As for loctite, I believe I mentioned that. What I was getting at was putting loctite on the thread of the screw that holds the bearing on to the shaft so the bearing doesn't fly off mid cut.
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As for loctite, I believe I mentioned that. What I was getting at was putting loctite on the thread of the screw that holds the bearing on to the shaft so the bearing doesn't fly off mid cut.
Ahhhhhh, see? This is why my n00b level exceeds 9000. Sorry for the mix up pabs.
Andrew, with the drill press you say 55mm travel, is this the vertical height it can drop ? The measurement you need is the distance from centre of drill to the press frame - needs to be about 140mm from memory for bridge bush holes of a LP and probably similar for a tele string through ferules. A cheaper smaller press may only have a useable distance of 100 odd mm.
See how your 2nd hand 1/4" shaft router goes but if you end up upgrading to a new 1/2" shaft then it's recommended all your router bits are a 1/2" shaft. Maybe worth getting the 1/2" shaft router now, should have less trouble than using a 2nd hand one
With ya now mate. I'll check it all out tonight. Hope it's all good! Went to every hardware store and mackay, rang a few more. No one has 1/2" shank pattern follower bits with bearing on the shaft of any description. Will go with carbatec seeing as it comes so highly regarded.
55mm??? ....probably around 95mm short. :(Quote:
/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/Quote from andrew on October 8, 2014, 00:07
Gav, the drill press I got was second hand from a local up here. Has 55mm travel. Would that be enough?
For a tele you need at least 150mm *
* Also need a solid steel chain and secure lock to keep the tele from the Telenapper - but that's a different story!
Well bugger then haha.
Can you guys recommend one that won't break the bank?
Bosch make a ripper of a router that will cost you under $200.Quote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from andrew on October 8, 2014, 00:07
Thanks for the replies guys. Db, for safety sake do you think it wise to get a new router regardless instead of using one my brother just found in an empty house?
Gav, the drill press I got was second hand from a local up here. Has 55mm travel. Would that be enough?
The model is POF1200AE.
Thanks db. Now to save up for a beast drill press.
well done Andrew, like your drive and enthusiasm to get started on scratch builds. Takes a bit of setting up and expense but it will all be worth it in the end. Everyone has to start at the beginning
If you wanna know what tools you can get from the likes of StewMac just visit my or DB's man-cave. We got 'em all - which is also why we live on bread and beans every day (and why I try and get banished to the naughty room where there is beer and pizza aplenty!)
your not wrong Gav. Between you and DB you guys must own 20% shares of Stewmac !
We did get served hot dogs at your man cave last visit !
Yeah! Sold one of their awful fret crowning tools after having previously acquired a better option, enabled the reckless purchase that weekend of Hot-Dogs.....Quote:
/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/Quote from wokkaboy on October 9, 2014, 18:28
your not wrong Gav. Between you and DB you guys must own 20% shares of Stewmac !
We did get served hot dogs at your man cave last visit !
Yeah sm is turning into a fetish site for me. Unfortunately while I have a small budget, sm gear just can't be on the radar just yet. No idea how much having a kid costs so trying to put as much away as possible. Bad news though. Building a work bench today and my jigsaw went pop. Yay.
Question time though. Half inch shank bits are universally better than quarter right. Looking through carbatech and a few others and all the bits I need are all 1/4 though. Does the bits for the pup cavaties and neck matter if it's a smaller shank. I found a half inch shank 1.5" long flush cutter for bodies though.
hey Andrew, 1/4" shaft is fine, just try and match the router to be 1/4" collet
Naa they're not that much, just be prepared to fork out continuously in ever increasing amounts for (at least) the next 18 years of your life...Quote:
/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/Quote from andrew on October 9, 2014, 20:28
No idea how much having a kid costs so trying to put as much away as possible
Only 18 years... I still have the kids hands in my pockets at various times still... and the youngest is 32, the oldest is 37.. BEWARNED...it never ends lol bless their cotton socks... 8OQuote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from bargeloobs on October 10, 2014, 05:12
Naa they're not that much, just be prepared to fork out continuously in ever increasing amounts for (at least) the next 18 years of your life...Quote:
/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/Quote from andrew on October 9, 2014, 20:28
No idea how much having a kid costs so trying to put as much away as possible
Looks like that fancy sm neck setup jig is at least 1000 years of then haha
After having a look at suitable drill press' I can't seem to stretch the budget that far for the next while. Some people have said they use drill guides to good result. What do you guys think?
