Any tips/guides on selecting the right drill bit for the screws?
Should I dip the screws in Tru-Oil? (I've heard you should - I assume it's either for lubrication, or sealing the hole.)
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Any tips/guides on selecting the right drill bit for the screws?
Should I dip the screws in Tru-Oil? (I've heard you should - I assume it's either for lubrication, or sealing the hole.)
Best IMO is to select a bit you think is close and drill a test hole in some scrap, then test the screw in the hole. I usually lubricate screws with a little linseed oil.
Cheers,
Gav.
I use some bees-wax on the screw. You scrap the first 1/3 of the screw in the wax and it lubes the rest of the thread as screwed in. BTW, I LOVE the flame in the neck, the neck timber must have been destined for the 'Fender Custom Shop' but found its way into your kit! Nice. Also the Basswood body looks sensational.
Thanks guys.
I've kept the largest maple off-cut to test the tuner screws, but I don't have any scrap basswood. Is untreated pine a reasonable test substitute?
I'm happy with the way the headstock is shaping up. The biggest time saver has been my Aldi 180W Hobby Tool; the sanding "belt" on the flexible shaft at the lowest speed has just the right mix of bite and control to clean up the curves. The biggest challenge is the "notch"; power tools can't get in there, and there's a fine line between removing bumps/grooves and creating new ones.
The body is nearly there, too. There's no escaping the fact it's a soft finish on soft timber. Sand/rub it back again? One more coat? (A bit of both.) Ditto for the neck; the current "satin" finish is quicker than the earlier gloss finish, but doesn't show the flame as well. I'll give it another coat and see what happens; the headstock can take a few more.
I've been noticing some residual Tru-Oil tackiness on the neck in the last few days. It might be weather-related (increased humidity), or I might need to add a bit more turps to thin it. (It's probably going off.)
I think I'll take it as a sign to stop "finishing" it, and just finish it! ;-)
I've moved the neck to a warmer part of the house overnight to help cure the finish, but will let it sit until the weekend before starting final assembly. *gulp*
I was annoyed to see this after cutting out the headstock:
https://www.aldi.com.au/en/special-b...roll-saw-120w/
After reading various forums, it sounds like these are for thin, intricate cuts only. Possibly okay for a headstock, but no good for bodies (band saw required.)
Can't wait to see this thing finally together. You've done a great job with the finish mate.
Ah yes the Aldi specials, I picked up a cheap random orbital sander from there for $29, this saves hours of sanding time.. not just on guitars.. ;)
I might also check out the scroll saw..
Pretty ballzy going for an all natural finish first up as you've really got nowhere to hide but it looks like you've pulled it off beautifully, great job so far.
Andrew: Next time (if there is a next time), I'll certainly be looking for short cuts.
Nick: It's certainly been an experience... You can get a good "natural" gloss finish using Tru-Oil on a basswood body - but for sanity's sake choose a harder timber! ;-)
ST-1L guitar kit (on special): $99
Finishing materials: ~ $50
Learning the hard way: priceless
I like "ballzy" - it sounds better than "n00b". ;-)Quote:
Pretty ballzy going for an all natural finish first up as you've really got nowhere to hide but it looks like you've pulled it off beautifully, great job so far.
I'm calling the neck finished. Glossy at each end, and satin in the middle (less coats) for easier playing.
The body is nearly there; two steps forward, one step back. As soon as I can get an even, glossy finish - it's done.
I had a small dull patch on the top from wet-sanding with P2000 to remove embedded fibres from when the Tru-Oil "turned". You're effectively starting from raw wood with those. :-( There's no quick fix - just lots of thin(ned) coats until it glosses over.
Update: Fortunately the Tru-Oil with a bit of turps is holding up okay. I've repaired the front, and have just given the back a final(?) coat to bring the gloss up. I'm getting the feeling that Tru-Oil on basswood gives a great "relic" finish - just wait a bit... While a bit frustrating, I did achieve my original goals: a natural, gloss finish which brings the best out of the wood, and a "vintage blonde"-like colour. I'm happy with that.
I haven't thought about a decal for the headstock; I don't want to hide the "tiger stripes", so maybe I'll put something on the body instead. (I'm not that fussed, really.)
After some more drying time, it definitely needs another round of 0000 steel wool and Tru-Oil. (Nooooo....)
The gloss is there, but not the smoothness - it's very close though. I've switched to a different fabric to apply the Tru-Oil; not quite as soft, but less likely to drop fibres. *touch wood*
Is there a video guide on how to drill and fit the ST-1 (vintage Strat) bridge? Fender has a good video on how to fit the bridge, but not on drilling the holes (they're factory drilled.)
Check out the video guide section on the site mate.
I did, but may have missed it; can you link to the specific ST-1 bridge fitting video? Ta!Quote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from andrew on October 10, 2014, 22:35
Check out the video guide section on the site mate.
Ozbird there's also a really great guide on Stewmac here:
http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online..._it_right.html
Thanks Nick - that makes things a lot clearer.
One thing that I've (belatedly) noticed is the holes drilled in the body for the neck are off-centre - or drilled at an angle. It looks okay on the back, but on the front they're noticeably closer to the top of the neck pocket.
Any suggestions on how to fix this? :?
My main concern is drilling the screw holes into the neck might punch through or split the neck.
I don't have a drill press, so straightening the holes is risky - but I really don't want to stuff up the neck.
Three years ago? Wow.
I dusted off the Strat au naturale again tonight; the Tru Oil finish looks better than I remembered. Nice!
I now have a bench drill, which should make drilling the neck easier?
While avoiding drilling the neck, I've been distracted by this spalted maple Les Paul kit:
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=4191
I wonder if you can Tru Oil over shellac? (I'll have to buy some more to try it.)
Yes, people here have Tru-Oiled over shellac without issues.
Just be aware that PBG aren't doing LP kits at the moment (and maybe never again) due to the big G getting all legal on copyright issues.
Thanks! I avoided using non-dewaxed shellacs for that reason.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden