And a pizza?
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And a pizza?
Think I should join you guys to. I have used nothing but that dreaded 'L' word on all my builds.
Surely that would gain me entry! Besides, I like beer and pizza too...sounds like fun.
New rules of the Naughty corner!
Rule 1: Bring a Slab of Beer
Rule 2: If in doubt, Bring Two Slabs...
Gav I really like those rules, lucky you, myself and AJ are founding members and don't have to buy any more ! haha
Sounds like a party - the beer is on me. Someone should build a pizza oven...
cheers,
Gav.
@ Gav --> if we hold the end of year naughty corner shindig at 4D we can cook pizza's in my wood fired oven ! Just going to be a long trip if you don't live in Perth !
hi guys,
Well, i've had a bit of a hiatus the last couple of days waiting for new Tru-Oil to arrive in the mail. My build came to a screeching halt because i forgot about rules 3r and 4 of using Tru-Oil. Do you guys know the rules of Tru-Oil?
Rule 1: You Don't talk about Tru-Oil.
Rule 2: YOU DON'T TALK ABOUT Tru-Oil.
Rule 3: Store your Tru-Oil with as little exposure to air as possible.
Rule 4: Don't use *old* Tru-Oil.
Fact is, this stuff goes cruddy after a month or two in the bottle after it has been opened. Normally I try to increase the shelf life during a project by following rule 3 and a) only pricking a small hole in the top, b) squeezing all the air out of the bottle every time I replace the cap, and c) keeping it upside down when not using it.
However, at the end of my last Tru-Oil build, having just started a new bottle, I didn't do any of these things After 2 months and a new project I found myself using the same bottle again without a second thought and noticed a really rough surface after application. Looks like the oil has started to oxidize in the bottle and has produced little specks of dried crap all through it. Dag-nab-it!
So, now I have a softly-softly process to try to sand those specks back down to nothing without sanding through to the dye underneath. Will see how it goes once my new tru-oil arrives. Repeated applications and wet sandings may be appropriate. Dunno. I wasn't planning on using a lot of Tru-Oil this time around as it was....
In the meantime, I have been looking at my colour choice and doubting that as well. In certain lights right now the top almost looks lipstick pink FFS! I know it will darken up a bit with the oil soaked into it, but still it is worrying me. I put the gold hardware on there to see if this allayed my fears...
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...thhardware.JPG
It did somewhat - it does look *pretty ok* but not the jaw drop I was after. Hmmm. How to fix it now that a couple of layers of Tru-Oil have been applied? Not sure. Maybe add some colour to the clear coats??? Colortone dye in Acrylic or Poly clear? Anyone tried this?? What do you guys reckon?
cheers,
Gav.
Hey Gav. That looks spectacular with the gold hardware! The whole vibe of the thing just shines. That guitar has it's own mojo!
Gav, when the Tru-oil goes cruddy, try mixing some Shellite in the bottle and this should sort out the cruddiness.
Off to resume my spot in the corner, Gav, please bring beer.....
Hey Gav, just a heads up, those steel pickup rings you've got might not work. I used them on my tele and loved them, we were going to use them on my brother's ESG-1 but found when you screw them down the screw holes bend outwards and bind the screws making height adjustment pretty much impossible. We sanded the top off plastic rings and used the steel ones on top.
@Lawry - Thanks dude. The colour isn't as dark as it looks in the photo, but I do like it beter with the hardware on.
@Gav - Shellite eh? Thanks for the tip. I'll give this a try asap! Beer on the way!
@Pablo - thanks for the heads up. I used similar rings on my ES335 and they seemed ok, but I might have to find arched top 'normal sized' mounting rings.
cheers,
Gav.
Quick question Gav, I'm a newby to dies and Wudtone etc.. Once I have put the deep colour on is the oil we never speak of ok to put on top or should I put the base coat on first of Wudtone
@jarrod - interesting question! Personally I have never mixed the two (tru-oil and wudtone) so unfortunately I can't hazard an opinion. I usually use tru-oil over Colortone dye from Stewmac whereas Wudtone is itself an oil based product. For me the wudtone deep colour and then base colour coats are analogous to the colortone dye and then tru oil steps. The base colour coat is like a mix of oil and dye all in one step. Not much help with your question, but I have never felt the need for tru-oil over Wudtone.
Hope this helps (at least a little)
Gav.
@jarrod - But personally I would stick with the Wudtone deep + base coats and then see where you are after that. The finish (in my experience) won't need much else but the Wudtone clear to finish it off..
Cheers,
Gav.
Thanks gav
@Gavmeister - you are a bloody marvel! Adding Shellite worked wonders with my cruddy old Tru-oil. All the greebles are gone and it's wiping on smooth as silk again!
Cheers,
Gav.
hi guys,
Got about 12 coats of tru-oil on the front and back of the Florentine and have wet-sanded every few coats to 800 grit. Time to start with the 1200 grit and thinned Tru-Oil!
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...3068_small.JPG
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...3069_small.JPG
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...3074_small.JPG
Starting to look nice, especially on the back. Hard to believe that this is only basswood! I really like how the wine red stain has come up. Wish the front was a little darker, but I'm thinking of spraying a little clear this time around and maybe I'll add some more Colortone dye to the clear. Maybe even a little dark burst around the edges? Dunno.
cheers,
Gav.
That's looking excellent Gav. You have a lot of patience.
NI-ICE!! That's like crushed velvet.
Looks amazing Gav.
