Great headstock shape, 👍
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Great headstock shape, 👍
Thanks mate, was definitely not according to the plan but glad it came out ok and in one piece!Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyxlh
Hi All,
Just an update, so been adding the layers of truoil on the neck and I’m pretty happy with the result. As for the body, have now stained it a few more times and the front seems good, but the back and sides have some whitish patches, tried to add more stain in those areas but doesn’t seem to make a difference. I’m ok with it. Been letting the body dry for about a few days between re-coats. May add one more coat as I have a bit of the dingotone stain left.
Just a question, for the final coat on the body, I have enough truoil to put on the body and also have the final coat from dingotone. In your experience is the dingotone final coat enough or do you add another layer of true oil over it? Just been reading some other posts about truoil over dingotone, but wanted to get some opinions,
Thanks all
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Looking good!
The body is looking great.
"Just a question, for the final coat on the body, I have enough truoil to put on the body and also have the final coat from dingotone. In your experience is the dingotone final coat enough or do you add another layer of true oil over it? Just been reading some other posts about truoil over dingotone, but wanted to get some opinions,"
Dingotone final coat should be enough! When I used it for my FVB-4 the first coat took a number of weeks to cure (but it was the middle of winter in Perth). So after the one coat I then applied lots of coats of tru-oil.
Hey Trevor, thanks…did you mean, just apply 1 coat of dingotone final coat, and once cured add truoil?Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor Davies
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No sorry. If you are using Dingotone final coats, use it as per the instructions (ie 2 or 3 thin coats). If you are not happy with look after that then consider adding some coats of tru-oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by vivek_rc
I only added 1 coat as it was taking way longer than 24 hours to cure!
Cool, thanks Trevor. Will do that and see how the final coat looks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor Davies
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Hi All,
Just an update, I’ve applied nearly 10 coats of truoil on the body, have left it to cure for some time in a warm area.
Truoil does have a nice finish, takes time and patience, has to sand and reapply a few times as was getting some uneven areas. But I think finally it’s come out pretty good. Will leave it to cure for another week, Next for the finish will to wipe it with some polish and then a final buff
Also got my pickguard with a humbucker cutout in the neck position. Will also start the measure and install the bridge on the weekend.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...be3a61c9a4.jpg
Nice work. The guard fits the neck very well. Did it come like that, or did you have to work on it?
I bought this pickguard from eBay. Actually it doesn’t fit very well, the humbucker cutout on the guard isn’t aligned with the pickup route, I need to sand down the top of the guard where it meets the neck, so that the humbucker will mount flat. have a black guard that’s on the way which I will be using for this guitar, so will work on that when it arrives.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I suppose that whilst the single coil neck position on a Tele is pretty standard, there is no real standard for neck humbucker positions on them, and the rout position may vary slightly depending on whether it's a 21 or 22 fret neck that the guitar is supposed to have.
Hi All,
Back at it again, left the body and neck to cure after truoil and happy with the outcome.
I’ve mounted the bridge, and happy with the alignment of the high and low e-strings on the fretboard.
Next I want to screw in the neck, but before I did it, want to get some advice. So how I’ve measured the points to drill on the back of the neck is by putting in a nail to indent the drill points on the back of the neck. Measured again with a caliper and the points seem ok. Any second opinions on a more precise way?
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Your basic principle for transferring is good, however, in pic #1 the neck heel looks to be a bit skew-whiff with the neck pocket.
Did you have the neck clamped when you punched the nail?
Also, I'd be concerned about the difference in diameter of the hole vs. the nail. Looks like it would be easy to get the nail accidentally off-centre. This is why I have a set of graduated (diameter) transfer punches. That said, I'm ridiculously pedantic about these things :o.
If you haven't already, be sure the neck screws are able to pass through the body holes with very little to no resistance. ie: you have to turn the screws to get them through the body. You only want the screws to be gripping the hole in the neck heel. This will make for a much tighter mating of heel face and pocket floor.
Hi Vivek,
You could try pushing the screws through the body holes to mark the neck. I have been told to ensure the body holes are just large enough to allow the screws through without having to be screwed through the body (so that the screws only pull the neck back onto the body).
I'm not normally very careful and just drill though the body holes into the neck when it is in place. Maybe I need to take more care!!
Hi Mcreed, TrevorQuote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Thanks for the advice and guidance. These are the 4 screws I got in the kit and they definitely don’t slot into the holes easily unless I drive them in with a screwdriver, should I get smaller wood screws?
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Also Mcreed, the photo with the neck at a slight angle was just for the photo, I ensured the neck was aligned before marking the spots with the nail [emoji3]
No. The screws are fine, but I'd drill the holes out as Trevor says to the width of the screws and use them to mark the neck screw hole positions.
