I second the comfort contours. I have them on 2 of my 3 teles and I really like how they feel. Especially when playing sat down.
I contoured my ash tele (a PBG TL-1) both for comfort and weight relief.
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I second the comfort contours. I have them on 2 of my 3 teles and I really like how they feel. Especially when playing sat down.
I contoured my ash tele (a PBG TL-1) both for comfort and weight relief.
Alright, I don't hear any objections so I'm doing it!
Remember the old rule: If you don't post pics, it didn't happen!Quote:
Originally Posted by ross.pearson
Facts ^Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
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My kingdom for a shinto rasp
Worthy investment. Timbecon have them, and I know there is a guy on marketplace around Applecross that sells them.
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Alright.
Step 1. Be super aggressive with your size and location so you can make sure you inlude that terrible blowout you fixed really poorly when routing the body.
Attachment 41144
Step 2. Start by using a pissy little spoon gouge, then a crappy bowl gouge, then try some cheap BGS rasps, then just get the largest chisel and hammer you have and go absolutely ham bevel down. Finish shaping crudely with rasps to ensure you'll be hand sanding for the rest of your life.
Attachment 41145
Step 3, 4, 5. Sand.
Attachment 41146
Attachment 41147
Attachment 41148
I've done the black "wash" over the blue. In reality, the black acrylic KraftenPaent reactivated the blue and essentially replaced it on contact. It took several, several, many, many tries and retries rubbing back, adding blue, adding black, adding blue, spotting mistakes, making them worse, etc ad nauseam before settling on something that looks amazing and photographs terribly.
Attachment 41149
It's a blue/grey finish that I think will look really really nice so long as the wipe on poly doesn't destroy it. I might buy some spray laquer actually.
I really need to start testing on cut-offs.
I've mentioned this in other threads, but I'm a 4" angle grinder and and an 80 grit flap-disc guy. Knocks it out in about 2 minutes!Quote:
Step 2. Start by using a pissy little spoon gouge, then a crappy bowl gouge, then try some cheap BGS rasps, then just get the largest chisel and hammer you have and go absolutely ham bevel down.
I see you didn't go for the forearm contour on the front. Not a fan?
edit: Contours on the back came out nice though. Nice transition.
Oh, I have many grinders, and many flappy bits (discs included). But I'm currently living with an old German guy who is ridiculously vocal about "dust" in his shed, so I have to keep my footprint minimal.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
I was considering the forearm contour, but had already started painting the front so figured I'd let it go. After the giant headache that is working with KraftenPaent I should have just gone for it. Maybe that will be a job for next weekend. It's been completely bloody miserable here for weeks, hard to get motivated and moving.
Thanks for the props re: transition! I tried really hard to make it look as organic as possible, smoothing the transitions so there are no hard facets. It actually makes it hard to take photos of because you can't tell from the images what is a contour and what isn't.
EDIT: Considering how anal the old guy is about dust, you'd think he'd at least have his tools stored instead of just f*cking laying about everywhere. I do almost all my work on a corner of his table saw because literally every surface in this 8x9m shed is covered in crap. Can't wait to get out of here.
In-laws & outlaws...
The old saying about "you don't just marry your wife, you marry the whole family" comes to mind!
eh I'm just whingeing. Lots of people in worse situations.
Too true (it doesn't to vent a little bit once in a while though).Quote:
Originally Posted by ross.pearson
Guess who is carving a forearm contour with a $20 bunnings block plane and sandpaper.
Well you shouldn't have to worry about going too hard too fast with that method!Quote:
Originally Posted by ross.pearson
My angle grinder makes short work of it, but it can be very unforgiving. If something goes wrong, it goes wrong very quickly! :o
First I had to sharpen the stupid thing. When I bought it I didn't own any other planes or good sharpening equipment, just some terrible floppy little diamond sharpening "plates". I had to resurface the entire sole and grind a whole new bevel in the iron. The body is so light it's actually awkward to use. Setting it is also a pain, the cap is either all on or all off, there's no in-between for incremental movements. I should have spent time sorting out the #3 instead..
If anything, it's proof that even the cheapest tools will do the job.
Attachment 41173
Again, sans any real research and going completely by gut, I went ahead and marked something out that is absolute overkill. I checked out the forearm cut on a couple of my strat style guitars when I was done and they look positively petite compared to the chonk I removed. I'm hoping the bridge won't be effected, but I'm sure I avoided that area.
Attachment 41174
Trying to plane with the grain caused this thing to just dig in and chatter. Cutting 45 degrees across the grain provided the smoothest cut. If I had better depth control I wouldn't have even needed to sand this section, it was glassy smooth.
Attachment 41175
Here's the pile of shavings from when I finished.
Attachment 41176
Caesar literally just sat there and let the shavings fall on his head while I was working.
Attachment 41177
After the bulk was removed it was time to start refining the transitions. I used the block plane to remove the bulk of the roundover, real quick and dirty like.
Attachment 41178
Then it was outside for some fresh air to do the hand sanding. Trying to make the transitions as organic as possible with no hard lines.
Attachment 41179
I took it up to 240 grit, and really tried to make the shoulder where the countour meets the face of the guitar as unobtrusive as possible. I ended up sanding a lot of the paint (eventually all) because I was going to have to repaint anyway. For like the 8th time.
Attachment 41180
Top down view
Attachment 41181
And the side view showing the absolute chonk. Hey, this isn't meant to be a replica, so I don't mind if things aren't "right".
Attachment 41182
Before repainting I wiped down with metho, hand sanded the raised grain, second metho wipe down, more hand sanding, and then thought I was ready to go. I was not.
This time, mixing things up and going for consistency, I laid down a base coat of black water based acrylic (all wiped on). Then streaked on lines of the blue paint that will mix in to create the blue/grey colour I'm after.
Attachment 41183
By rubbing back hard and not allowing any surfaces time to dry, I got something I really like and that is finally pretty consistent.
Unfortunately, the forearm contour grain raised right up again and it was impossible to get a colour consistent with the front.
Attachment 41184
I sanded back to 240. More metho. More sanding. Up to 400 this time. Multiple times, multiple directions, until the grain stopped raising anywhere on the body. This also allowed me to spot some dings and scratches that I had completely missed and take care of them. In the end the body is super smooth but still has black acrylic highlighting the grain.
Attachment 41185
I watered down the blue paint 50/50 and brushed it on this time. I got a consistent result but it's kind of meh. I may do another coat later. Maybe less watered down, and then add a green blue. Welcome to the idiot lab, all we do is experiments.
Attachment 41186
The sides and back will be black, but I'll still likely need to attend to some of the edge transitions.
Attachment 41187
After that I went and had a shower because I feel like crap. Turns out I've got a 38.5 degree temperature, so that thing the kids picked up at school has decided it wants a piece of me. Woot. At least I achieved something today.
I'm vaccilating between "this is almost like I'm a real woodworker" and "why am I doing this to myself??". I think next time will be angle grinder time just so I can get that experience under my belt.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
It’s a bit larger and deeper than a factory bevel, but it looks fine to me. There are no rules, and if there were, they can always be broken.
I just go at mine with a belt sander until I’m happy, then a random orbital sander, then hand sand until complete.
Cheers! Yeah I think it's gonna be okay. Definitely comfortable and needed the weight loss (don't we all).Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I'm trying to keep dust down due to my living situation. I probably could have run a cable out to a distant corner of the property and set myself up, but it seemed like less effort to do it this way. It definitely wasn't less effort. Kind of fun though, I really enjoy making shavings.
I've painted this body so many times now I'm not even gonna talk about it any more. If you see the body look slightly different in future pictures just assume I've been at it again.
Attachment 41201
I've decided since I'm apparently terrible at planning my work before I start, but great at biting off more than I can chew, that I should do my first ever inlay. I'm considering using jarrah as it will provide a really good contrast, and jarrah wood filler will be a good way to hide the inevitable sins.
I'm planning to give this guitar to my best friend for his wedding or as my Best Man gift to him at his bucks. It depends on when(if) I ever finish it. His name is Mark, and this is my first build, so this will be the Mark I.
Attachment 41202
On top of that, continuing this apparent anti-powertool bias I have, I'm going to attempt it by hand. I thought I might be able to make some inroads with scalpels and needle files, but that's lunacy. They will definitely come into play for final shaping and finessing though.
