I agree, this is such a good tutorial I want to turn it into a video with the man himself (Gav) showing us how its done.
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I agree, this is such a good tutorial I want to turn it into a video with the man himself (Gav) showing us how its done.
Great idea. Might save many folk from requiring extensive therapy :)
I'll send you my movie agents contact number and while i am at it my therapist!
Hi Gavin, I am now in the process of preparing myself for the wiring of my 335 - and I have been closely studying your approach - one question please.... are your capacitors wired differently to the wiring video for the tone pots please??
Hi Pedro, I honestly don't know. Can you email me the diagram you are using to gavin.bramley@gmail.com and I will have a look for you. I typically do my own wiring without referring to the schematics since I tend to use Push Pull Pots to Coil-split everything!
Hey Guys, I have one tiny improvement on Gav's plastic tube method..
Try using 5mm heat shrink instead, it is more flexible and is a touch easier to use :)
Db, are you trying to steal my starring role in the as yet unmade video!!! :). :). :)
Maybe a duet? Or one talking head and another doing the actions?Quote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from Gavin1393 on June 11, 2013, 19:29
Db, are you trying to steal my starring role in the as yet unmade video!!! :). :). :)
Not at all, Gav. Just a minor tweak to your otherwise brilliant idea :)
Haha! Of course I ran downstairs to go try it out but I didnt have a piece long enough! It will certainly hold the pots in place. Did you see my post on your Riccy was my 1000th post! Clearly I talk too much!!
And after my jealous rage i'll probably get stage fright and you'll be drafted in anyways!! 8)
Yep.... too much spare time on your hands Gav :)
Don't worry, I will be at the shoot, pulling faces at you and making rude comments!
Thank goodness for hot blinding studio lights that prevent you from seeing the audience!!Quote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from dingobass on June 11, 2013, 19:51
Yep.... too much spare time on your hands Gav :)
Don't worry, I will be at the shoot, pulling faces at you and making rude comments!
....I am despondant....I think my ambition has outstripped my competence....firstly I used BMW and with care and patience it has turned out ok but not as delightful as my Camine Gypsy LP....however it will look great (from a distance) with the gold furniture and the highlights and the aged vintage yellow neck -gold on black looks great. I have now had a test run through of the installation using the potential hit movie Gav's 5mm tubing innovation...I found that I would need fishing line for the switch and the amp plug (maybe have a look at DB's upgrade).....however now I am in trouble the wiring is fine all joints are tested and ok - however the bridge pickup is fine but I have no idea what is the problem with the neck pickup - been through line by line and solder by solder .....nothing....I shall leave it tonight and review everything tomorrow....damn it .....thanks for listening ....a large glass of vino collapso awaits......Pedro
The 5mm tubing fits INSIDE the output jack.......the switch you should be able to get into position with your fingers.
You may have a 'dry joint' with the solder? Might also be the switch......check these. Dont worry, you are not alone! I rook several hours to get mine right and so did DB....
yes I put the tubing inside - but obviously not far enough as it popped out half way through retreaving it....thanks for the advice on the solder - (dumb question alert....)what is the best solution, disassemble the lot and redo the soldering or just add additional solder to the joints - how would I test the switch?
Pedro, I feel for you... I still have nightmares of the 335 I built..
If you have a multimeter you can check the switch easily by putting red on the pup in and black on the signal to jack out.
If you don't have a meter, swap the connections and see what happens.
If the same problem occurs you have a dud switch.
If this is the case, email me at dingobass@pitbullguitars.com and I will send you a replacement.
Pedro, you have to be very careful soldering these switches...great switches will set you back $20 plus. When you solder any electronics there is always a danger of overheating and burningout some part. With capacitors and resistors they (the experts) will tell you to use a clip between the area you are soldering and the film/etc. this is difficult to do with a switch so you have to get it right first time. The moment you try and resolder a wire with the less expensive switches you are asking for trouble!
Thanks guys - off to the footy today, tomorrow will be re-energised and full of confidence......haha ( and I thought I had it all sussed)
No worries, hard to believe I know, but DB was once a novice too! Ah! Ok, and simply to make DB feel better I may have been too! :p
Hi Gav and DB, so I switched the connections to the three way switch and the same pickup (bridge) worked and the neck pickup was dead - so i am assuming that the switch may have been damaged in the soldering but the overall wiring is ok?
Sounds like that to me.....
Hang on... Wired to switch mk1, neck dead.
swap wires, neck still dead?
Not the switch... Either a dud solder join or pickup.
1. Make sure you have the pup HOT wire (inner insulated one) soldered to the correct lug on the pot
2. Make sure the earth wire is soldered to the back of the same pot.
3. Check that you have an earth jumper from the back of each pot connecting all the pots in series.
4. Have a large glass of Vino
5. if all the above are correct, we have a problem....
6. refer to 4.
7. Test the neck pup is alive by swapping it's wiring with the bridge pup,(at potentiometer) if still dead it is the pup.
8. Refer to 4.
9. Email me at dingobass@pitbullguitars.com and I will send you out a replacement pup.
My bad, I missed that it was the same Pickup that wasn't working after you changed the switch connections. DB would be correct, especially about point 4.
Guys,
....I have just rechecked 1. and 2. and found one, uno (1) stray wire from the earth wire soldered to the hot wire, problem solvered. Cheers DB !! - my day is made now back to point 4......hooray.
Pedro
Alls well that ends well in the happy little community of PBG land!
Thanks DB, just one (more) thing....can I now leave the three way switch configured with alternate wiring or should I re-do (personally I dont see any reason to change it back?)
Glad you got it sorted Pedro.
No need to swap the wires back, just spin the switch so it works the right way round :)
Thanks all....finished and it looks great - although I have noticed that after tuning the neck is starting to detach from the body - I guess this is not normal, used recommended wood glue and kept it clamped for 24 hours - but apart from pulling it apart again is there any remedial work I can do?
Doesn't sound right - what sort of glue did you use? Potentially dumb question - how old was it?
Hi Brendan - it was Aquadhere PVA probably around 12 months....Pete
My first guitar with a glue in neck - there didnt appear to be a great deal of contact - I must say that I feel more comfortable with screw in necks of the LP1 and the Tele (look alike)....Pete
Oh dear.. there is your problem, or should I say both your problems...Quote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from pedro on June 22, 2013, 16:08
Hi Brendan - it was Aquadhere PVA probably around 12 months....Pete
Selleys PVA is crap. It just aint strong enough and it does deteriorate with age...
Dude, sorry, but rip the neck off, well, remove it and I will send you the glue for this job.
To remove the neck, get an el cheapo spatula and heat it up until it turns blue.
Work it down the join to break the bond (whats left of it)
Once you have the neck out, sand the crap- sorry- glue off with 80 grit paper.
When it is all off you will be able to re glue the neck.
Yep - what DB said - I've had Aquadhere that was no longer white - had broken down that much - wouldn't hold two pieces of paper together... DB's glue will be heaps better - if you can't wait - I've heard good things about Titebond or DB has talked about hide glue... Otherwise - wait for a little package in the mail... I know it's a pain, but it's better to get this out of the way now before it turns tragic.
Adam - the instructional video for set necks does have using Aquadhere. Given that it can cause issues and you guys supply a better glue, is it worthwhile taking down the video until there's a chance to record something using the better glue?
Good point Brendan... the PVA vid must go!
What is the glue that DB has been sending us???? *crosses fingers and hopes that Titebond smells like mayo*
I heard the stuff he sent you was flour and water...Quote:
Quote from keloooe on June 22, 2013, 18:49
What is the glue that DB has been sending us???? *crosses fingers and hopes that Titebond smells like mayo*
I expect the glue that DB is sending you will be Titebond.
To add to DB's post, how I remove a neck is to use a steam iron, wet cloth and metal spatula. Heat up the area where the neck joins to the body using both steam and alternatively pressing the iron onto the cloth after placing the cloth on the neck. After doing this for a few minutes you should be able to push the spatula into the area where the neck is separating and simply remove the neck. If you find the neck doesnt want to come away from the body keep steaming it and it should come away. This method should cause minimal damage and is also the recommended method for separating a glued on bridge or neck on an acoustic...and this method will work even though the neck is NOT coming away from the body!
great stuff - thanks guys (I thought it was me.....and the curse of the E335....!!)at least this guitar has taught me the value of patience...haha.
Pete
It does that for sure.....lost mine a few times with this build!Quote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from pedro on June 24, 2013, 14:50
great stuff - thanks guys (I thought it was me.....and the curse of the E335....!!)at least this guitar has taught me the value of patience...haha.
Pete
...steam iron, wet cloth and spatula worked very well.Cheers.