Fake news! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
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Fake news! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Hahaha!Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
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roflol! 👍🏾👏🏾Quote:
Originally Posted by simon barden
Pretty happy with that.
https://i.imgur.com/PBICdjY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UwFgsOV.jpg
Little bit more neck pocket finessing required, but the sawdust and titebond slurry seems to have done the job.
I'll be making my own neck pocket templates as well from here on in. Unless I'm buying fender necks, there's really not much point using a bought template for that purpose.
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Looking good.
I couldn't make out the damage in the first pix, but glad you recovered in the end. Looking good though.
I'll have to have a closer look at Trevor's threads about making templates as I was considering acrylic ones in the future.
Do you have a link to his specific instructions?
I've just acquired some follow bits and round-over bits, so I see some routing coming in my future.
Also, I'm pretty sure FrankenWashie was put here on this earth to make us all feel better about overextending ourselves with project numbers. However he simultaneously makes us jealous :o.
I myself have been very very slack lately, but that... ahem... may or may not change later this week. More to come in another thread... maybe...
Here you go @McCreed
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor Davies
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Thanks, but no linky...
Should be a little thing to click at the top right of the quote, but here you go: https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...d.php?p=212983
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Ahhhhh, I did not know that...Quote:
Originally Posted by dozymuppet
Now I've learnt something else today - Thanks!
Here's how I've made my most recent neck pockets. As the necks have all been different heels and configurations etc. They're all pretty much one off, so no need for permanent templates.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9765d4a25a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bc7a82cbb6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d02d92041b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bac1b25a22.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a9c5ce95f1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...782ffa33af.jpg
@BD - In the fourth photo down, I'm glad to see I'm not the only one that draws arrows on their router to remember which direction the bit is spinning!
That's what I've been thinking, i.e. no one-size-fits-all template is really going to work. I hadn't thought about your approach though. I was more thinking of making a new MDF template for each neck I work with (if I don't have a fit-for-purpose one available... which eventually I should...).Quote:
Originally Posted by Bakersdozen
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It's totally worth making fit for purpose templates if your going to be working with the same neck heels over and over. In my circumstance these were also known straight edges, so I could bank on the routes coming out true. Why try and file a straight edge when there are already several looking at me [emoji1787]Quote:
Originally Posted by dozymuppet
Same principal for my permanent P90 template. The fugly black one in the first photo. It's all square edges, just pieced together. looks akward, but it works a treat. Never bothered to even trim down the sides haha but I've used it a number of times as is.
And the tele templates in the same photo, I just printed them out 100% scale and glued onto MDF scrap. Then hogged the majority and filed to the lines.
You know it home boy! Reminds me I also need to write " be calm be steady " somewhere on there too [emoji23]Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Also "eh, that'll glue back on"Quote:
Originally Posted by Bakersdozen
Quote:
You know it home boy! Reminds me I also need to write " be calm be steady " somewhere on there too
LOL!!!Quote:
Also "eh, that'll glue back on"
I have some round-over routing to do soon which I've not done before (until some test pieces yesterday).
All my routing experience has been "internal" like pickup routes etc, so outer edge stuff has my anxiety up a bit. (no pun intended)
I really, really, really can't afford any stuff ups or tear out on this project, so I'll keep practising! I'll probably end up with every spare scrap of wood in my shed with rounded edges!
If you can find some with similar grain and then more specifically grain orientation - then you'll get in the ballpark for which direction(s) you need to use.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Attachment 41115
I'm sure you understand the theory, but practice is where it pays off.
I don't think tear out is too much of a problem on a round over bit - it's more burning, which is easily cleaned up with some sanding. What are you working on? Guitar related? Huh, huh?
I should have been more specific as I was thinking about having to route across the grain (end grain) but didn't say so in my last post.Quote:
I don't think tear out is too much of a problem on a round over bit - it's more burning, which is easily cleaned up with some sanding. What are you working on? Guitar related? Huh, huh?
I've seen videos about the climb cutting (and another similar technique called bump cutting). I did some more playing around today and have a better idea on how to go about what I want.
As for the project, not a guitar but a 1 x12 pine speaker cabinet. I'm still waiting on a couple of bits & pieces, but will post the progress once it's started.
