yeah, that's the plan, just ran out of time. Also as I'm finishing it with Black stump the lines are guaranteed to darken :P
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yeah, that's the plan, just ran out of time. Also as I'm finishing it with Black stump the lines are guaranteed to darken :P
The lines might actually disappear comepletely with the black Maddog! Maybe add a touch of water to dilute it a smidge? Like im talking just a few drops out of a third of the bottle
keep sanding Maddog as Pest says, but should look good when it's cleaned up
So I'm getting there on the sanding, but the cracks on the joins seem to be getting worse:
Attachment 8345Attachment 8346
It could be because it's been left in the hot shed but I'm not sure
Do I have a go at applying some more timbermate slurry into the cracks or is there something else I should try?
Hi Maddog, those cracks do look worse, in a hot shed the wood will expand and compress and cause this.
I'd get some thin superglue with one of the thin nozzles and get as much glue in the cracks, let it dry, then get as much timebermate in as you can
It looks like there's no glue at those parts of the joints. The heat may be taking the moisture out of the timber, causing it to shrink back like that.
Would getting some moisture into the cracks close them up, maybe? But you'd have to get some glue in there to slowly dry once it's expanded... just thinking out loud for you...
I do have some titebond, need to work out a way to get it in the gap though
PVA glue can watered down a bit. The theory I've heard is that slower drying wood glues create a stronger bond because they have longer to penetrate the fibres further. Perhaps moistening the crack, and applying PVA will make the timber swell as the glue dries. DB probably has experience in these things!
I've never tried Titebond, so I don't know how to use it... I have to get to that large blue shop and get some before they go belly up!
titebond has about the same workability as pva so sawnny's suggestion should work fine
So after taking ages on the sanding I'm almost ready to go on the Dingotone
While waiting for stuff to arrive I've decided to start on the electronics, after getting a set of toneriders a while back I've decided to upgrade all the electronics, one reason being I'll be able leave the original wiring harness intact in case (when?) I screw something up.
A couple of questions that have come up, On all the wiring diagrams I've seen for standard Strat have a single .047 cap, the harness that came preinstalled had 2 caps (one on each tone pot iirc). is the 2nd cap necessary? Also linear vs Audio pots for tone, is there a better option or doesn't it really matter?
I'm sure I found a good post that covered most of this in a random thread a few days ago but cant find it again for the life of me.
Maddog
A cap per tone pot doesn't really matter - you get this arrangement in many other guitars, especially Gibsons. Leo Fender was a real penny-pincher and used the least number of components he thought he could get away with (e.g. Telecasters moved from 5 to 8 screw pickguards after a few years because the original 5 wasn't enough to stop the guards warping over time), so used a circuit that shared the capacitor between tone pots. No idea why the PBG kits do it differently but the result is basically the same. If I was upgrading pots and caps I'd re-wire it to the Fender standard method, but otherwise I'd leave it as it is.
Audio vs linear tone pots? All depends if you actually use the pots or not. If you always have them set on 10, it makes no difference whatsoever. But if you do play with the tone knobs, then linear pots (the generally selected pot type for tone use) will give you a noticeably darker tone for a small initial movement e.g. from 10 to 8, compared to an audio taper which might take turning from 10 to 4 to get the same darkening of tone. When set to 0, both pots give the same level of maximum dullness.
You can obviously get the same level of darkness in the tone using either style pot, it's just a matter of by how much you have to turn the knob to achieve it.
So if you occasionally like to just knock the edge off the brightness, then an audio taper would probably be the best choice, but if you are a regular tone pot adjuster and like to hear a difference quickly, then linear is probably the better choice.
Cheers Simon
Another thing I need to make a decision on pretty soon is what I'm going to do with the headstock colour wise. With the black and gold colour scheme I've been thinking about doing the front of the headstock black and getting a gold logo done from a mob in the UK (I think) that does metallic waterslides
I'm not sure if doing just the front of the headstock in dingotone is feasible so plan B is make the entire headstock black and blend it into the neck. I think making the entire neck black would be too much.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Maddog
It can be done you've just to get your prep right. Sand the daylights out of the stock edges up to a really fine grade, 1500 or 2000 grit to help repel the stain.
Go to an Auto supplies store and get some of their fine line masking off tape and apply this at the edge of the headstock face. You'd then use regular masking tape back from that to cover the feast of the headstock edge.
When you are staining, be sure to wipe back any excess or spill over onto the tape, just in case it penetrates beneath your masking tape.
