzz, can't work it out.
Action pics: