Nice work, that turned out pretty well and perfect for a right angled jack
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Nice work, that turned out pretty well and perfect for a right angled jack
Looks good to me.
Looks clean mate
OK, time for horrible thoughts.
Is this enough neck bolt to hold the bass neck properly...
Attachment 2649
That's about 9-10 mm of effective thread protruding.
I look at the head of the screw,
Attachment 2650
and I wonder if that hole should have been bored a little deeper so the washer and head are flush. (I didn't change it, that's how it came. Perhaps I should have?)
Suggestions please.
So I decided after much practice with a router bit installed in my dremel with the dremel cutting guide attachment I decided to do a test on a section of the cavity that would be hidden even if I decided not to go ahead with the recessing of the cover. It turned out smooth enough - my concern was that I couldn't predict how the wood would cut even though I'd practiced on a pine offcut.
Attachment 2651
Slowly and carefully I used the dremel to carve out the ledge the cover would sit on. I had masked out the area to cut with painters tape following the edge of the cover as a template.
Attachment 2652Attachment 2653
The completed cover recess, open and with the kit provided cover in place:
Attachment 2654Attachment 2655
Happy with that. I may make another cover, one that doesn't have bevelled edges like the provided one - but I'll wait to see after the wood finishing before that decision.
nice job Tindrrel, best get this done early in the build before sanding and finishing
Yep, aside from sanding down the lump where the bridge goes I've not even started yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
I'm still concerned about the neck screws too. Looked at a few pictures of guitars using similar arrangements and they all seem to have the washers recessed or flush.
post a pic of the screws you have been supplied. My neck screw holes were recessed with black washers.
Edit I scrolled up and saw the pics, my screw heads are recessed further at least flush so I'd drill the recess a bit deeper
Cheers. I thought so.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Think I need to worry about the thread already cut into the neck? I've already had two screws thread in when I was aligning the bridge.
should be fine, might need to drill the 2 neck screw holes a bit deeper. Make sure you put the existing 2 screws in before you drill the other 2 as the neck may have shifted a bit
Oh, I drilled all four already. It's just that I installed two of them to measure out the bridge with strings and not have a clamp in the way. I'll check the depth of the holes compared to how much extra screw I get. Need to go buy another new hole borer now... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
yeah that will be fine if you already drilled the 4 holes.
Make sure you find a drill borer that is bigger than the washer diameter. Try get the depths the same
great job, this is coming up nicely
My Dingobass bone nut upgrade arrived today, so I checked it over then clobbered the old plastic nut with the end of a length of pine sliding over the frets.
The old nut:
Attachment 2721Attachment 2722
Came off fairly clean, going to go that with a small file to smooth off any old glue.
Attachment 2723
The new nut:
Attachment 2724Attachment 2725
Not actually glued down yet.
looks good Tindrrel. I got a bone nut cut by DB for mine as well.
Be worth putting the bridge on and test the string spacing for B and G strings
Looks great - encouraging me to get my IB-5 out again...
Bit the bullet and ordered the Bourns upgraded pots. They're a larger threaded section than the metric pots provided so had to enlarge the holes.
Attachment 2736
Now that's done, last of the drilling, routing and shaping, I can get to sanding the body for the finish.
Definitely wouldn't ever get a 24mm full size pot in there.
Attachment 2737
A pity, since I can't seem to find quality 16mm mini pots with a linear taper - despite knowing they are possible, since the kit came with some (even if all four pots, 2x audio and 2x linear have exactly the same code on the back).
good work Tindrrel,
so all the pots supplied are A or B type? should be 2 x A and 2 x B type
The kit provided pots are 2 x A and 2 x B.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
They are all labeled:
CHERKFAN
R1610NY
but I have confirmed with a meter they are 2 x A500K and 2 x B500K.
Googling about indicates even their 250K pots have exactly the same labelling.
However the Bourns upgrade available are A only.
Searching around other shops as well, the B type Bourns seem to be listed as discontinued - which might just mean no longer stocked.
CTS make a B500K of course, but I can't find any in the 16mm size. Same with the Gotoh ones, A comes in 16mm and 24mm, B seems to only be available in 24mm.
Of course there's plenty of discussion of if it matters. No, I don't really want to start that whole debate here... :)
I've always thought that my tone pots were linear so I set them middle and use the EQ on the amp. :)
The Bourns won't be linear, so again I'll probably just find a spot I like and set it on the amp.
So a few hours sanding (my last post was during a break from that).
Used 320 and 400 on the front, 240, 320 and 400 on the back until it all felt about as smooth as it was going to get.