Glue ith thertainly convenient, but thitcheth are tho much more thatithfying in my exthperienth. Oh. You meant for the wood. My mithtake.Quote:
Originally Posted by ross.pearson
Oh they work just fine with timber... drift stitches. just drill some holes in either piece of timber and join with cable ties :p.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ig0r
Last bit of action for 2021, rough contouring and beveling.
https://i.imgur.com/dI3YusO.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/i0Ow6ra.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/Zu7ixM7.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/M2HcUsm.jpeg
Had almost given up on this one, but thought I better give it a bit of attention. I reckon I've now got some wind in the sails again.
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Wow! That grain makes it look like stone!
And that upper horn is farking radical!
This is sick! Love me some wood grain natural bods.Quote:
Originally Posted by dozymuppet
I must address my projects list….next year…….maybe….if the universe allows…possibly.
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Looking great Dozy. That upper horn looks dangerous!
Thanks doods
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Out of curiosity, Are you going to do a reshaping on the front of that neck pocket?Quote:
Originally Posted by dozymuppet
For my sense of aesthetics, that is the only bit that doesn’t really flow for me like the rest of your shaping work.
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Yeah, I'll probably shape it for a curved plate, or bushings.
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I vote for bushings. I've retrofitted a few of my previous builds, and used them on the last couple of newer builds. I don't think I'll ever go back to plates again.Quote:
Originally Posted by dozymuppet
They even make a difference in the feel of a standard neck pocket IMO. A neck plate can add 1.5-2mm, and that can be a lot in this game.
Yeah 100% with you on that McC. It’s a planned renovation on a couple of my prior builds, Both the Korean Deluxe and the TLTH will be getting a round off, neck heel re-shape, Stainless Steel anchors and a top to bottom taper.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Perhaps not a lot of obvious progress, but finessed contours, drilled post holes, drilled wire access, and slightly angled the neck pocket for TOM.
https://i.imgur.com/Qf3XT4Y.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/U1xTlPN.jpeg
Thought I had everything I needed, but I need some short neck screws (whether I go with curved plate or bushings).
Looks good! Is cutting down a set an option? Dremel, sander, hacksaw?
Probably, but I don't want to ;P
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Think I'm going to mix up some homebrew tru-oil this weekend.
Not sure if I'll do boiled linseed or pure tung oil yet, but at the moment am thinking 60/30/10, being oil/poly/white spirit.
Interested to see how that goes. Proper finishing has been the biggest PITA for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by dozymuppet
I think it's Bakersdozen that has a successful recipe for DIY Tru Oil, so maybe he'll weigh in.Quote:
Originally Posted by dozymuppet
FWIW, I experimented with it a few years ago and started with the mixing ratio I'd commonly seen in forums of equal parts BLO, Poly, Turps. For whatever reason it just didn't work for me. Compared to the genuine Tru Oil (which I A/B'ed it with) it took longer to set, and the build-up took longer also.
It was at that point I played around with variations in the ratios, but still no joy. IIRC, Bakersdozen uses/used a different kind of BLO than I did, so maybe that was the key. Dunno.
This was around the time I started using a spray gun for all my finishes, so I never revisited the homebrew TO thing. Hopefully you have better success.
Also, hopefully I have correctly named Bakersdozen and not dropped him into something he knows nothing about!
EDIT:
After having a quick look around, I thought it worth mentioning that Pure Tung Oil (no added driers) takes a long time "dry", but then again so does BLO.
Thanks McCreed. Yep, the drying time is what I'm mostly worried about. I've had a look around for things like japan driers, but so far not finding much easily accessible.
The main reason I'm even bothering with the idea is the relative difficulty sourcing Tru oil at the moment.
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I'm also considering trying this new product: https://www.timbecon.com.au/walrus-oil-furniture-finish
"It’s made of polymerising Safflower oil, tung oil, hemp seed oil with a hint of lime for freshness."
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I didn't realise there was a shortage, but I guess there's not much that hasn't been impacted by the pandemic.Quote:
The main reason I'm even bothering with the idea is the relative difficulty sourcing Tru oil at the moment.
My only concern about the Walrus Oil would be that it is described as a "penetrating oil" rather than a "drying oil" despite using the the word polymerising. I find their information confusing.
A true penetrating oil (eg: pure tung oil) will not give the same finish as ones that are membrane finishes (eg: polyurethanes).