You got luckier than I did!!!!! Glue is now my mortal enemy.....Quote:
Quote from highace10 on May 9, 2013, 16:21
Having a quick look around the body it seems i have escaped the glue dramas that some people have encountered.
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You got luckier than I did!!!!! Glue is now my mortal enemy.....Quote:
Quote from highace10 on May 9, 2013, 16:21
Having a quick look around the body it seems i have escaped the glue dramas that some people have encountered.
All i have to do is measure it up...
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...8-IMG_1128.JPG
and for those wishing to replace their nuts with a bone one that is already slotted. This looks like the one to go for.
Courtesy of StewMac
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...8-Untitled.jpg
DB, you do realise its Pink and got tassles....Quote:
Quote from dingobass on May 9, 2013, 12:25
Not to be outdone, this is my bike. So well looked after it still looks new.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...p645-image.jpg
I spent a couple of hours sanding today, its starting to look the goods. I found a couple of issues which is unfortunate. One, was the separation of a small portion of the binding and the other was the cap being extremely thin in one section. Ive kept the sandpaper away from it.
Ive been able to sort out the neck/body join out except for a small gap which im unsure of how to fill. Its about 1.5mm across. Any ideas? Does it mean the body is holding the neck higher than it should be?
The gap under the fretboard is from the radius of the body.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...q-IMG_1133.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...z-IMG_1143.JPG
Nice Bike DB, I bet all the Pitbull forum readers will be jealous. Is it done in the new wudtone colour conch girl ?Quote:
Quote from Gavin1393 on May 9, 2013, 18:51
DB, you do realise its Pink and got tassles....Quote:
Quote from dingobass on May 9, 2013, 12:25
Not to be outdone, this is my bike. So well looked after it still looks new.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...p645-image.jpg
only problem it seems to be missing a small detail - an engine ? haha
IM SO JEALOUS IF YOU DB!!! 8-) :D :PQuote:
Quote from wokkaboy on May 10, 2013, 16:23
Nice Bike DB, I bet all the Pitbull forum readers will be jealous. Is it done in the new wudtone colour conch girl ?Quote:
Quote from Gavin1393 on May 9, 2013, 18:51
DB, you do realise its Pink and got tassles....Quote:
Quote from dingobass on May 9, 2013, 12:25
Not to be outdone, this is my bike. So well looked after it still looks new.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...p645-image.jpg
only problem it seems to be missing a small detail - an engine ? haha
Give it an engine and it will fly like a bird!!!!
These bike threads are popping up like Rick Astley!
Jobs for tomorrow.
1. Remove frets from Gavs Beatle Bass
2. Start finishing Gavs Beatle Bass in Conch Girl
Bugger! You still got those spy-cams operating in my workshop haven't you DB!!
Anyone with some tips on how i can fill that gap?
Hey Alex,
Can you take the neck out and take a photo of the rout out?
Wow! That is one clean rout out job!
Ideally you want the neck and the body of the guitar to act as one piece of resonating wood.
Me, I would be reaching for my Hide Glue which is thicker than most and also melts easily so you can start over if you stuff up. This on its own may seal that gap and maintain the resonance.
I think though, that the gap in your neck to body will not adversely affect the resonance. You'd be more concerned if that gap was affecting the intonation of the guitar. Most guitars do seem to have some tolerance to allow the wood to breathe without putting additional strain on the joints which could cause them to crack, so there is this to consider even though your guitar seems to exhibit way more tolerance than would ordinarily be necessary. In the absence of a good quality Hide glue, a wooden shim would fix the gap without altering the resonance to any discernable degree if this was at all necessary. Otherwise prepare a shim, paint it in the appropriate colours to match the colour scheme of the guitar and then decide at the end if it is necessary or not?
Thanks for the info...
Ideally, would the shim have to reach into the neck recess or can it just be a couple of mm deep to fill the gap?
The fit of the neck is pretty snug so there isnt a lot of movement when its fitted. Should the fit be pretty good for alignment? looking side on i mean..
As long as there is good solid contact with the sides the guitar will resonate well enough. You really only need to do what is aesthetically pleasing.
Im curious..it seems no amount of sanding, with all grades of paper, cannot remove what seem like scratches.
That usually happen? Are they scratches or just part of the grain?
Im planning on the first coat of Wudtone tomorrow so i would like to know if its worth spending another 4 hours on sanding.
Pedantic i know
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...2-IMG_1169.JPG
Can you maybe put an arrow in that picture to show us what direction you are sanding in???
Ive been sanding vertically mainly..seems to agree with the grain a bit better. They arent visable when a bit of moisture is added so i think ill be fine.
Hopefully ive sanded enough to get rid of the glue that was there. Water seems to soak into the timber nicely.