Drill guides are good :)
Grab a chunk of hardwood or steel (for that matter even aluminium square stock will work), you can use your baby drill press to bore the holes and then away ya go!
To be honest, the fancy pants SM neck set up jig is a waste of time and money....
Pretty sure the Gavmiester has one so he will be able to tell you first hand.
with the 1 1/2 inch bit - that can be a lot of torque and a fair load on the router - you would need a pretty powerful one, underpower it and you risk major tear out...
you are better off making more passes with a shorter bit - cleaner cut and less effort for the router. 1/2 to 3/4 would be plenty. the freshly routed edge becomes the edge for the bit's bearing as the route gets deeper.
let it wind down before you lift it clear of the pattern, or you risk damage...
good luck
Holy shit db I never even thought of that. By rights I should be able to knock up a guide with the 6 holes matching the bridge. You sir are a genius! Wouldn't have got the neck jig anyway, but it looks rad! Almost like a surgeon's table.
Thanks for the heads up Stan. The router I got is 1500 watts, 1/2 inch but came with a reducer. Will take your advice and err on the side of caution. Cheers.
Mine's for sale if you are interested! :) In brand new condition. Only ever used twice... ;)Quote:
/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/Quote from dingobass on October 10, 2014, 13:41
To be honest, the fancy pants SM neck set up jig is a waste of time and money....
Pretty sure the Gavmiester has one so he will be able to tell you first hand.
Haha I guess if you were full time teching it'd come in handy. For my one build every few months, not so much.
Personally, I'd never sell any of my little creations even if anyone wanted them . . . although, Madame Toussuad's has expressed an interest :P
I looked into the neck set up jig and came to the conclusion that by the time i got the neck in it and set it up i could have the job 3/4 finished.....
Stewmac do sell some great tools but IMHO a lot of thier tools are over priced toys.....
Totally agree. In my very early steps of luthierdom, basically routing a solid body guitar, the only thing I think Would be a good investment is the pickup template pack. And the notched straight edge but I plan on doing extended range guitars so I don't want to have to buy one for a Gibson scale, fender scale, another for 27" and for 30". Could just make my own in a steel rule like one of the guys did here.
Mate... I wouldn't even bother wasting your money with SM doing that, give this dude (pablopepper) a holla and he'll make you up any router template you can think of at a fraction of the cost.Quote:
/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/Quote from andrew on October 10, 2014, 19:35
I think Would be a good investment is the pickup template pack.
Thanks mate. Better Yet I should probably learn to make them myself and stop being so Damn lazy haha.
Orr that:PQuote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from andrew on October 10, 2014, 19:54
Thanks mate. Better Yet I should probably learn to make them myself and stop being so Damn lazy haha.
I had a go at making a humbucker template, f@*ked it right up and gave up in the end, it's soooo much easier to have someone precision laser cut them for you but if you wanted to do your own the easiest way would be out of marine ply I reckon, and like Wokka mentioned, make them nice and big so you're able to clamp them easily to the body without the clamps getting in the way of the router.
Sorry to bring this up again, but before I buy the bits I just wanted to run the list by you guys. A 3.2 mm roundover bit, a 1/2" diameter inch long for the cavities routs and a 3/4" diameter 1 1/4" length for body edge routs. Cheers.
First one yes, second one I would go for a 1/2 x 1/2 long and the third one is fine :)
Thanks again db. Ended up with the 2 you said were the go, a half inch diamater by 3/8" length and a 3/4" x 1".
Oh... One i forgot is a 1/4 for doing the corners of your pup rout outs.. Sorry :/
No worries mate. At this stage I'm only doing Tele bodies anyway so the pup routes will be under the wood hiders. Will the half inch still be ok? When I start doing routes for humbuckers ill for sure get for 1/4" as well as some new bits. The ones I got are from mcjing tools, carbide tipped but a bit cheaper then carbitec. I'll probably stuff them up not knowing what I'm doing but when I start doing proper bodies I'll get some smashing bits.