Attachment 41203
The missus is heading down to the big smoke today and I was hoping she could stop past toolmart to grab a fret saw and some blades, but they don't have any in stock. I'll likely stop past Carbatec on my way to work Monday and grab one. Until then any inlay work is on hold. Gives me time to make an inlay work stand/frame anyway.
In other news, my Homeland fret rocker turned up in the post. Unfortunately it lives up to its name and literally rocks on a flat surface. I tested out on my LP that has some string buzz and was like "Damn, I got some BAD upper frets". But it turns out the smallest straight edge on the fret rocker has a slight curve and rocks on literally everything. I'll attempt to fix it using my leveling beam, but yeah. I hate that you can't trust anything you buy these days.
I blacked up the edge of the fret rocker with a sharpie and took it to the waterstones.
Attachment 41209
Engineered flat me arse.
A couple of minutes later and it's flat enough that it's no longer rocking against a straight edge. Still not perfect, but it's definitely good enough.
Attachment 41210
I did the same for the other edges, even though they didn't seem to be problematic, aaaand I'm super glad I did.
Attachment 41211
And since I was out here flattening things, I decided to grab the cheap crappy "luthier" files I bought off amazon and turn them into something resembling actual crowning files. I flattened one side completely on the bench grinders. Firstly on a regular stone, then over to a tool sharpening stone to help smooth the surface. I took it back to the sharpening stone after this photo to clean it up some more, then ran it over the waterstones.
Attachment 41212
And I rounded each corner slightly to make them safe.
Attachment 41213
I did this on the bastard file first, as I've got plenty of spare cheap ones of those. Now I've got a better idea of the process I'll do the single cut file when I can find the time.
They're not perfect, but they should work just fine.
As you might be able to tell, I don't like to do things the easy way.
For cutting out inlay you really want a jeweller's saw, which is a much finer version of a fret saw. It will allow you to cut out a lot more of the shape than a fret saw will, before turning to files and sanding. As the teeth are smaller as well, it's a bit kinder to thin fragile inlay material. Might need to be an internet order though.
Cheers for the advice. I've gone ahead and placed an order online from a local supplier for a jewelers saw and about 140 blades, because I know I'm gonna be breaking the hell out of those things.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Hopefully I'll get it by the weekend!
I just painted the back and sides of the body and somehow managed to get black paint on the front, ruining it again. I've chosen the worst possible product and application method.
But I wouldn't be me if I didn't
Have you tried turning yourself off and on again?
Several times. Tonight's method is Taylors special release shiraz.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I've discovered that if you search for perfection, all you find is problems. If you search for adequate, all you find is still problems. However, if you get sick enough of something you eventually just say "screw it" and and start applying finish.
The direction I've gone with would probably be considered shabby chic, or weathered beach house. Or flotsam, perhaps.
Anyway, more paint, more sanding, more mineral spirits, more sanding, more problems uncovered, more serious sanding, more paint, more mineral spirits, more sanding. And then say "I can't get it better than this without going insane" and start applying wipe on poly.
Attachment 41228
I'm thinking 2 coats a day for a couple of days, then light sanding, then 2 coats a day for a couple more days, then leave it to cure for a few weeks before wet sanding, buffing, and polishing.
Or I'll just do a bunch of coats and then steel wool it and say good enough.
We'll see where the muse takes me.
EDIT: I should mention that self-deprecation aside, I've gotten pretty much the result I had in mind when I started. I want this guitar to look weathered and worn.
I quite like the look you’ve achieved, and my name is, “Mark”. Just saying 🤷
Hi Mark! Your username infers the existance of a nemesis, LightMark. I'm glad you like it! With the amount of effort I feel like I've put in, it reminds me of my favourite Dolly Parton quote:Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
I'm fairly happy with it but there are some issues that no amount of sanding seems to have resolved. At the end of the day it's fine and kinda fits the theme, but next guitar will definitely be better. I really just want to finish already, but I know there's loads of work left to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by DollyParton
Second and final coat of poly for today complete! I ended up light sanding with 400 grit before applying. Instructions suggested 240 grit between coats, but it didn't feel entirely necessary. I'll probably just keep building up more coats until the weekend, then figure it out from there.
It photographs way better at night.
Attachment 41233
And some booty shots
Attachment 41234
Attachment 41235
Attachment 41236
Two more wipe on poly coats today for a total of 5, and may get a third in later tonight. I'm trying to only put on light coats, and looking at likely having to do around 20 or so coats, which might be excessive.. I'll likely take it by feel, but I want to build it up a bit and the end grain is still being quite thirsty. I think it's going okay.