The grain changing directions with each of the segments was interesting to cope with. Had to be careful at the edges of the veneer as the grain direction on the veneer and the direction on the body behind it rarely matched.
(Did earlier IB-5 kits have a veneer? Looking in the gallery they seem to have the lines where the separate parts of the body planks show through to the front - as if they didn't have a cap on them.)
Clean up, then apply the Dingotone Nullarbor Ochre.
I put a dash on a scrap of pine first and it was much redder than I expected, but I instantly liked it, so I went ahead.
I was expecting more like:
Attachment 2738
from the PBG store page on Nullarbor Ochre.
What I got was more like:
Attachment 2739
Aside from a couple of places it stained evenly. Perhaps these were repair spots. Along the bottom of the body and where the planks join under the top horn.
Attachment 2740Attachment 2741
Give it a few days and then some and I'll apply the intensifying coat.
Not very ochre at all! Looks great though.
hey Tindrrel, that looks excellent, really the IB-5 has a cap, whats the back and sides basswood ? should be a full chunk of ash with maybe 3 or 4 pieces glued together.
Last batch of nullarbor ochre Bargeloobs applied was quite red too
Either way the colour looks excellent.
That is filler the factory has used the parts where the stain won't take.
looking at the cut ways it looks like no veneer, that is ash on the sides
Not sure if we're just using different words for the same thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
I'm not saying any of it is or isn't ash. My wood identification skill is not that good. The wood does appear to be all the same type.
The body is made up of a few blocks glued together.
Then there is a millimeter or so thick slice applied to the front of the body.
Attachment 2742
Might be clearer in this unboxing shot:
Attachment 2538
I was just wondering because these ones in the gallery don't look like they have that front slice - you can see where the body planks grain changes.
I'm not complaining, I'm just curious because it seems different to the ones in the gallery. So I was pondering if the kit had changed.
ah ok Tindrrel, got it, does look like the factory have glued an ash veneer on the top, that's a very strange move.
Just means the grain doesn't flow as much but still think it will look excellent when finished
Though it does mean that from the front the grain is consistent. Up until to the edges where it turns to whatever direction the main body grain runs at that point. From a general front view it should look pretty good.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Aw maaan. Thanks Weirdbits.Quote:
Originally Posted by WeirdBits
Course now I've drilled the holes bigger.
Those mini pots are metric.
you may be able to get some small bushes to fit over the mini pot shafts, but maybe next build
Tindrrel I think the bourns pots are mini pots with 10mm thread so you should be ok
Yes, but Weirdbits pointed out where I could get the linear ones I actually wanted, except they're the 8mm ones. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
I think I'll be looking into a couple of 8mm to 10mm thread adapters.
Aha. realparts also have Pot Adapter bushings for putting the 8mm pot in the 10mm hole.
Since I've preemptively enlarged the pot holes and then thanks to members here found the metric pots I couldn't previously see anywhere... it turns out the same people who had the pots also have 8mm to 10mm pot adapter bushings.
They look like this:
Attachment 2790
I figure two ways those can be placed, from the inside with the washer and nut on the front under the knob, or on the front under the washer.
Since the pots actually have a 10mm section near the body after the thread stops, if I fit that to the 10mm hole, then the bushing can go on the outside under the washer.
Attachment 2791
This will give contact to the 10mm hole on both sides.
Problem solved, and with the vol/tone pot types I was hoping for.
Yes, the kit provided ones were the right types, the replacements feel and look nicer. :)
nice fix Tindrrel, it's nice to know there are parts out there for this issue
problem solved by a cheap piece of plastic !
Yep, bushings on the outside would work best as then your cavity shielding will still have direct contact with the pot bodies and ground them too. Glad you got it sorted with the pots you wanted.
The Dingotone Colourless Neck Finish kit arrived in the mail today.
I'd already sanded the neck before I started on the body as the predrilling decisions had all been made.
So this:
Attachment 2792
has become this:
Attachment 2793
The colourless as the name suggests doesn't change the colour of the wood so much as it deepens the contrasts.
I like how it looks.
Now to let it hang for a week. In the meantime I'll find where I hid my waterslide paper and design and print a headstock logo.
nice one Tindrrel. So is this your first build ? You seem to have a good idea of the build process
My first PBG build.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Previous works include a no-name LP kit and a Saga fretless jazz bass.
I've been doing lots of reading of the forums and watched lots of the PBG videos.
Applied the first intensifying coat yesterday.
Attachment 2830
Still a little "wet" in the picture, but if it keeps any of that red tone I'm going to be pretty happy with it.
Give it a few more days and it'll get the second coat.
Very nice indeed
Got to be happy with that Tindrrel. Got to love dingotone on ash!