tempting offer mate, you'd probably do a better job - not sure I'd see it again though...
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tempting offer mate, you'd probably do a better job - not sure I'd see it again though...
Now, I know that I should have done any body modifications before attempting to do finishing, but I'm impatient and excited to see what it may turn out like.
Once this is right then the mods for the pickup and controls will take place before any clear layers.... perhaps :(
As such, the first layer of black 8-) :
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/022.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...ject/025-1.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...03f25c649e.jpg
The solid top with stained sides looks rad.
thanks PP, stole the idea from bargeloobs' Blacktop LP
Looks great man. Are you still going to do wine red or just straight black?
Satin or gloss?
This is looking awesome
Hey Nick, thanks, it was going to be one or the other- so black it is - high gloss for this one
closer look at the black, can still see the grain through the paint, I like it:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...8ca496b4b4.jpg
Mmmmm better let me gloss this one Stan and the payment for me doing it will be no return postage. What a little beauty you have there.
hahaha Jarrod, whilst your painting skills are undisputed I feel your ability to give it back would be somewhat lacking...
cant lie Stan , there wouldn't be a cat in hells chance of you ever seeing it again.Quote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from stan on July 29, 2014, 17:47
hahaha Jarrod, whilst your painting skills are undisputed I feel your ability to give it back would be somewhat lacking...
just wait till all the cool stuff goes on.....
coming along nicely Stan, clear coats on should bring out the grain more
Thanks Wokka, they certainly do - first layer, acrylic clear, still wet, so looks glossy, dries a little flatter for the first layers. This is because the wood is stained, but not sealed as such:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...ject/001-1.jpg
is that clear applied with a spray gun or can spray Stan ? looking very shiny !
Spray can. Very shiney, but wet, first few coats will be a bit matte, then they will gloss up as they build, dry timber soaks up a bit
Looking great Stan! Keep up the good work. Can't wait to see her finished.
cheers,
Gav.
I am a bit towards looking after old stuff as it was, But sometimes you have to be bold in order to repair the ravages of time. The body looks georgeous with all it's clothes stripped off. I think you made the right decision to strip her back. I guess I know whoi will be the first to make use of my new slotted straight edge and fret rocker. Not to mention AJ's radius block. :)
I'm only a few pages into this diary. so I'll keep reading. Love what your doing.
PK
Ok Made it to the end. Looking pretty nice.
On the pickup if you cut those internals to fit a Humbucker I'd say the deck will warp.
As an alternative there are Graphtech piezo bridges, as well as Humbuckers that hang off the edge of the neck.
What I don't know about the graphteck piezo bridges is how the hell they are wired up. Each bridge saddle has a little piezo in it, so that has to be six wires, that must all join up some where. The down side of this idea is they cost a bucket load.
Hmmmm. Maybe P90's or mini Hums.
Then you have to put all the wiring in. it's all got to be a headache.
I'm keen to see which way you go with it.
:D PK
Thanks Paul, believe me , I didn't treat it lightly sanding away an original finish, and some will disagree. That's fine, but I like it.
Looking back, A bridge mount would have been a good idea, or one of those pickgaurd mount ones.
The internals are a simple pair of parallel rails down the body, same as this:
http://harmony.demont.net/kamikazie/images/22_025.jpg
My plan is to make a small box shape that will go through the pickup hole an glue to the inside of the top plate, to mount the pickup in. Hopefully no having to cut the rails at all and therefore not decreasing any strength...
And yes mate, at a later date, might hit you up to borrow some tools and AJs block...
Hi Stan
so those rails are only about 60mm apart(Neck block width) and looks to taper a bit to the end block.
Also looks like they are shaped to the arch of the top as well.
Humbuckers may be too wide and deep, p90's are about 82mm wide.
I'm sure you'll work out something.
PK
PK
thanks mate, dog eared P90's would have been a good choice, but I have a Kent Armstrong hand wound jazz 'bucker that just has to go in it... time to measure it up...
It would be nice if you could get inside her and put an extra rail down each side of those existing rails.
PK
Now there is a thought - with a pickup hole cut in, there might be enough to get a rail in and between that and the f hole to hold it in place while it dries...
Or just enough space to reinforce around the pickup hole.
Make a template of the top and transfer it onto the reinforcement so it follows the shape inside...
Well it's been a while, computer was out of action, but things have moved on.
Exterior coats on the body are done:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/052.jpg
With some bow in the neck and my desire for a different radius fret board (and I dont like the original), off it comes:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/056.jpg
Combination of heat gun, heated putty knife and wedging the fret board:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/057.jpg
Last bit of fret board attaches quite well to the block that takes up the overhang...
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/058.jpg
Time for the steam iron:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/065.jpg
The glue separated nicely, but the steam damaged the surface:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/064.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/063.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/066.jpg
No problem, I am the paint it more than once master... haha:
Rub back - yay, only the clear was damaged:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/067.jpg
Mask up and re clear:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/085.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/096.jpg
Check the flatness of the neck:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/094.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/091.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/092.jpg
Not perfectly flat...
So, steam it and clamp it
or just put pressure on it
or sand it?
I do know I want a Tassie Blackwood finger board...
Maybe rout a channel for a truss rod?
coming along well Stan. Tazzy blackwood fretboards look great
yep Pablo, was thinking exactly that, truss rod would make it very easy to get right, just have never done it before.
I am thinking this is the way to go though...
Cheers wokka, yet another skill to learn, time for some radiused sanding blocks
I was under the impression this bad boy already had a trussrod of some description hiding in the depths. You're in there now Stan you may as well go the whole hog and throw one in. Looking sweet btw;-)
Determination seems to be winning the day here, especially after that alarming steam setback.
Fascinating watching this project develop - keep it happening.
Thanks Nige, so did I. If it has the steel reinforced neck I thought it had, it's very well hidden.
It makes sense to do it now the finger board is off, looks like I have some reading to do...
From what I gather, I route a channel and pop one in. I have also seen fingerboards partly routed to fit over the top as well. Happy for the experts to set me straight here.
Cheers Max, someone smart would have realised super heated water might possibly damage a painted finish... Inexperience is the mother of determination, haha
Some help please team:
OK: I have a truss rod, a router and a fingerboard blank made of blackwood. Some fretwire, and a radiussed sanding block: 12"
I'm pretty happy about making the fingerboard.
Adding the truss rod is another matter.
Is it simply a case of routing for the truss rod?
Anything special I need to consider?
It has one "open" side ,it appear that faces down...
I have seen full depth routes and ones that partially go into the fingerboard as well (sandwiching the truss rod between, with the fingerboard having a fine rout as well...)
I have marked out a centre line on the neck, and the next step is the route...
Oh, this is the truss rod:
370mm Martin style
http://luthierssupplies.com.au/produ...roducts_id=175
http://luthierssupplies.com.au/popup...ID=175&invis=0
Their instructions:
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
‘Martin style’ truss rods must be installed with the open taped side down towards the back of the neck and the flat aluminium side up towards the fingerboard.
We recommend that the slot for the truss rod be cut 0.5-1.0mm deeper than the depth of the truss rod. A 0.5-1.0mm fillet of timber should be used to cover the truss rod and fill the 0.5-1.0mm space above it.
The truss rod can be glued in place with some epoxy glue on the sides and top only, then the fillet of timber is placed on top of the truss rod and held or clamped in place while the epoxy dries.
The fillet and glue are then sanded flat to the top surface of the neck leaving a flat surface for the fingerboard to be glued.
IMPORTANT – Do not allow any glue to go on or into the open/taped side of the truss rod or around the nut as this may cause it to jam.
Groove side down Stan so the flat plate can push against your fret board. slot must be a nice tight to push in fit and sit .5mm under the neck face. then run some tape along the top so she don't rattle and glue your fret board on.I don't glue them , I make them a good fit.
Thanks Jarrod, so tape is enough, I don't have to put a slither of timber over the top?
So if I have it right - route a tight channel, .5mm below neck height, groove side down, tape and fingerboard?
Groove side has tape on it - remove?
Trick will be placement at the headstock end
i presume the tape on top only goes on the truss rod to make up the depth, and not across it onto the exposed neck - otherwise you would be gluing the fingerboard onto the tape...?
Na leave there tape on , You could put a slither of wood in but I let it press on the fret board. Have your hex head just under your nut like your LP . don't router it too long you want it to bottom out with the hex head in the right position.This how the great profit DB taught me and it works a treat.
sorry Stan yes tape only on the trust rod
cheers mate, time to make a neck routing jig , me thinks...
toys and supplies for the new fingerboard (old one also in shot):
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...ject/016-1.jpg
Great stuff Stan
Thanks Jarrod, I think making a routing jig for the truss rod pocket in situ will be the biggest trick... Everything I have watched on youtube is done on a neck blank with nice even sides. Either an angled fence and shallow router passes or find a way to add a guide to the neck and several dremmel passes