Ben, did you use a coping saw? Any trouble keeping the cut square? About to attempt the same.
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Ben, did you use a coping saw? Any trouble keeping the cut square? About to attempt the same.
that link doesn't show any photo Ben you just posted ?
Yeah i see that I will fix that now :P thanks manQuote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Attachment 5090Attachment 5091
manage to get some wood for a couple of scratch plates. The guys at screamingeagle.com.au gave it to me :D
I used a Scroll saw but you could use a Coping saw, would just take longer and you would want to make sure you clamped it down and had some thing to cut against to keep it straight.Quote:
Originally Posted by Island_Moose
nice one Ben, what is the darker timber on the right and how thick is it ? ideally you need at least 3mm thickness for a pickguard
Its 3mm thick they are going to plane it down for me so that its even. The darker timber is Jarrah the lighter is Huon Pine
no worries Ben, I'd tell them to take minimal width off. You can put thin superglue over it before you cut the shape will strengthen it a bit. Then sand it off once the shape is cut.
Yeah the width wont be touched till I cut it down to size. the superglue is a great idea. Im still waiting for Adam to send me my scratch plate as there has been a delay due to some shipping problems with the factory in china blowing up. But as soon as i have it i will use it as a template. Do you think i could router it out using the scratch plate as a template or scroll saw would work better?
doubt you could use the pickguard as a router template. Can't remember but the TL plate may have a bevelled edge.
I'd trace it with a clear line and scroll saw as close as you can then sand/file into shape.
Are those pieces of timber big enough for a pickguard ? hard to see their actual size in the photo
I sent the measurements I needed to him and made them 10mm bigger then i actually needed so that there is some room to play with. The Jarrah is to small on the width but he has some other cuts that are bigger that I will use.
ah ok, I didn't think in those pics the pieces would be deep enough for a tele pickguard
I measured the hight I needed its 3mm thick so it should be the perfect thickness for it.
no worries Ben I meant the width of the timber in the photos not being big enough for a tele pickguard, not the thickness.
But all good if he has pieces big enough for it
I sent the measurements I needed so i can only hope. plus the guy is not charging me anything for it so i really cant complain :) being nice for the sake of helping me out is an alien concept in most businesses and i really appreciate it.
good stuff Ben good service for free is hard to find !
wow, that is super nice of them. it's coming along well then Ben
The stain is finished and looking good. sent my neck to a friend who is currently doing some wood burning onto it. pickup cavity had to be widened so I did that and Its a snug fit but puts the bridge into the correct position for the intonation with the neck so thats good. As soon as I have my scratchplate and copper shielding the next phase is on. thinking about replacing the nut and machine heads. any recommendations of nut material? thinking brass of graphite.Quote:
Originally Posted by stan
Ben you can't go past bone nuts but brass and graphite still give a good sound
as DB says - bone for tone.
having said that, jazz guitarist Larry Carlton uses graphite on his back up guitar...
Bone is the shizz.