20 is not excessive at all. When I have used wipe-on poly, my minimum is 24, and I have generally gone 24-28. Many here and other places will go up to 50. I have used the same amount with Tru Oil also.Quote:
Two more wipe on poly coats today for a total of 5, and may get a third in later tonight. I'm trying to only put on light coats, and looking at likely having to do around 20 or so coats, which might be excessive.
I try to keep a running tally of my coats on paper but sometimes forget to right it down, so I go with a "when in doubt, do another coat" philosophy. This assures me of my minimum but likely puts me over. Which is not a bad thing IMO.
What wipe-on are you using? Did you mix your own?
I’d second that 20 is not excessive, especially as you say you are doing thin coats.
Fantastic, good to know! I'll go for 2 coats a day for two weeks then, that will get me up to around 28 and should do the trick with wriggle room.
I'm using Feast Watson satin wipe on poly, as I had a tin left over from refinishing our dining table. I only did ~6 coats on that put was pouring it on. Definitely not fine woodworking but had to get done quick as we were setting up our house for sale.
I wouldn't have used satin if I didn't already have it, I would have prefered to mix my own and go for a gloss, but this build is more about learning the fundamentals and skilling up rather than going for perfection.
So I'm light sanding every couple of coats, but I'm not sure how to "finish" this finish. Once I've put down the last layer of poly, should I wait 3-4 weeks for it to cure fully before sanding with higher grits and then polishing/buffing? Being satin I'm not going to get a high gloss, but would still like to get a good result.
The neck is on hold until I can complete (or ruin) the headstock with an inlay, but then I'll likely be finishing that the same way. Obviously I don't want to build up areas that contact the neck pocket so I'm trying to figure out my best approach for that. Mask off those areas on the neck? Or attach the neck to the guitar for the whole process and mask off the body?
You’d normally mask off the pocket, leaving just a small strip exposed (~1mm) around edge so the finish just goes over the corners. You’ll probably have to do some light sanding back on the resulting small ridge, but it really helps the finish to grip. If you mask off right to the edge, the end of the finish then becomes exposed and is far more liable to chip when fitting or removing the neck.
Cheers! Unfortunately I've done my regular trick of not explaining my problem well enough though =(Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
To rephrase: When I'm finishing my neck, do I want to apply finish to the heel and sides where it will meet the body. I'm thinking no, as this will make the neck thicker and taller and no longer able to fit into the pocket. What is the usual method for this?
Cheers!
It was early when I read your post and I misread it. Yes you do put finish the whole of the heel of the neck. Just look at any manufactured bolt-on neck and you'll see that they've done that. Which is why you don't want a super-tight neck fit when everything is bare wood. It should be snug, but not so you need to squeeze it in to place.
You can of course sand the finish down a bit more on the sides in the heel area if it is very tight, and also sand the sides of the pocket now before too much finish goes on if you foresee issues.
Brilliant. You're a fantastic resource and an absolute scholar Simon. Thanks for putting up with me =)
Welp, my jewelers saw arrived, and I bought a cheap coping saw as well. That came in hand for roughing things out and removing excess waste.
I made a simple bench pin from an old cupboard door that was sitting around. Just a fostner bit and a handsaw, I should have made the mouth of the hole narrower, but I can easily knock together another one. It worked great, just clamped to a painters horse. I did modify it to narrow it a significant amount on one side after this photo though.
Attachment 41264
I'd sanded the jarrah down to about ~2mm thick, and even then it had a tendency to basically shatter randomly.
Attachment 41265
A bit of CA glue to set it up and then flood the cracked areas and it should be all good. I'm going to try and sand these to be a bit thinner on some plate glass, I'll see how that goes. I used fret slotting files to clean up inside the a and k, that seemed to work, but things are still a little wonky. Eh, first time, so I'm relatively happy with how it went.
Attachment 41266
I've got a plan for transfering the shape to the headstock. I'll be carving by hand with scalpels, so I'll "masking tape and ca glue" the pieces in the correct locations, and then mark them out very carefully with a scalpel. That should give me a pretty decent guide for where to carve out.
That's looking pretty tidy Ross.