Quit while you're ahead Pest! :PQuote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from keloooe on June 14, 2013, 08:12
Nah Gav, you feel ancient now!
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Quit while you're ahead Pest! :PQuote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from keloooe on June 14, 2013, 08:12
Nah Gav, you feel ancient now!
But you have to teach me how to build an acoustic first :P
Amazing set of skills you have there Gav - as I mentioned in DB's Baritone thread it must be truly satisfying to be able to create such masterpieces with your bare hands from scratch. It's all a bit over my head at the moment but I love reading/watching the progress. Awesome stuff.
Thanks MetalMatt!
Day two of the build and we are getting ready to make some braces and put these on the back and soundboard of the guitar. The go-bar deck is going to be critical in this phase as we need to use the fibreglass rods to clamp the braces down onto the body.
What-is-more, these braces will be radiused and we will use a radiused dish with 40 grit sandpaper to achieve this and we will actually position the back and soundboard in the dish inside the go-bar deck to glue.
Also of critical importance is that the humidity needs to be at around 40-50% to ensure optimal gluing results are achieved.
You can see the radius in the dish below.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...y-IMG_0459.JPG
I use a 15 foot radius for back plate bracing and I use a 28 foot radius for the front soundboard. These can be obtained like so much other stuff (the 40 grit circular sandpaper) from StewMac.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...x-IMG_0462.JPG
I need to measure up the back to glue the braces into place. A strip runs along the centre line where the two back halves were joined. These are glued first. It is esier to measure up and get these pieces aligned if you use a ruler aligned to the centre markings.
When sanding to round off the centre braces, layers of tape alongside the braces will be useful for protecting the wood.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...2-IMG_0466.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...a-IMG_0467.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...x-IMG_0469.JPG
Tape in place once the glue has dried!
Bottom picture also shows the profile of the central back brace.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...7-IMG_0473.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...d-IMG_0475.JPG
Glue the intermediate bracing pieces first. Once the glue has dried then shape the braces using either a thumb plane or sandpaper to produce a rounded curve. Allow these intermediate pieces to overhang the marked positions of the braces. This is to allow a tighter fit when the main braces are glued. Cut these extended pieces with a blade or chisel. When the main braces are glued you will need to use a 15ft radius template.
A softer piece of wood strip is positioned between the brace and the fibreglass rod to prevent the rod from denting or damaging the braces.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...c0-Photo12.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...l9-Photo13.jpg
Once removed from the Go-bar deck, you will be looking for this type of result! :)
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...e-IMG_0478.JPG
When it comes to gluing the sides of the guitar together, use will need a head block and a Tail block. The tail block is always something that can be decorated to add to the overall look of the guitar. It is also useful in hiding mistakes if you haven't quite bent the sides symmetrically!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...-Tailblock.jpg
Now to glue the sides together at the tail block. Its an easy job if you know how!
The main thing is to have a perfectly parallel strip in the centre of the tail block if you are reproducing the type of tail block I am using here. Glue liberally, and initially clamp lightly. force the sides until they align with the centre strip on both sides and then allow to dry for two hours or so. Four clamps is a must. You want this glue to stay stuck for a very long time! Two cauls placed at both ends where the clamps would otherwise damage the wood are a must. I also use wax wrap under the area where I am gluing to prevent glue spilling where it isn't wanted!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...mng-Photo7.jpg
Amazing build diary Gav, I had no idea so much work, preparation (x3), and equipment is required. When were these photos taken and this acoustic built, was it recent ?
You must have more shares in Stewmac than DB does and thats a big call !
Hi Woks!
It is a bit of a mish-mash! I am combining pictures taken of two scratch builds that I am doing at the moment, you will see them when we catch up at the Lair, with my first ever build. I went nuts with the camera recording everything I could when on the guitar course. However, I also want to use these two builds to highlight the process as well.
Hence there are photographs that are absolutely current and there are photographs from two years ago.
I am more likely to have more toys, sorry guitar building tools, than DB only because acoustics require a lot more processes than are required with an electric! The good thing though is all the acoustic tools work with the electrics! :)
Another of my forum projects that got derailed due to competing issues. I will get this Acoustic thread back on track if there's interest in it!
You've certainly been busy! Hope you got a break over the festive season. :D
sure Gav please continue this thread, sure there is heaps of interest on the acoustic build side !
you bet there is interest Gav, post away!
Just fantastic to see how you are going about creating an acoustic.
I tips me lid to you matey.
I have more than enough challenges building solids and will stick to the lesser of two evils.
As has already been said, it takes serious luthiery & other skills, serious tools & machinery & lots of patience to do what you do.
Keen to see more installments . . .
Are you kidding Gav? Of course we're interested.
Although it is a project that very few, if any, of us would attempt, it's great to see the process, and marvel at the true art of a Luthier.
Keep 'em coming mate.
rob
Ok, motivation levels are high. I'll get on this!
Plus Gav - we can't get enough of the katalox :).
We now need to attach the Kerfing to the sides of the guitar. The Kerfing is those tiny little blocks you see when you look inside the body of the guitar. If you have a Cole-Clarke you wont find these!
Once the Glue has dried, the Kerfing needs to be shaped. The Kerfing is shaped using a flat spokeshave or plane at a 15 degree angle sloping down towards the outside of the guitar. The shaping should go level with the sides of the guitar. Finish by sanding the shaved area using 120 -180 sandpaper, to maintain the correct radius angle place fingers or a small block of similar depth under the side opposite where the sanding is taking place as shown. Or, you could use a radiussed dish which gives a far better result although it is a bit more work!
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...r-IMG_0506.JPG
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...5-IMG_0490.JPG
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...i-IMG_0509.JPG
Preparing to attach the back to the guitar sides.
