Haha! Yeah, sure. I'm sure I'll need something else to do while I'm waiting for something to dry.Quote:
Originally Posted by OliSam
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Haha! Yeah, sure. I'm sure I'll need something else to do while I'm waiting for something to dry.Quote:
Originally Posted by OliSam
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Hard to tell the difference in the photo, but a bit more depth after sanding back again, and restaining with a very very slight fade to dark on the edges.
https://i.imgur.com/71LPiyF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/EIos55h.jpg
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That's going to look beatiful when you're done mate!
Now you've got me thinking about one of those for myself... D'oh!!!
Looking Great Dosy.
Bro, this is serious gear now. That top is rippling, the match is fantastic and what you are doing with it is sublime. I can’t wait to see this with all its gear on.
G’day, tell me, because I can’t find it in the thread, what the stain is and what shade they call the blue?
Thanks.
In have several different shades of the blue leather dye to use on a swamp ash body and they have all been very dark.
Cliff, they're U Beaut water-based dyes. Green Black base, then Blue. Both diluted to something like 5 or 6 parts water. Very easy to work with.
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Cool, thanks, I have some, I will give it a go when I get home.
Funny how different things are in AUS. I know what avro means, but why do people wear more than one thong?Quote:
Originally Posted by king casey
Flip flops mate. In NZ they’re called jandals.Quote:
Originally Posted by fender3x
Ahh! No need to wax first then.
In Miami flip flops are called "chanclas" which is a Spanish word derived from the sound they make.
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The top is looking amazing 👍
Ready to clear coat. Decided to go with a darker tone of the blue on the back. Laid down a black base, and went over that with a couple coats of blue. Got a bit of texture running through now.
https://i.imgur.com/A5RISlZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/BeIfP6E.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/S3ExwiC.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JZvTpEC.jpg
For the neck, I'll keep it natural, but I've ordered some headstock veneer to give it a similar effect to the top.
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Your binding cleaned up nicely.
What are you planning for the neck?
Currently thinking about either tinting the poly with some walnut stain, or a very light stain then poly. The neck is mahogany, so it will have a bit of colour, but I reckon it will need a little bit of assistance. The U beaut cedar dye is a bit boring, but a dash of orange or red should bring it alive.
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First coat of home brew poly.
https://i.imgur.com/Wkv0Tqb.jpg
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That is very good work DM.
Can't offer any advice on the neck as haven't done a 'hog neck yet.
Grant
Here's mahogany neck I did with just Tru Oil:
Attachment 39802
I know the colour in mahogany can vary quite a bit, but I love the colour on this one.
I do like the feel of Tru Oil on a neck, but I've since come to like satin poly more. If I were doing it now, I think I might do a few coats of Tru Oil then do a satin poly over it. Maybe that's an option for you also.
edit:
BTW, I'm suffering major envy over that blue quilt! Noice!!!
Oh hi, it's been a while...
Been fart-arsing around with the headstock, but it's annoyed me so much that I put this project down for a long time.
Over the last week I got stuck into sanding and polishing the body though. Here is what will keep me going.
https://i.imgur.com/VPvxi82.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XhSgw4C.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3Dnxlyj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GhuPal9.jpg
Wet sanded 320, 400, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000
Micro mesh 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000
Meguiar's Ultimate Compound x 3
Meguiar's ScratchX x 2
Bowden's Carnauba Body Wax x 2
Bowden's Fully Slick x 1
(Hat tip to ozzbike).
I'm in love again.
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The whole thing looks great, but that top is absolutely stunning! Nice work Dozy.
Thanks mate.
Also, McCreed's Homebrew Poly x 50
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Hah! I wish I could take credit for it, but it was just something passed down to me by others!
It obviously worked for you, so that's a good thing!
That has come up a treat. Well done.
I’m lost for words as to how good I think this looks.
... what are your headstock issues?
The out-of-the-box headstock shape that comes in the kit doesn't give much room to emulate the guitar's inspiration, so it felt a bit half-arsed when I first tried, then tinkered, and then tinkered again. So I've ended up de-pointing it, and hoping it will still look somewhat balanced overall when assembled.
Then, because it also doesn't come with matching veneer, I played around with a non-quilted veneer, and tried to get the stain to emulate the body top. I learnt a lot about applying a headstock veneer, but it really didn't match. So I had the joy of stripping it back.
I've since tried to match it to the back of the body. The colour is not quite there (should have done it at the same time as the body). So I'm either going to persevere, or strip it back again and go with the natural look I probably should have done to start with.
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Hey Dozy. Hopefully I'm not piling on to your head-ache-stock, but I just had a look at page 1;post #4 to see the original headstock shape. Have you put the tuners on and checked the string alignment from the nut to the bass E tuner post?
It looks like it will be very left of centre in that photo.
Hmm, good question. I'll have to investigate when I get home tonight.
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Body looks fantastic, that's a really nice piece of veneer.
I'd agree with McCreed that it looks like the strings will end up with a slightly splayed out look. It''s a shame they don't provide an undrilled paddle headstock for this kit.
Dammit, that's a fair distance...
https://i.imgur.com/XhGVWmn.jpg
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And the top E.
It's just going to look a bit Gibsony.
Yeah, not quite as bad, but a shallower nut groove will make it potentially a problem.
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Perhaps lucky I got a graph tech nut...
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On Gibson-style nuts, I do one of two things on the D & G strings, depending on whether I'm cutting a completely new nut or work on an existing nut. For a new nut, I cut the slots on an angle the same as the string will follow to the post; for an existing nut, I file a slight flange on the headstock end of the string slot. Either of these methods help with tuning stability by allowing a smoother path for the string to move through.
However, I'd be dubious of angling that low E slot that much to accommodate the tuner post. I think the end of the slot would finish up dangerously close the end of the nut, leaving it susceptible to chipping or breaking.
It may be just fine with straight slots. At least nuts aren't too expensive if you need to try a couple of options.
How does the treble E look IRL? The original photo looks like it will run pretty straight.
Hmm, maaaaybe not as bad as initially thought
https://i.imgur.com/XXqaLyD.jpg
What's happening with this build dozy? No updates recently.
And, no pressure mate... It's just that the body came up so beautifully, I was excited to see it all together. Like I said though... no pressure!
Waiting for the neck to cure at the moment. Also thinking about wiring it up (but really just avoiding the disappointment of my soldering inexperience).
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Ah yes, the waiting game! I forgot you hadn't finished the neck as of your last update. That explains the pause...Quote:
Originally Posted by dozymuppet
As for soldering, you've been steadily "tooling up" with your builds, what do you have for soldering tools? Just a on/off soldering "stick" or a station with variable heat?
Nothing wrong with a simple stick provided it's got enough grunt, however it's nice to be able to crank it up or down as needed.
Also, a lot of DIY soldering jobs go sideways when soldering grounds to the back of pots because of an under-powered iron or inappropriate tip. Good wattage and a chisel tip make a HUGE difference in how neatly (or not) those connections finish up. IMO, you can't beat a 4mm chisel tip for those jobs.
Of course, like anything, there's no substitute for practise and it's often one part of guitar building that many don't take the time to do.
This is what I have. I suspect it is underpowered for certain applications, and it's not a chisel tip.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/duratech-4...ation/p/TS1620
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Hi Dozy,
that iron should be fine. The needle tip can work well for soldering to the back of the pots, just make sure you place the edge of the tip (a large area) flat to the back of the pot.