Ig0r is going out of his tiny little minds watching this…
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Ig0r is going out of his tiny little minds watching this…
Ka pow! [emoji108][emoji106]
Very nice!
I mean, while I'm here, I may as well, right?
https://i.imgur.com/dc7o17T.jpeg
Walnut/Ash/Walnut. Ice cream sandwich. Eskimo pie. Etc.
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Given what you are up to with these, I will need to suspend Ig0r's internet privileges. Does anyone know if the Forum have a child lock setting?
Now you are just teasing us!
With chamfered edges front and back that would look fantastic
Yep, the walnut is 10mm thick, so I'll be able to go deep on the chamfer. The tiger maple one is only 5mm thick, so the chamfer is not as pronounced.
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Could there be a clash of cultures here? Walnut will give it a high-end furniture look, but the shape rather says says full-out metal.
I know it's probably past this point, but I imagined a thinner walnut cap that you could engrave a design into, revealing the ash layer.
Same a idea as a 2-ply engraved truss rod cover.
And a couple of small candelabra...
I've probably got enough clamps now.
https://i.imgur.com/vpEfRcE.jpeg
Just kidding. You can never have enough clamps.
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Did someone say clamps?
https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...720&fit=bounds
I'm feeling somewhat inadequate now. No pressure though, huh [emoji1787]
Enough clamps there to sink a ship!
My axetec order finally arrived! (after being struck in a depot for 4 weeks)
https://i.imgur.com/57HICB5.jpeg
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I think they're the main outlet for Iron Gear.
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A UK store, so not surprising they aren't that well known in Australia, but yes, all Iron Gear pickups are currently sold through them.
http://www.axetec.co.uk/
I use them quite a lot. Their Schaller-compatible strap lock buttons are particularly useful if you already have enough straps and just need the buttons.
They look identical to the ones I've used from NorthWest Guitars. I've had to sand the tops of the locking pins down on mine, as they had sharp machining edges left on which were cutting into the strings, but were fine and smooth in operation after that. By unscrewing the knurled locking button you have access to the gears for easy greasing, and you can tighter the flat gear up so that it is firmly screwed onto the tuner post, with no play at all (something that's hard to do on standard tuners).
The only downside (and one that should be fixed at the factory) is that the post hole (at 23mm) is a couple of mm too tall for most flat Fender-style 6-in-line headstocks.
Most tuner holes are about 21mm from the flat base of the tuner, and with a standard tuner, the strings wind down the post so leave at a lower height and give a good break angle at the nut (1st and 2nd strings always excepted). With a 23mm high post hole, the low E and A strings run almost horizontally to the nut with insufficient break angle, and you'll definitely need string trees for the D and G strings.
I first used them on my EX-1, which had an angled headstock, and they were fine on that. But then I tried them on my GST-1 build and found that I didn't have sufficient string break angle over the nut, so had to get some Gotoh 510 staggered locking tuners instead for those.
At 21mm for the low E, A and D posts, the Gotoh's hole is only 2mm lower, but it's enough, especially for those tuners positioned closest to the nut. The G, B and E posts are 19mm, not quite low enough to get away without a B and E string tree, but it lowered the friction on the one fitted.
With a thick headstock, or one with a bigger distance between the bottom of the nut slot (don't go by the height of an uncut nut) and the top of the headstock, you might get away with using them, but they are really best used on angled headstocks.
I'm measuring 21mm to the bottom of the hole, 23mm to the top. A quick eyeball from the bottom of the low E slot looks OK to me on an F-style headstock, and so do the others (though I'll have string trees on hand anyway). The very top of the tuner post sits parallel with the fretboard. So looking pretty healthy.
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The locking pin will push the string to the top of the hole, but then it will tend to centre in the groove, so around the 22mm mark.
All that matters is that there's enough break angle for you, which is happily the case here.
However this will vary from neck to neck, and some necks they won't work on. Just bear it in mind if you think of using them on a future build with a Fender-style headstock, and measure the distance from the rear of the headstock distance to the bottom of the nut slot before ordering.
I do wish they'd made them 2mm lower, as they would be pretty much suitable for any guitar then!
Routing and correcting for earlier measurement error. More work to go, but happy with that.
https://i.imgur.com/jUhf2se.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/F6ZuVa6.jpeg
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Pocket, cavities, and chamfer.
https://i.imgur.com/l2Nii1k.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/RHRag4C.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/YPCx3ov.jpg
Not sure what I'm doing with the neck heel yet. Also, thinking about a slight tint to darken the walnut up a bit.
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Looking good Dozy.
The routings look very slick.
Thanks mate. I really didn't want to stuff it up, so lots of measuring and remeasuring and double checking everything.
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You seem to have lost the flame with the staining, which is a pity. At least it's not showing up in the photos.
It's just the angle and lighting of the photos. I haven't stained anything yet, and won't do until I've finished all the cavities and routings across four projects. I've still got control cavities, outputs, and wire channels to go.
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Control cavities done.
https://i.imgur.com/17YU7u7.jpg
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Kapow! TBH I never really appreciated these style/shape of v. But now that I'm seeing these come together, it's legit changing my mindset. I really like what your doing with these, bro. Much drooling happening over here [emoji28]
Thank mate. It was also never really in my "must have" list, but I'm glad you're feeling what I'm feeling :)
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Not a must have for me either but you’re doing a tasteful job of it Dozy and showing off some good workmanship.