When you want two bits of wood to be held together tightly, it is good 'quality woodworking' practice to not have the screws biting into the piece the screws are passing through, just into the piece they pass into. If you screw through both bits, it is possible for the screw to reach its full travel into the first bit of wood before it's turned enough to pull the second bit of wood hard against it. If the screw can turn freely in the first bit of wood, then this can't occur. If you are knocking together say a basic studwork frame from softwood this is less important, as the screw will simply pull into the softwood until the two pieces are tight. But on the guitar you have a metal neck plate to stop the screws pulling into the wood and to help spread the load, so this won't happen.
It's generally best to use a clamp to secure the neck to the body when marking out the screw hole positions. This allows you to get the neck alignment within the pocket correct first, so the hole markings then end up in the right position.
Hi Simon
Thank you for the detailed explanation, I understand now and what I have to do, will work on the neck this week and report on progress, thanks again for all the help !!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Yep, what Simon said.
I'll just add that when you enlarge the the holes in the body, do two things:
1) drill from the back side (finished side) of the body
2) presuming you have a variable speed drill with forward and reverse, SLOWLY and lightly run the drill bit in reverse at the top of the hole.
Running the drill in reverse will minimise the risk of tear-out or finish chipping. You'll probably only need to go about .5mm larger than the holes are already, but it can be enough to bugger up the hard work you've put into your finish.
Oh, if you don't have a variable speed drill with forward and reverse (and you don't happen to have a tapered reamer) you can twist the drill bit with your fingers to achieve the same thing. Just remember to twist anti-clockwise.
Thanks Mcreed, I got a good cordless drill, and will follow the steps!Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Thanks guys for the advice, really appreciated!
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Hi Guys
Just documenting my neck install,
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Need a little bit more finer adjustments. Just doing this step to see how the neck lines up and get a rough idea of alignment.
With the neck seeming to be centered along the string as a guide, the neck doesn’t sit flush against the side of the neck pocket in the picture below. So my assumption is it’s better to align the neck based on how centered it is from the mid point of the nut and bridge? Is this correct?
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Have yet to drill the neck holes in the body will do that next.
You want to align the neck with the two E strings in place and in their respective slots on the saddle and nut. Then you can see the relationship between the two strings and the edges of the fretboard.
The dot inlays are not always a good indicator of the precise centre of the fretboard.
As for gap on the side of the pocket, it more aesthetics than performance. the mating of the bottom of the heel and pocket is far more important. In fact at least some gap is needed with bolt-on necks in order to allow for adjustment to align them. Contrary to popular belief, tighter is not better in this scenario. Set necks are a slightly different approach, but
you still don't want the joint so tight that it requires force to get it in.
Thanks MCreed, have done as advised and I’m getting a bit more confident.
It looks good, will widen the holes at the back and bolt the neck in
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Yes, that's the way.
However, the high E string is a lot further away from the edge of the fretboard than the low E. (unless it's just camera angle???)
If you move the headstock downward (in the direction of the high E) it will decrease the margin there and simultaneously increase the margin on the low E side. You want the centre of the E strings to be equidistant from the edge of the fretboard. (I'd go at the 21st fret)
You want that neck alignment position sorted before you punch your holes in the heel. That's why it's recommended to clamp the neck into the pocket when align and marking.
I think it's the camera angle.
Yes it’s the camera angle, the two E string are about the same distance from the respective edges…pretty even….will clap down the neck before marking the spots…thanks again
Hi Guys
So finally got the neck mounted, it’s not perfectly square but https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...aeeadcb8df.jpg
happy with the result, will now need to do the wiring and mount pick guard and string up the guitar
Getting close to the finish line now!
Hi Guys
Long delay between updates, but finally put the guitar together, all wired up and luckily electronics all work first time around. Got a 5way selector and can coil split the neck. Will put on the rest of strings and string tress. Have to read up on how to setup the guitar and intonate it. Thanks again for all the advice and support
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Looking good. The black pickguard does go well (but so did the white one!). I had the same colour selection issue with my build TLA-1 build.
Hi All,
My first build is done, happy with the end result. Still needs a proper setup which I am still figuring out the technique but will get there. Thanks again to everyone for their support and guidance.
I’ve ordered my next PB kit which is a PSH-1!
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Looks great!. Once you've got the PSH-1 built, you can take the low E string off and tune it to open G for playing all those Stones riffs.
Congratulations on completing your first build!
There's plenty of help available here to get you through the set up process too. Just ask!
And I just noticed the compensated saddle bridge (I think). That's a very worthwhile upgrade on a tele IMO.
You can intonate a vintage style saddle one, but there are tricks to getting it right!