BEST signature ever!!!!:DQuote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
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BEST signature ever!!!!:DQuote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Not fiddly at all IMO. Not sure if you're talking about the same thing, but Dan Erlewine has a video where he uses one to do a vintage G-style tapered headstock.Quote:
I want to get one of those Safe T planer gizmos for taking material off the back of my scarf jointed headstocks.
Are they fiddly to use McCreed?
No, no spares. And honestly I haven't run it enough to the point where the cutters need sharpening or replacing.Quote:
Does the one you got come with spare blades?
Also, each cutter has two cutting edges, so it can be rotated when one side goes dull.
Now... I vaguely recall contacting McJing Tools about replacement cutters (which they don't stock). However, if memory serves me right (could be a big if) they said the Stew-Mac cutters will fit their model. I also think I got some info about this on the ANZ Luthiers Forum (ANZLF).
I'll have to re-research that to be safe...
Possibly, but I never thought about it or how it would need to be set up. I reckon a jig can be made for dang near anything if one is so inclined.Quote:
Would it be appropriate as a jointing tool as well, if you had a dead square drill press platform?
My plan is to make a joiner by inverting my router and making a jig for that.
Lastly...
Yeah, sorry Robin.Quote:
Sorry for highjacking your thread Robin.
I feel extra bad because we're discussing power tools in a thread that's all about a guitar being built using all hand tools! D'oh!!!
Maybe @McCreed you could start a Safe-T planer thread and we could babble and drool over there [emoji16]
Hah! I'm not sure I have any expertise on the topic, and AFAIK, I'm the only member that has one so far! :oQuote:
Maybe @McCreed you could start a Safe-T planer thread and we could babble and drool over there
So far..you have piqued interest from myself and @FrankenWashie ..Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
TBH I've been eyeing one off for a while now, just need to justify all the things I can utilise it for. And the McJing option is much cheaper than buying thru StuMac
The rotary disc thingy with the three cutters that you buy from StewMac yeah?Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
https://mcjing.com.au/safety-planer.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
As BD posted, yes, but not from Stew-Mac. The SM one is about $81AU plus $24-$75AU shipping depending on type of postage.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
McJing model is $60 + 15 Express post (only post option). Mine arrived in at my door in QLD in under 24 hours from time I ordered!
Oh dear. McJing are 15 minutes drive from my office......😳🤔Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
We know what Frankie is doing this weekend [emoji28]Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
I just bought a set of rotary sanding arbours for my drill press from Carbatec, who are only 5 mins drive from my office. I’m basically stuffed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bakersdozen
HahaQuote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
I made some template following Sanders (robo Sanders) for my drill press and a base with bearing for them to go into. To avoid sideways torsion on the press.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3dfba0bca0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1e4365e83b.jpg
Great and very interesting reading thanks Robin. Fantastic work on the body. Makes putting a kit together seem like child's play after reading this..;) Looking forward to seeing the end result!
No worries guys, I am reading with interest and much envy.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
@Rodc
Thanks Rod, but skill level is no more than required to make a nice kit. You just have to be a stubborn Luddite with too much spare time.;)
Lol.! I’m sure skill comes into it somewhere Robin..😉
Finally fine enough here in Brissie to get a bit of work done. So I’ve been a bit busy.
First off was to cut out where the pickups and the control cavity are going to go. Because of the body construction that means I only have to cut out the top layer of pine.
Attachment 39329 Attachment 39330
I can now use the top layer as a template for roughing out the locations for the wiring in the middle section.
Attachment 39331
Then cut it out
Attachment 39332
Then .........
Seeing as #20 is a bit of a bitza I am undecided whether to stain or paint. I’m thinking of a bit of a rustic look, so I thought that I would stain her first, see how she looks and if I don’t like it I will then just paint over it.
So I thought that either way I would stain inside the chamber so the pine behind the “f” hole would not look so stark.
For those of you who are still confused at this madness this is how it works……
This is inside the back of the guitar (Layer 1). Notice how the stain really shows off my horrendous chisel work on the chamber. Hopefully the ugly part won’t be visible to the casual observer.
Attachment 39333
On top of that is the ply section (Layer 2) which has the chamber cut out and also the wiring routing.
Attachment 39334
Then finally the front of the guitar (Layer 3). The part that hides all my crappy workmanship.
Attachment 39335
Then you glue the whole lot together. I’m not sure but I think some ancient Greek philosopher once said “You can never have too many clamps”. But if he didn’t, he should have.
Attachment 39336
I can now start the final shaping and actually do a mock-up build to see if all the bits and pieces are in their rightful places.
Cheers guys
rob
“I’m not sure but I think some ancient Greek philosopher once said “You can never have too many clamps”. But if he didn’t, he should have.”
That is commonly attributed to Irwinocrates though many believe it may have been an earlier mentor Besseyokoulos.
“Then finally the front of the guitar (Layer 3). The part that hides all my crappy workmanship”
There is a school of thought that says “Out of sight, out of mind”
if’n they can’t sees it, then t’aint thur!
@Frankie
Unfortunately Irwinocrates will only get one mention in my epitaph. Although I did find him very useful.
@Cliff
Thanks Cliff, my obsession doesn't seem half as bad now.
Looking so great!
Thanks BakersD
Just a quick update today.
I managed to get a mock build done to make sure I’m still heading in the right direction. The neck pickup location was a bit of a compromise as it is does not match the position of either the neck pickup on a Tele or the middle pickup on a Strat. At this stage I am not overly concerned as fundamental harmonics only apply to open strings, right?. I HOPE! Lol.
Attachment 39412
Still a bit of work to be done on the body. Final shape is OK but I need to work on access to the higher frets, the transition between the neck and body and do some comfort cuts. Unfortunately belly and forearm cuts are out of the question because of the chamber, which probably only leaves a “lap” cut. But I will have to be careful not to get too close to the control cavity when doing that one.
Still undecided on a final finish. I will stain first and then decide whether or not to paint. If I go with a stain I will probably not use a pickguard, however if I decide to paint I will fashion a Tele-esque guard out of a standard T-kit one I have handy.
Cheers guys
rob
And a lick of paint covers all sins...🤫Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Hopefully I will have enough paint. lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fretworn
Another quickie.
Before I go too far down the sanding route I thought I had better get the neck pocket/heel problem sorted.
I contoured the neck pocket for better access to the 24th fret and also reshaped the heel of the neck a tad to make it a bit more aesthetically palatable.
This shows the reshaped neck pocket. I could have positioned the screws a bit better, but I had drilled them before actually deciding how I was going to reshape the pocket. Planning 101 – FAIL!!
Attachment 39459
These two shots show the reshaped neck heel and the fit into the pocket. This is still in the rough state but I feel that I can probably live with it once I clean it up a bit and add filler here and there.
Attachment 39460 Attachment 39461
As O’Reilly often said “a lick of paint, a lick of paint”. Those old enough to remember Fawlty Towers will get it. (Thanks Fretty for reminding me of those classic shows.)
That's it for now, lots of shaping and sanding to be done before the next update.
Cheers guys
rob
Finally able to get back to the guitar. I had to have a break as I stuffed up the string-through ferrule holes. Not sure what happened as I have done this several times already with hand tools and have been quite pleased with the results but for some reason this time it just went wacko!
I had 2 options, a) recess out the dodgy ferrule holes and replace with a piece of wood or b) buy one of those “string through ferrule block” thingies. At the time I had decided to stain the guitar so I opted for the ferrule block. I would have loved a solid brass one but budget (yada, yada, yada) meant a cheap chrome Chinese one instead.
Attachment 40095
It pains me to post this photo, but it is what it is. Ugly
Attachment 40096
Out with the chisels and the ferrule block is in place
Attachment 40097
I also drilled the hole for the output jack.
I have also discovered, after a mock build, that the action will be too high.
I have 2 options again (sigh) a) shim the neck pocket or b) shave a mm or 2 off the top of the guitar. I have spent a fair bit of time shaping the pocket and the neck and a shim would would mean more work so I have decided to plane a couple of mm of the top of the guitar. Haven’t used a plane before, what could possibly go wrong?
But at least I am back into it, something for which my sanity is very grateful.
Cheers guys
rob
The ferrule block doesn't look too bad at all from where I'm standing.
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Thanks DM, it was better quality than I was expecting, but it doesn't have the mass that the solid brass ones have. But I guess that a single string ferrule doesn't either.
Thanks Collin, the pine sections are cut from a sheet of 18mm laminated pine and the ply is 12mm AA grade Marine Ply. Not sure where you are located but if you are from Oz it was all purchased from Bunnings.
Tip: Choose the pine sheets carefully, some are quite warped and when all glued together the stresses could cause the ply to delaminate. I found that out the hard way. lol.
rob
I have been quite curious about these details. thanks so much for sharing.Quote:
Originally Posted by robin
I have a spare neck and am very keen to go down to the BGS and get my share of fun stuff.
My next build will kick off 1 sept 2021. and im counting the days
No probs Sam, glad to be of some help. I guess that's one of the reasons for my long-winded build diaries, to encourage people.
Believe me when I say, if I can do it anyone can.
rob
So…. I needed to drop the string height by about 1.5mm so I opted for shaving a mm or 2 off the guitar body so that the bridge sat a bit lower. So out with the plane, lots of wood shavings later and now the string action “should” be alright.
Attachment 40153
I also put a couple of coats of stain on the guitar and I must admit to being rather underwhelmed by the result. It is less than eye catching so it looks like I will go with Option B for the finish which was to paint. If that fails I will sand it back and go for the stain again.
Attachment 40154
If I get lucky with the weather I should have the painting finished early next week.
Cheers guys
rob
I reckon if you mock assembled the hardware you might be more impressed...
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Yeah I tried that DM but it just looks very plain. If all else fails I will go back to that and maybe give it a bit of a relic look to add some character. But I want to try painting first.
rob
I think it looks good. It will look great with the hardware.
And love the cavity hole shape.
Thanks Trevor, I guess I was a bit disappointed because the body was showing some nice grain patterns, but they just disappeared when the stain went on. But never mind, paint will go on this week and I'll decide then what I want to do.
I could still see the grain on the stain pictures. Nothing stunning, but it was there. Clear gloss on top would bring it out more. And there's always the sunburst option. Many a plain piece of wood has been made to look more interesting by adding a burst. You could always give that a go and if you don’t like it, then you can still go with a solid colour.