Looks pretty darn good to me, and I am so anal when it comes to sanding!
You will find that during the Wudtone process those fine marks will disappear.
One thing I would suggest is that you carefully steel wool the binding so it is nice and shiny before you start the Wudtone.
This will make it easier to remove the Wudtone from the binding, most of it will come off when you steel wool between coats.
When you have finished the colour coats you will have a much easier time of cleaning up the binding.
Thanks DB..it will get the steel wool treatment tomorrow.
Ive tried water to see if all the glue has gone..any other tips to check before i start Wudtoning?
Check list before sanding, before painting with Wudtone
always do a mock build to check for any repair work that needs to be done
1. Glue, especially when binding is added to the guitar or it has a cap (flamed maple, Spalty, etc)
2. Polished Spots, sections where the sanding has effectively polished the wood. wudtone wont sink in!
2b. Check for and remove filler used by factory, replace with Timbermate. Factory filler does not absorb Wudtone.
3. Polish Binding with 400 to 600 grit sandpaper/ or '0000' steel wool
4. for Basswood guitars give a rub with damp cloth and then sand the raised fluffy fibres off the body...proceed as normal thereafter
5. Read and follow instructions for your Wudtone product.
Well...after a deap breath i got the first base coat down of Dark Tease. Im a little annoyed that i missed a small scratch but its not that obvious. Im looking forward to seeing how it develops after each coat. I havent got any decent means of holding the body so ill be doing each side seperatley.
What do you guys think?
Whoops...would help if i attached the photo
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...6-IMG_1176.JPG
Looking good!
It is one of those colours that with the first few coats looks a bit wild, but as you progress it will even out and look amazing!
While im waiting for the body to dry out i thought i should start working on the neck. Its all been masked off and marked ready for fret levelling. The nut has also been removed to make it easier for levelling and also fitment of a bone nut at a later date.
Have to try and straighten the neck out first, it looks like it has a slight back bow. Hmmmmmm
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...8-IMG_1195.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...8-IMG_1196.JPG
Hardly a challenge!
The truss rods used in the Pit Bull kits are a two way type.
Righty Tighty and Lefty Loosey... then you will find that the Lefty Loosey becomes Tighty and the neck will move forward. :P
Oh this is gonna be fun...Ill need to calibrate my MK1 Eyeball i think
Yep, it is fun!
A neat trick I found by accident is to black the frets with a texta, this enables you to see the gaps between the frets and your straight edge 8-)
Already done :-) Doesnt really show up in the pics. I dont have a notched straight edge, any other alternatives?
I made my own out of an El Cheapo steel rule from Bun... Bunnnnn.... That shop I dislike so much!
Mark the fret possies with a texta and attack it with the edge of a flat file and hey presto, you have a fingerboard straight edge for less than $20 8-)
Here is a pic of the tool in question.
I put Fender and Gibson scales on this one.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...4-IMG_1646.JPG
outside the square- way to go :)
I found a way to mount the body and got a coat of Wudtone on the backside of the body. Im a little worried about the ends of the grain as it soaked up a heap of stain and now looks quite dark and patchy..hopefully with the application of more coats it will even out as said earlier.
I can't say it either DB, along with the "N" word and the "P" word.....Quote:
Quote from dingobass on May 12, 2013, 17:52
from Bun... Bunnnnn.... That shop I dislike so much!
We should have a curse system, for those 3 words, French Polish and Shellac are okay, at least they show off some grain!
And Alex, don't worry about the dark spots, the finish will fill the pores of the wood and then the finish will look a lot cleaner
Well.. it looks as thought no GOTM for me. Second coat has gone on the body. The really dark patches at the ends of the grain have not changed a bit. I must have had too much Wudtone in the cloth. The Cap looks good though.
Frets were levelled, not much needed doing. Made myself a notched straight edge using a stainless ruler which proved to be the useful, then gave them a good polish using some really fine steel wool.
Looks good if i dont look at the dark patches.
It also seems that the small scratches that should have disappeared...havent. Ahh well nothing i can do about it now.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...2-IMG_1201.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...u-IMG_1203.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...m-IMG_1198.JPG
you could try a bit of 0000 grade steal wool in between coats..Lightly... might help rid the scratches
I told you the Dark Tease would mess with your head :)
Keep at it, with the next coat try to avoid those darker areas.
It might be an idea to let it sit for two or three days to let the coats cure a bit more.
As Aj pointed out, a light steel wool between coats will help get rid of those scratches.... but to me they scream hand made!
Dark Tease is messing with me for sure! Is there a max amount of coats that should be applied? I have enough for maybe 4 coats i think.
Hand made it is...thats the way i should look at it rather than a pristine manufactured thing...
See how it travels