SHINEY - nice work
Hey Gav , Looks amazing dude. What compound do you use to buff out any lines left by the application cloth.
Thanks guys, it's coming along! I've made some serious misjudgements with this one (mostly colour choices) which I am putting down to excitement and impatience. I am at least becoming more and more comfortable using dye with each build.
@Jarrod - with the Tru-Oil I find that the finish settles if I can get it on there fast enough and have my last pass wiping with the grain. However it is also often the case that the stuff doesn't dry flat, either because of low humidity, high temperature or whatever. In these cases, it is wet sanding to the rescue. I usually sand to 600 grit before applying the dye and first coats of Tru-Oil and therefore I start wet-sanding at 800 grit after every 2-3 coats (6 coats initially). Once a grit looks pretty uniform, then I move up. From 600 to 800 grit and then 1200, 1500 and 2000 grits. For the 1200, 1500 and 200 grits, I start to thin the Tru-Oil 50:50 with mineral turps. This makes it dry slower and settle better to produce a really level finish.
With Wudtone? Well, that's a different story. I *always* end up with wipe marks after applying Wudtone clear coats. I dont know what I am doing wrong, but they are there. The coats are so thin I dont feel confident wet sanding them. The only thing I have found that works for me is to buff the clear coats out at the end with Colortone medium, fine and swirl remover compounds. I have also found though that the Wudtone clear is quite a thin layer so it is possible to rub through, especially on the edges of a solid-body.
And now the disclaimer! I have done 2 wudtone builds, and both times I have looked at the Wudtone clear coats and, even though they came up nicely with the compound, I resorted to a few coats of Minwax wipe-on poly to try and increase the shine and give me more protection. I really wish I knew what I was doing wrong with the Wudtone clear coats! With the poly added the final finish looks good, but it kinda renders the use of Wudtone redundant as far as tone goes..
Anyway, I hope this helps.
cheers,
Gav.
Well thanks for that Gav , I have joined the naughty corner and I am in the process of putting tru oil over my Wudtone Deep coats and I am having great success but was getting lines from the rag still . A wet sanding I go then and I will start thinning with turps too. Cheers for sharing that mate
@Jarrod - no worries dude. Let us know how you go. The tru-oil can also be rubbed out with compound at the end for a really nice shine!
cheers,
Gav.
Well, the neck is finally set on the Florentine. I was a little nervous - I've never set a neck before - but everything seemed to work out OK. Well, I guess I won't really know until mid week when the clamps come off, but here's hoping...!
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con..._neckglue1.jpg
The nice thing about this build is that the bridge posts aren't drilled yet so I didnt have to worry about string alignment while gluing. I can do the bridge in a second step and worry about alignment then. 8-)
cheers,
Gav.
Looking very classy Gav, that would look nice on my wall as good as it would in my hands
Looks Awesome Gav! I'm barely into my first build but these photos are making me want to grab another kit already....
@Jarrod, @Crundes: thanks guys. The colour isn't quite as dark as I was hoping for, but it's coming along!
Cheers,
Gav.
Wow Gavin, that body looks almost irridescent with what reminds me of "watered silk" from times gone by.
I really like the colour so far too - this is gunna be a stunna.
Hey Gav. Wish you lived closer. I would love to play some jazz on that. It's gorgeous.
@Max: yeah you gotta love that quilted maple veneer. Could have done more with it (popped it more) but it's looking ok as-is.
@Lawry: I imagine after bludgeoning my way through Smells Like Teen Spirit for the tenth time, the guitar is gonna wish you lived closer too!! ;)
Cheers,
Gav.
hi guys,
Well, i left the neck clamped for 2 whole days. Is it long enough?? I hope so. The clamps are off now and the neck joint looks good. I was a bit worried that the angle of the neck looked too shallow, so I immediately attached the trapeze tailpiece with a couple of strings across the bridge (no posts) to see what the relief was like. The strings are still on the deck (but only just) with the bridge sitting like this. I'm hoping that with the bridge posts in there will still be some adjustment necessary, allowing a nice action to be achieved. I'm finding this 'not being able to shim' is a real ball breaker! Anyway I think it looks ok, but the bridge posts will be the kicker.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...k_on_small.JPG
Yet another photo, and yet another different shade of cherry being shown. Hard to show you guys the real colour here. Always looks better in the photos!
cheers,
Gav.
well done Gav you must be proud of this build. Love the gloss factor. So another F hole wiring installation you've done one of these before ?
Flippin Awesome....hope this end up in the compo....me like.....!
@Gav: thanks for the kind words! :)
@Wokka: yeah I've done a 335 before using the fish pipe method. Frustrating as hell!! Not looking forward to the wiring phase of this one ;).
Cheers,
Gav.
if you have built a 335 then it should be easier 2nd time and pot distances look a bit closer to the F hole in this one. Is the input jack on the side about same place as a Les Paul ? Noticed its a long way to the pickup selector, might be a coat hanger job to get that far !
Looking awesome here Gav - loving it!
@Wokka: yeah the 5mm aquarium pipe should see the pickup selector right (i hope!!). I've bought some shielded 4-core wire from Stewmac to help me wire the sucker.
@Brendan: thanks man. Here's hoping there isn't some last minute stuff up! ;)
cheers,
Gav.
That really does look beautiful Gav...what a lovely job you've done.
Been meaning to ask how do those GFS pickups sound? Have you tried any of their others as well?
Been looking through their extensive range, and for the money they look very tempting.
Especially for someone as musically challenged as myself :? it's not a lot to outlay to upgrade a kit.