We need to chisel out (or use a dremel- as I do) a cavity for the braces to sit in. This ensures a tight lasting fit and gives strength to the body of the guitar. The braces will also need to be trimmed to size during this process.
A specially prepared Pencil is slipped into the gap caused by the protruding braces.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...s-IMG_0550.JPG
Mark the kerfing with the pencil, and also mark the braces where these will be cut and duplicate this mark 3mm in.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...r-IMG_0525.JPG
With the guitar sides in the mold, position the back of the guitar onto the sides. Using a shaped pencil with plenty of ‘lead’ exposed, mark the position of the bracing that protrudes from the guitar and mark the Kerfing which will need to be cut out to accept the braces for added strength. Remove the back and view the marks on the bracing and allow an extra 2-3 mm depth before cutting off the protruding pieces of the braces. View the Kerfing and add a small insert to the Kerfing where the cuts will weaken the remaining Kerfing when the back is in place. Once this has been glued with quick drying superglue, make the cuts at an angle so as not to cut the rosewood sides of the guitar, then remove the material between the cuts with a chisel to depth using a piece of the brace which you have removed earlier for a tight supporting fit. A similar process will be done when attaching the soundboard.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...7-IMG_0527.JPG
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...4-IMG_0535.JPG
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...1-IMG_0529.JPG
Checking to see where small inserts made from the Kerfing will add support, and gluing these into the Kerfing gaps with quick drying super glue.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...5-IMG_0533.JPG
Checking depth of the chiseled cut to receive the braces using the actual offcuts from the braces. So smart!
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...2-IMG_0536.JPG
You may have to cut off a section of the center back brace to accommodate the Block.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...7-IMG_0551.JPG
Once complete with all the cutting and chiseling, check to make sure that the back and sides are level, make adjustments if necessary. Use a torch light and shine the light from the inside of the guitar body to assist with the process. If light is visible from the outside, you have gaps.
When no gaps are discernable, you can proceed to gluing the back to the sides.
Use Titebond and allow to dry for 90 mins to to hours until glue is clear. Guitar body should still be in the mold at this point and should be clamped down using the adjusted clamps made specifically for this purpose as shown here.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...i94f-Bsas1.JPG
When I built my first guitar with the Hancock's they encouraged us to glue up and then use these....but they are awful imho!
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...9-IMG_0554.JPG
Probably should include a picture of the glue up process. So here it is.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...1-IMG_0555.JPG
To get the glue up process to deliver great results, the following must be noted:
Begin inserting two clamps at the two block ends and a clamp each at the waist of the guitar and then at regular intervals along the mold. This ensures that the glue will dry evenly . Make sure the clamps are close to perfect length before starting to glue. The finished product, when viewed from underneath the guitar should look like the following.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...5-IMG_0564.JPG
Tuning / sanding the soundboard.
Flex the soundboard to get a feel for how it will vibrate. Is the soundboard flexible or stiff. When flexed, does one side appear flexible and the other less so. These are important considerations to the way the guitar will sound. As the sound board is usually around 3mm thick when initially prepared, you now need to tune the guitar according to its flexibility. It is usual to leave the area above the Sound hole which will be later covered by the fingerboard at 3mm. However, the area along the left and right hand sides of the upper and lower bout of around 4-6cm should aim for 2.5 to 2.6mm depending on the flex. If the guitar is stiff, aim for 2.5mm.
The end block area should target around 2.7mm, but 2.6mm may be more appropriate for a stiffer piece of wood.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...w-IMG_0557.JPG
Once ‘tuned / Sanded”, it is time to put on the braces for the soundboard. This is not done in one stage but in two to three stages on the Go-Bar deck.
First step is to position all the braces according to the template. The braces may need to be shaped. A mortise and tenon joint needs to be cut out for the ‘X’ brace. Recommended not to use preshaped ‘X’ brace where the cut is to be completed at the point where the wood has been preshaped as this not only looks unattractive and untidy but also doesn't provide the right amount of strength. Braces are usually made from Adirondack or Sitka Spruce Split Billets.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...0-IMG_0565.JPG
Perhaps an important point to note is that depending on whether the guitar is for a left handed person or a right handed person, the two braces as shown below may need to be re-positioned. The template depicts a right hand guitar, the braces would have to be positioned opposite for a left handed person as these braces affect the bass and treble sound of the guitar.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...i-IMG_0566.JPG
The bridge plate should cut slightly oversize so that it can be feathered and yet still slip under the ‘X’ braces for added strength to ensure it stays where it has been glued..
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...u-IMG_0574.JPG
When marking the bridge plate, a shortcut to the marking is to place the piece of wood as shown below (right up flush against the left brace and over the right brace) and mark. This ensures you have enough wood to work with and that you get your angles right.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...n-IMG_0575.JPG
‘X’ Bracing
Shape the ‘x’ bracing to receive the bridge plate, an angle of approximately 45 degrees on the bridge and a matching but opposite 45 degree angle on the brace so that the ‘x’ brace sits flush on top of the bridge plate.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...f-IMG_0578.JPG
It is very important to prepare a mortise joint such as that shown below. This gives proper strength.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...p-IMG_0580.JPG
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...5-IMG_0579.JPG
With the braces all shaped and ready in position on the soundboard, it is now time to go to the Go-bars. Glue the bridge plate, glue the thin sound hole strips and the brace in the upper bout position as shown below. Allow to dry for at least 2hrs in the humiidty room. Always glue only when humidity is 40%-50% otherwise your guitar will crack.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...6-IMG_0585.JPG
Then insert the ‘X’ brace as shown. Glue the overlapping sections of the first stage to the ‘x’; brace.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...0-IMG_0587.JPG