Well done. Was it a good work out?
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Well done. Was it a good work out?
It was. I had to split it over two days...
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And this is how the 'banana' guitar got its name.Quote:
Originally Posted by dozymuppet
We're heading into lockdown in Perth, so I got my wife to rush to the BGS for a jigsaw and a plunge router. Wouldn't want to be stranded without...
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A dinosaur one? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by dozymuppet
Attachment 40241
https://i.imgur.com/RgHzxTR.jpg
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I know. I'm sorry but it's been a trying day.
Just got myself a new palm router. My cheap Katsu (a Makita copy) has gone missing in the garage, so I got a proper Makita along with a separate plunge base for it. Just feels so much nicer to work with than the copy.
I'll have to wait until I'm a grown up to buy Makita. For now I can only justify Ryobi.
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Little bit of finessing to go, but I'm thinking something like this.
https://i.imgur.com/Xz06LuK.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lUhdvBZ.jpg
Trying to get the right balance to hint at some straight lines, but always with a curve.
Decisions, decisions...
https://i.imgur.com/xihtN7L.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KEIWX97.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mIg5eez.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/pa6yTCd.jpg
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It's growing on me
I like the flow of the wood grain pattern better in the first and third picture!
I'm leaning towards the first one myself. Much debate in my household though [emoji23]
Here's the Paulownia backside:
https://i.imgur.com/2BEo0d7.jpg
They all look kinda groovy, but I seemed to gravitate towards the last two. It's an interesting project:D
I don't think you could miss with any of those. They all look stunning compared to my pine efforts.
rob
2 and 4, with the grain pattern spreading forwards, look wrong to me. Out of 1 and 3, I prefer 3, probably because it's lighter in colour. If you aren't going with a natural finish, then you've got more staining options with the paler wood.
Haysoos!!Quote:
Originally Posted by dozymuppet
OK, I need to ask how you achieved that with such an even result?
I like 2 and 4, because they're unusual, and the cross grain pattern goes out toward the points.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Having said that, I still prefer 1 and 3. I think you need to sand 1, to see the difference between it and 3, and to get rid of the distracting chalk, etc. I'd hazard a guess, and say 1 is a good indication of how the finish will end up - I love silky oak (typically found in Northern NSW, and Queensland. I have a dining setting made from it, and the pattern is kind of similar, but with much smaller markings, so maybe this is indeed She-Oak (which I've never seen in slab form).
Here's a chair, which has varieties of different cuts giving different aspects to the figure.
Attachment 40269
It's not perfect, but... I drew a line around all sides, and worked on each corner, keeping the saw line straight on each side of the corner, and working around a bit at a time until the corners met in the sides. The blade wandered/drifted occasionally, but overall I was able to keep the line, and meet in the middle in a way that I think is "good enough".Quote:
Originally Posted by HarmonIser
bloody great effort!Quote:
Originally Posted by dozymuppet
Number 3 it is. Man I hope this works...
https://i.imgur.com/FaZe8o6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Js1rav7.jpg
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It works just fine.
Some router action from last weekend.
https://i.imgur.com/wropR9m.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/u4soEuI.jpg
More to go, but my first try at plunge routing gave me plenty of learning. Glad I was being very conservative with my line, because it bit a couple of times. I want to take another pass at the top with the router, then tidy it up with a file/rasp before routing the the bottom. I need to head to Timbecon on the weekend to buy a couple of new router bits, specifically pattern-following flush bits. Probably 1/2" and 1" depths. I've also ordered pickup and neck pocket routing templates from Stewmac, because that will be repeatable (as opposed to the body shape).
I need to sell some other shit to justify these current outlays I'm having to make...
Freehand routing is difficult. I still make a MDF template even if it is a one off, then use it with a pattern following bit to shape the real wood. I might see you at Timbecon!
You're probably very right. As I'm looking at the next two shapes I'm considering, it's probably a false economy to think not making a template will save me much time.
Yep, a template and pattern following bits certainly makes it a more enjoyable experience.
https://i.imgur.com/M453ufX.jpg
Had to compensate for a couple of freehand errors, so it will probably be about 8mm shorter than originally planned. But happy with that. So far.
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Looks good. Great that using the router was "more enjoyable".
The before and after photos speak for themselves. Looking good.
Progress (and lots of new bits and pieces bought to get to this point).
https://i.imgur.com/3rP04Mj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VzMutoz.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AVdL2UD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qtOfIEv.jpg
Not really happy with the forstner bit I got, as it's got about a 5mm pilot, which could get you into trouble.
A few bits to tidy up, including the extra hb ears, but overall I'm happy with where it's at. Until I realise I still have to deal with power and control cavities.
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Looking good. How were the routing templates?
When I realised I could use double-sided tape to keep them in place instead of clamping, they were great!
The neck one was interestingly very tight on the sheoak for a PB neck heel, but almost loose with the paulownia on the St Vincent.
I also accidentally took a chunk out of the neck template acrylic, because I didn't let the router stop spinning before lifting it out. Fortunately, it's at the top of the template, so no harm done, other than cosmetic.
Nice work. Plenty of love bites filled in my templates mate. Either dust and superglue or timber mate and superglue does the trick. And then sand back or scraped flush accordingly.
Nice work. Removing wood with a drill saves a bit of routing effort, but if you want a nice flat bottom (and who doesn't?), then doing the last bit with the router is one of the few ways you are going to do it.
That's looking great Dozy! I'm a almost bit jealous as I still haven't taken the scratch build plunge yet.
TBH, I'm currently lack the motivation and confidence to jump in, and I've taken a vow of abstinence from building anything new.
For now I'm focusing on revisions of previous builds, plus I just don't need any more guitars (he said after buying that Squier Tele and modding the crap out of it!). :o
Not much progress this week, but I did get some new toys
https://i.imgur.com/TaHvzhV.jpg
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Love the Shinto etc.
I am looking at my old Surform plane to do my SG edges.
Maybe nobody remembers them. It has been on my shadow board for 50 years.
I remember them. They're still around. I've got a small rounded edge one.
I used a Shinto rasp for the body carve and also the neck carving as well as a Surform. The Surform is definitely more comfortable to hold but doesn't take as much material off. It worked well for levelling.
The Shinto rasp makes your fingers/hands a bit sore if you hold the non handle end for any length of time, so I found using gardening gloves worked well. Super piece of kit though and the fine side smooths it out surprisingly well.
What was the other thing in the photo? Looks like an industrial flick knife!
It's a kataba pull saw. Comes in non-folding version, but there was a sale and I thought this one looked too cool.
It's also a 0.6mm cutting edge, and has 17 tpi, the same as a fret saw.
Hey Dozy the guitar is coming on well, looks great.
Love the Kataba. Been on my wish list for a while now, but I'll have to make do with my el-cheapo dovetail pull saw for the time being.
rob