Else what you could do is a "stinger" stain job, Attachment 16364
but you are still going to have to mask that off on the neck anyway.
If you try the face first, if it doesn't work out, you can rough the headstock edges back to about 180 grit and try for the stinger.
I'm not certain a stinger would look as good on a Strat headstock. Also I feel that if can't get the face to work there's no way I'll be able to get that kind of definition on the stinger. Hence why I'm thinking along the lines of blending the transition, or if you look at it from neck to headstock: Fade to Black :P
\m/ :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddogm
Well, folk do bursts all the time with DT or other stains, I don't see why it wouldn't work though I'd be running some test attempts first, though this is mainly due to my ham fisted technique with stains!
No reason you can't just do the headstock face in black. Easy enough to mask off the sides. You could always swap from Dingotone just for the face and spray it black. In that event, I'd spray the headstock first. then DT the rest of the neck.
Hi Maddog, I will share a little secret with you.... on my latest Tele build I plan to do a reversed out logo on decal transfer paper so that it comes out as transparent text/logo in the middle of a black sheet that can be dropped over the top of whatever colour, or textured properties for how you want it to look. You just simply trim the decal transfer along the edges of the headstock and job is done.
Another method is to actually photograph what you want to appear on the headstock and print that out on decal transfer paper and apply it to the whole face of the headstock.
I'm trying to remove the old nut to put in the DB bone nut I bought with the kit, I'm following the video DB posted but all I seem to be doing is destroying the old nut without it budging
Any tips for removing the nut?
I'm also suspect that DB might have installed a bone nut when he did the neck setup despite getting a separate loose nut. Therefore I may have unnecessarily destroyed a perfectly fine nut
And it's out
Now the slot isn't flat, the nut sits perfectly flat on my table, in the slot has almost 1mm of rocker at the ends. I can't for the life of me see what it's catching on
I doubt if DB replaced the nut then. I wouldn't worry about trying to see what's causing the rock, (1mm at the ends should equate to a 0.5mm hump in the middle), but get a suitable width needle file and level the slot off. It may simply be clear glue residue causing the rocking.
Thanks Simon,
I've got it near to flat but I'm worried about damaging the slot, especially filing the front of the slot.
I'm considering doing something like this before I start on the dingotone to make sure I've got everything working/fitting. Is there any reason I shouldn't?Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
You can always stick some masking tape on the slot sides, which should offer enough protection. If you start to wear it away, simply replace it. Or if you've got an old feeler gauge set you no longer use because its gone a bit rusty, then you could hold one of the thin feelers against the front of the slot.
Ideally, you'd go and get a suitable sized needle file, then grind the side edges off so that they're smooth and then dedicate the file to nut slots.
Try to avoid drilling any of the pickguard holes on the face as when wet sanding the water will get in the holes and sometimes lifts the wood a bit. Mind you, this never happened to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddogm
you can put the strat together and tape the pickguard to the body and play no problems. I did it recently and found the the pickguard was a bit off because i replaced the pots with CTS pots (which are bigger) and had to widen the rout a bit. (wouldn't have wanted to do that after I completed the finish)
Yeah I've done the same thing with the pots so of course want to test that at the least
Good job Maddog, looks like you take as long as me for your builds.
The catch being I've gradually upgraded parts as time has gone onQuote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
I've been experimenting with some headstock logo's, what do people think?
Attachment 16565Attachment 16566Attachment 16567Attachment 16568
Look great especially the second one
Sent from Android Nougat
Yes. I think second one as well. As well as on a F-type headstock It would also look good on a G-style one.
I agree , second logo, cool build
Presume Top Right is the 2nd one? If so, gets my vote too and closely followed by bottom left.
I'll be contrarian, I like all the others ahead of the second. But mostly because I think there is an instrument brand that already uses that font.
Hey Fretty, now you mention that it does look a bit Riccy.
here's where it currently stands:
Attachment 17206
Need to clean out the neck pocket (carefully) so the neck fits
Also need to adjust the height on the tone pots and the input jack
plan is to do full mock build from there before moving on to Dingotone
Really sorry mate but being a huge Big O fan nothing compares.Quote:
Originally Posted by dave.king1
Got the neck to fit:
Attachment 17217
Need to shave the pickguard now. The problems with upgrading everything.
Looking good to me. And at least you can solve your pickguard problem by removing material. A lot harder when the gap's too big!
I dig that gold hardware man. very cool:cool: