Yep, 8 to 10 coats is not my final destination at all. This is meant to be a very light interim step, aimed at the top and bottom. But perhaps thinning the Tru-Oil is a better approach. Thanks McCreed \m/
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Yep, 8 to 10 coats is not my final destination at all. This is meant to be a very light interim step, aimed at the top and bottom. But perhaps thinning the Tru-Oil is a better approach. Thanks McCreed \m/
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Wow! 50 coats! I need to seriously reassess my finishing commitment!
I have found that applying oil (I prefer Danish) with 0000 grade wire wool will bring a deep finish fairly rapidly, in about 10-15 coats depending on the wood of course. After my recent abysmal painting efforts I am returning to oil.
Yes, I've not had the fortitude to reach 50 myself, but I've have read many accounts of people who must be far more virtuous than I!
My goal is typically 24 coats but sometimes I've had to reset my count due to "flatulence of the brain", and have probably finished up at 28-30 :o.
I haven't used Danish Oil so can't make any comparison, but there are similarities between it and Tru Oil. Both contain boiled linseed oil, thinners (turps) and some variant of "varnish". I can't say if the Danish has higher build properties than Tru.
BTW you won't find any 0000 steel wool in my shop. I wouldn't get it near any piece of timber I'm working on or finishing. The tiny steel fibres are the work of the devil.
I'll second that. It has its place, but not on any finish. Those steel fibres really dig in and are impossible to see unless you are in really strong light (e.g. outside on a bright day), when they become blindingly obvious. Then you can't unsee them.
Point taken Gentlemen, I was taught this technique by an old gunsmith friend for working on hard walnut stocks and have had no scratch or loose wire issues, maybe not so good on guitar bodies
Both below about 10 coats each
Don’t argue with him folks...
Finish your guns, I mean guitar, however you like.
28 coats of Tru-Oil in, it's now waiting a week before final wet sanding.
To get to 28, I wet sanded with TO and 360grit for the 10th coat, and with TO and 800grit for the 15th. Then a regular wet sand with 800grit after 21 coats.
https://i.imgur.com/YvonS5b.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/y74efgE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jDydJwW.jpg
I'd do some things a little differently next time, but happy with how it's turning out.
Nice! I like that much better than the original. Good job.
Personally, I would have skipped all the wet sanding in the middle and just done it all at the end, but you got a good result and that's what matters.
If you were wet sanding with Tru Oil as a way of grain filling (aka the slurry method) I would have done that very early on rather halfway through as the idea is to allow wood dust to mix into the oil (or commonly shellac) and create a "slurry" that is worked into the grain depressions. Then sanded flat, repeat, sand etc until a flat smooth surface is achieved.
That method can (should?) be done before applying stain/dye because you sand off all the t-oil/shellac from the flat areas between the grain exposing raw timber for stain absorption.
Anyway, well done! Look forward to seeing it reassembled and getting played!
Yeah, the slurry idea I realised wasn't going to work, because I wouldn't be getting wood dust in the mix. So if anything, it was a Tru-Oil slurry, which I think didn't do any harm, but introduced some edge sanding risk.
I think there is a place for wet sanding with Tru-Oil maybe later on, like after 15 or 20 coats. However, if I've done all the grain-filling and sanding sealer work earlier on, then it should become a redundant step.
I didn't use sanding sealer in this case, and then the regular wet sand at 21 coats was primarily to tidy up some surface irregularities that I'd no doubt introduced into the finish.
I am currently doing the same thing as you, stripped of the poly with my heat gun.... I had access to a thickener machine with diamond blades which removed 2mm across the back and it took 1kg of the weight so far ! Wow... the body now weighs 2kg which is getting down to where I want it... with the belly & arm scoop taken off should be perfect
Woah, that's an impressive weight saving. How does the output jack positioning look after that? I reckon if I'd taken more off the back, it might have looked a bit lopsided.
It looks really good on mine, luckily the jack was a little more towards the front so it now looks dead center... I will put a pic up for you soon
Cool. Would love to compare.
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Jack Pic... you can see its pretty center, its coming along really great
Attachment 39243Attachment 39244Attachment 39245
Very nice work. Also, the grain on the ash they use for these is so nice, right?
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Here we are, wet-sanded up to 2000, micro mesh pads 4000 and 6000, then one Meguiars Ultimate Compound polish.
https://i.imgur.com/3iQzJh6.jpg
There are a few unfortunate sand-throughs, but nothing that the 3-feet view will notice. I may go over it with another polish, but otherwise this ready for reassembling.
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Noice! Very glassy look to it. Great work!
Looks great.
That looks amazing!
Nice finish dozy!
Wow that looks awesome!
Just weighed the body before I start reassembling, and somehow it still weighs pretty much what it did at last weigh-in: 2.27kg. This is after staining and 28 coats of Tru-Oil.
All of the previous measures were during a long hot dry spell. Then we had a fairly humid period while it was curing, then dry again when I sanded and polished.
Very curious.
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Also, bought a cheeky little 15W amp for the garage. $40 off Marketplace. Very impressive little package. The drive channel with the mids dropped gives me some very happy early 90s metal feels.
https://i.imgur.com/emvDftx.jpg
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Finally done(ish).
I really need to work on my soldering. This was a real challenge. It was possibly compounded by working with previously factory-soldered components and whatever they used, but I really struggled with desoldering, the output jack, and then grounding to the volume pot. I ended up buying another output jack just so I had a clean start.
Anyway, it works, and I'm happier with the guitar than when I started. The only change I'm likely to make is a creme pickguard, which is en route as we speak.
https://i.imgur.com/SATA7O8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kQseh78.jpg
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It's quite a cheeky profile now
https://i.imgur.com/j21VdDg.jpg
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Very nice Dozy! You done a great job on that finish.
I bet it's a noticeable difference in the weight too.
The factory solder would be lead-free as required under industrial environmental laws. It has a higher molten temperature than leaded solder and can be harder to work with for hobbyists. However at this time it is still legal for hobbyists to buy and use leaded solder.
I don't know what your using for a soldering iron, but something with a bit of grunt like a 48-50 watt station will make working with lead-free solder easier.
I'll be interested to see the new pickguard. I think the contrast will look good (I would have gone with white pearloid, but I always say that :o)
Cheers
I literally had both a creme and a pearloid in my cart, and then thought "get out of my head, McCreed"...
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Nice work, Dozy. For what it’s worth I think it looks good with the current pick guard.
Looks great. I like the black pick guard as well.
Nice work DM. The contouring and finish have come out really well.
Make that 3 for the black 'guard ;-)
Thanks all. I'm totally happy with the black, but I just have this feeling the creme will make it stand out in other ways.
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Outstanding work DM. Totally worth all the effort I’d say
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Hey! Top job! Id be sending artist guitars a link to this thread!!!
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